When I think about Thailand, my mind is filled with vivid images of sunny skies, clear waters, divine food markets(a sensory experience heightened by memories of gorgeously fragrant aromas of spicy curries and Pad Thais) and the smiling faces of locals. I’m beginning to feel that the Thais must be some of the happiest people on the planet! I’ve visited Thailand on two occasions and in both experiences I was left with fond memories and a happy heart. Thailand is one of those countries I could return to multiple times and never get bored of its charm.

The Thai Islands are on everyone’s bucket list, especially if you’re in your GAP year and/or backpacking…or have read The Beach!. Renowned as relaxation and partying spots, the Thai islands’ diverse appeal offers a destination ideal for every traveller, including me. Both trips to Thailand have been part of a long haul backpacking venture; the first time I spent five weeks there and the second, around eight days. During both trips I fell in love with particular destinations, especially Koh Lanta.

Koh Lanta is as close as I’ve come to paradise, to put it simply. It’s an island with my favourite sunset spots, empty beaches, a laidback and peaceful pace, an enchanting Old Town and plenty of nature to motorbike around. I love how some of the island, despite its popularity, has secluded, quieter parts. Sort of a ‘secret air’ inviting the curious to veer off the trodden path.

I’m a ‘beach baby’ with a deep love for sunsets. There’s something magical and tranquil watching the sun go down after a gorgeous day, especially on the beach. The sunsets display every colour of the orange spectrum across the sky, the intensity of the orange colour growing, blending with reds, pinks and even purple, co-existing with the darkening hue of the water – it’s an artist’s dream!

The most prominent beach across the island is Long Beach. As the name suggests, it’s rather long, with lots of resorts, hotels, cafes and restaurants located along it. Despite the tourist-centric commercialisation, I adore Long Beach because due to its size you’ll never find it too busy like the other Thai island beaches. I’m usually able to find a discrete spot with minimal people around. The sand along Long Beach is soft and gentle on the bottoms of your feet, despite the heat. Its waters are transparent and refreshing and feel like the perfect warm bath. With the hot Thailand weather, I tend spent most of my time in the sea rather than on the sand itself.And the best way to describe my time in the water is freeing. I can completely switch off into a calm and sensual mode, batting away any thoughts in my mind and appreciating the refreshing feeling of the water. Deeply ensconced in my bubble, I didn’t really interact with any other tourists on the beach and it seemed most were on holiday keeping to themselves and enjoying the island.Everyone seemed happy in their own little cocoon.

Long Beach has the perfect beach bar to grab a cocktail, smoothie or a bite to eat: San’s Sunset Bar.As the name suggests, the sunset view from here is picture-perfect (as long as nobody is sitting in front of you). The menu was varied with shakes, fresh fruit juices, soft drinks and snacks, such as spring rolls and meals including the classic pad Thai. Prices were affordable, around £1/£2 for soft drinks. The clientele seemed to be people like me, young, in their twenties, relaxing after a day on the sands and enjoying the sunset. I spoke to one of the girls(from the UK by the sounds of it) as she asked what we were drinking, and her friendly energy seemed out of place on this laconic isle. I came across this bar on my first visit and loved the bamboo huts, tables and chairs, sunk steadily into the sand. It had to be one of the first beach bars with sand as floor I can remember visiting before it became the norm around different Thai islands. I guess you could call it ‘sandy chic’? I did like the utter lack of pretention and the lack of clean lines and shiny surfaces, so beloved of Instagrammers and influencers these days. It’s a peaceful spot to spend a few hours watching the sunset or reading a book. I could have happily stayed there all day doing both.

Phra Ae Beach is attached to Long Beach and has a smaller stretch of sand, but a quieter feel and less going on. Despite this, I found it to be quite popular with families and nearby to many restaurants as you walk away from the beach. It was also perfect for accommodation on the second visit, as where we stayed- the Phra Ae apartments were under 10 minutes away.

