Are you familiar with the concept of ‘The Counterfactual City’? The theory of the ‘What If’ City? For me, Dublin is THAT city. I almost ended up living there a few years ago. In fact, I went so far as to rent a flat, secure a job and embark on a relationship with a lovely Dublin “wan” (Dublin, for me, has always proven to be full of romantic possibilities but in an old-fashioned, ‘let’s-go-for-lunch/dinner’ kind of way, rather than the swinging, pan-sexual, adulterous new ways depicted in adaptations of Sally Rooney’s novels. But, love and let love, I say). Circumstances, however, pulled me in another direction (India). Any time I see Dublin on the screen I can’t help but wonder what might have been. So, I was intrigued when I came across an episode of CNN’s Quest’s World of Wonder focusing on Dublin. But, 23 minutes, the entire length of the episode minus fucking annoying ads for Turkish Airlines, hardly does the city justice.
Quest talks about the clichés associated with Dublin but can’t keep himself from walking down well-trodden paths such as Temple Bar and James Joyce’s ‘Ulysses’. In fact, the segment opens with a visit to Temple Bar. He talks of a “new spirit in Dublin” but doesn’t say what signifies that spirit, how it originated and what its future is. Apparently, “Dublin gingerly searches for its post-pandemic purpose” but what was its pre-pandemic purpose? And, no, we don’t get any answers to the question about the post-pandemic purpose. The documentary is punctuated by questions and theories that aren’t backed up.
At the lively Cobblestone pub (where the traditional Irish music is as much of an attraction as the drinks) in Smithfield, an area not far from Temple Bar, Quest gets a quick lesson on the bodhrán and Tomas Mulligan, the owner of the pub, tells him what the ‘craic’ is but there’s no information about the origins of Irish music and its significance in modern Ireland. I would have loved to have known more about how, say, Thin Lizzy were influenced by the music scene of the late 60s and U2 were affected by the music scene in 70s Dublin.
The trip to the Forty Foot promonotory in Sandy Cove, South Dublin, is a welcome departure from the touristy tat of Dublin’s city centre. It’s also an invigorating experience for Quest and I for one, despite numerous trips to Dublin, wasn’t aware of the custom (just goes to show that even little cities have their secrets). Watching Quest take a dip in the Irish Sea with members of The Ripple Effect – part social club, part support group and part swimming club – is an ‘immersive experience’ alright! He’s more man than I’ll ever be. I like my swims in water that’s at least 25 Celsius, preferably in an enclosed space. Over a post-dip coffee and cookie it becomes apparent that the Ripple Club exists so that members can interact with each other (particularly important during the pandemic) and lift each other up emotionally. Not everyone wanted to spend the lockdowns watching Netflix and sexting, thankfully. Restores one’s faith in humanity. Taking the risk of pneumonia in order to offer support speaks volumes about the big hearts of the club-members, a fact underlined over breakfast (at Ernesto’s Café in Rathmines): the Ripple Effect is a reflection of the Irish tendency to support one another (a characteristic summed up by the word “Heart”).
From the shores of the Irish Sea we head back in to town and, unfortunately, another uniquely Dublin cliché. Quest meets James Joyce lookalike John Shevlin for an Irish breakfast (which doesn’t look all that different from an English fry-up). Over a post-breakfast stroll Quest comes to the conclusion that experience helps him “decipher what it feels like to be a Dubliner”. So, what does it feel like? Q doesn’t say. He doesn’t even say if he’s read ‘Ulysses’.
Perhaps my favourite excursion – understandable since I read Medieval History at university – is the visit to the medieval combat training session. Quest rolls up his sleeve, puts on the protective gear and has a go himself. I’m sure he was impressed with the speed, strength (the swords start feeling heavier the longer one wields them) and co-ordination of the participants, since he was on the receiving end. If jumping in to the Irish Sea is one way of quickening the pulse, a bout of no-holds-barred medieval combat is another. I was surprised by how calm everyone was after the bouts; no macho fist-bumping and high-fiving. Over a contemplative conversation we again come across the word ‘heart’ and how it defines Ireland and her ability to accept people and, indeed, to forge the way as one of Europe’s most progressive countries. Very few Western democracies would, in hindsight, have voted for a half-Indian, gay Taoiseach. The contrast with Britain couldn’t be starker, where the tabloid-reading demographic (as well as the Euroseptic “intelligentsia”) voted in a lying, philandering fat fuck. You get the politicians you deserve.
Instead of exploring other parts of Dublin, Quest drives down to Cork. Why not just devote the episode entirely to Dublin? There’s so much that isn’t covered, such as Irish Independence (it’s been 100 years) and Brexit (do the Irish think the Brits are fecking eejits?). Cork itself deserves an entire episode, with Cork native Patrick Fitzpatrick – an actor, comedian and writer – perhaps hosting. I mean, wouldn’t a Cork native do the best job of it? The episode concludes with a visit to Blarney Castle, where both men kiss the Blarney Stone. So, yeah, clichés book-end what is otherwise a short and not nearly informative documentary.