I randomly came across The Pangea Beach Bar and Kitchen on a wander and I loved it. It wasn’t overly busy and made for a calm afternoon spot to read and people-watch in the sunshine. Plus their fresh juices were delicious! I’m missing drinking endless cups of fresh pineapple juice; it doesn’t hit the same way in the UK because it’s hard to find freshly-made pineapple juice, for a start. The menu varied from soft drinks, including smoothies and juices. to varied cocktails and alcoholic beverages. They also had lots of different food options such as classic pub snacks (chips!) to noodle dishes. The prices were similar to other bars a couple of pounds for drinks. We popped in when it wasn’t too busy and the clientele ranged from young couples to groups of guys. The service was lovely: the bartenders served our drinks with a happy smile, and I could tell they, like the customers, appreciated the quiet beach life, the bamboo-centric décor, comfy beach chairs and bean-bag-like chairs to sit on.

The island also features quieter beaches such as Bamboo Beach, Klong Jak Beach and Kantiang Bay, with accommodation surrounding it.

The best beaches for couples have to be Bamboo Beach and Kantiang Bay because of the privacy, quiet and gorgeous scenery. Bamboo Beach is a lot smaller with shaded areas, whilst Kantiang has a more open stretch of sands. The best beach for swimming is Long Beach without fail because of the warm, clear and non-rocky waters.

I thoroughly enjoyed spending time on Koh Lanta’s quieter side with Bamboo Beach being the top spot. The beaches in the south of the island are best reached via motorbike and you can hire one from your accommodation, local garages or any travel agents. Bamboo Beach has a gorgeous combination of nature and soft sand. Surrounded by masses of trees, including on the sands itself with coconut trees galore and rugged rocks; for those who want to be surrounded by nature, immersed in serene surroundings and aren’t too bothered about bars and shops, this is the spot. A word of warning, although it was nice to swim here, it’s not the best due to its rocky terrain throughout the waters.

Other beaches to pass en route to Bamboo Beach include Kantiang Bay and Klong Jak Beach. Klong Jak looked like a toned-down version of Bamboo Beach, quieter but with stunning views. Katiang Bay was up there with favourite sunset spots, where I caught a golden sunset bouncing off the waters. Unlike Long Beach at sunset where the crowds gather, next to nobody was here, making the sunset a private show, perfect for an evening of romance and passion. The island has a way to fully let yourself be free and embrace experiences and temptations you wouldn’t usually consider. I guess you can say, it’s a way for nice girls to finally live their wilder side.

As I mentioned, motorbiking or scootering around the island is recommended for most visitors, unless you have the budget for a car or to taxi around everywhere. Motor-biking allows you to experience more freely the wonders of the scenery and take in the scents of the nature trail. Bicycles weren’t as common here however, compared to other islands as it’s such a big place.

I stayed in a similar area on both visits, near the Phra Ae Beach, once at Hugs Guesthouse and the other time, at Phra Ae Apartments. This meant a motorbike was needed to see all the best spots.

Hugs Guesthouse was simple and everything you needed in a room close by to a stretch of restaurants and walking distance to the beach. For my first time in Koh Lanta, I liked it as a place to stay, and it was great to point it out the second time I arrived. The hotel had air con and an en-suite bathroom but no complimentary breakfast. However, Phra Ae Apartments I preferred a lot more as for the cheap price of £34 for 3 nights, we had an incredible amount of space, it was clean and close to all the local sights. Plus, the owners at the entrance of the building greeted us each day and helped with any query we had.

A stop popular with tourists is Koh Lanta Old Town as this is a hub for restaurants, cafes and accommodations. The Old Town is reallyjust one strip of road decorated humbly with colourful decorations. There’s also a selection of quaint places to eat and browse. The Old Town was once the island’s main port of trade and I would say the only landmark to see in connection with that is the long pier and the gorgeous view across the bold blue waters and sky.

During both visits to the Old Town, I enjoyed the shops for a mooch. Shops range from stores selling ornaments, ceramics and clothes crafted by locals, to typical shops selling souvenirs. Despite the small size, the town is lovely to roam, buy a smoothie, or eat at one of the local cafes. We ventured to Grandma’s House, a gorgeous, family-run place which only had a few simple, wooden tables and the loveliest owners. I had classic lunch of eggs on toast. The ice cream they served there was homemade.  We couldn’t resist a scoop each. The price was around £1 each. Plus, we spent a while in there playing with the owners’ child as he loved entertaining the guests, despite the language barrier.

It’s no doubt food in Thailand is scrumptious and as one of my favourite cuisines, I could eat Thai food every day and not get bored. The food scene in Koh Lanta matches the quality of Thai food elsewhere with a combination of local restaurants and tourist hotspots offering more Western options. I had my fair share of both and ate like a queen across my trips.

The restaurants I fell in love with in 2019, May’s Kitchen and Utopia weren’t, around on my second visit in 2023. However, the iconic brunch place, The Living Room Cafe and Restaurant was still going strong with an improved menu. This had to be the most popular place I visited on both occasions, especially this year, with a filled-up cafe every time I went in. The cafe serves up a typical Western breakfast with an extensive pancake menu, sandwiches, smoothies and much more, and a delicious-looking baked goods cabinet to take away. The price point here was a little higher with main breakfast meals around the £4/5 mark, whilst baked counter goods were a lot cheaper. The clientele ranged from families with kids, backpacker couples to groups of twenty-something-year-old friends. The service was incredibly friendly, attentive and quick. The décor was simple, modern and pleasing to the eye with wooden tables and high ceilings.

Speaking of Western places, another tourist-loved eatery was Backyard Cafe and Bistro. I dined here based on the recommendation of some digital nomads I know, and it was heavenly. I opted for this peanut tofu bowl and it was incredibly wholesome, finished off with a fresh fruit smoothie.The prices, like the Living Room Café were slightly more expensive, around £4/5 for smoothie bowls and other main dishes. The clientele was similar to the rest of the island, either young backpackers or families. Although during our visit, it was pretty quiet and we only saw a few people. The service was humble, friendly and on point, with lovely staff. I would say the décor had a similar style to The Living Room Café with wooden tables and flooring, and breezy feel.

For dinners, two restaurants particularly stood out: Neng’s Kitchen and Tamarind Restaurant. Both are run by locals and for Neng’s Kitchen, in particular, I had a wonderful experience. The original meal I found was too spicy and the owner of the restaurant (Neng), apologised and brought out a new meal with less spice and it was perfect, probably one of the best meals I had on the island. I was so thankful for his kind gesture and the fact he only charged me for one meal. It goes to show how far the kindness of others goes, and how he cared more about his customer’s experiences with his food than anything else. The prices were pretty cheap here, considering the island’s fame, with a couple of pounds for each meal. And, the clientele ranged from an older couple to other British tourists. The service has to be the best yet considering how the owner went out of his way to suit my taste. The décor may have been simple and probably quickly assembled but the overall experience exceeded expectations.

Tamarind Restaurant proved to be exceptionally busy, probably the busiest place we dined at, with a queue out the door. Although, I can see why, with its rustic-beach aesthetic and delicious menu of inexpensive, local food. The prices were incredibly cheap for the wide range of Thai food on offer, from curries to noodle dishes. Their clientele were all western tourists, young and old, from backpackers to families alike. Considering how busy they were, the service was alert with prompt food delivery and attentive waiters.

Locals are what made island life exceptional as the people in Koh Lanta were friendly and went above and beyond to talk and help us. I have many stand-out moments, the first being in Grandma’s House I loved how this little place wrapped a sense of community around visitors and travellers alike. The prices were rather cheap at around £3 for lunches and fresh juices for 50p. The family-friendly atmosphere is what made me love this place as it was so wholesome and warm. Its décor reflected that with simple wooden tables and chalkboards.

During my second time in Koh Lanta, with my partner, we had a motorbike accident. This happened unexpectedly after a day of driving around the island, visiting the fantastic beaches and wandering around the Old Town. We were about to drive to a dinner location when the accident occurred. My partner bumped the bike onto the kerb and lost control and it skidded across the road, with him taking the brunt of the injuries. In this moment of absolute panic, terror and anxiety witnessing my partner’s injuries, the locals pulled through and I’m thankful for their kindness.

The cafe owner near where we had the accident came rushing out, reassuring us that he would get one of his friends to take us to the hospital. Still in disbelief and shock, we were insistent on not going to one. But I’m very thankful we did, as we didn’t realise in the pitch black the severity of the injuries. My partner needed stitches in his foot! The guy came and collected us, driving us to several hospitals until he found a suitable travel clinic. He waited for the entire time we were in there and drove us back to our hotel, free of charge. We paid him, but he was willing to do it out of kindness which meant a lot in our low moment.

Another lovely local was the lady who owned the apartment we stayed in. Every day, she sat outside on her tourist stall, selling services and arranging excursions. She would greet us pleasantly and make conversation about how we were, especially after the accident when her conversation was even more attentive and concerning.

Can you see why Koh Lanta is marvellous? With its combination of time to relax on the beaches, explore the natural side of life and interact with friendly and wholesome locals, it’s an island I’d happily visit over and over again. I wonder when I go next time how many things change again and if it becomes more developed or will it subtly resist change while charming visitors, old and new alike.

Clear waters, pristine sands and a taste of paradise…that’s what I read about when I was researching the Gili Islands. I couldn’t wait to experience luxury on these little islands near Lombok and to see what the hype was about. Cycling around the island and snorkelling every day sounded like a complete dream.

Although, reality never hits in the same way as a gushing article you read online, or what you heard an influencer opine. Travelling often and to new places, I’ve seen which destinations are overrated and overhyped by travel companies and influencers, and this for me were the Gili Islands. Every article I read and every person I spoke to about Indonesia urged me to go to the Gili Islands. I was thinking about days lapping up the sunshine on the beaches, evenings watching the sunset and experiencing the magical underwater world of marine life.

However, the start of the visit to the islands was anything but dreamy. The downward spiral began with the process of getting to the Gili Islands. I will admit, it may have been my fault for reorganising the Bali and Gili Islands part of my backpacking trip when I heard about Silent Day.  Silent Day is one day out of the year where the entire island shuts down and nobody leaves their houses, as a day of rest to meditate, sort of like a Hindu-Buddhist Sabath. We swapped our days around to arrive in the Gili Islands first and then return and do the second leg of our Bali trip. With many people leaving Bali to escape Silent Day, the ports and boats for the Gili Islands were packed and chaotic. It felt like a cattle market, especially with the blaring sun and a heavy backpack (the less glamorous side of backpacking). At the ports we faced delays and a lack of clarity about when and where to go. All the ingredients for a trip to start on the wrong note.It’s not exactly the chilled, organised and luxurious experience I expected for a honeymoon-style destination. Imagine wanting ultimate peace and being met with chaos.

After a long wait and about an hour- and- a- half long journey, we arrived at Gili Trawangan. For me, the journey wasn’t great as the boat had no air –conditioning and it was rammed and loud, with too many tourists on it. I spoke to the guy next to us because he helped us out at the port, paying for our taxi as I had no cash and there were no ATMs. He mentioned that he does this journey often and it’s never that bad. The weather wasn’t on our side, with a bit of rain but I didn’t mind as it relaxed me after the journey.

Arriving at Gili Trawangan wasn’t what I expected. Lines of horses with carts were at the port’s edge. Had we stepped back in time to a rural dimension? Later on, we were to discover what the rest of the island, away from the tourist strip of restaurants, cafes and spas was like:  unpaved muddy roads lined with locals’ houses and minimal streetlights. Not the picture-perfect postcard vibes. I shook it off and embraced it as I found with most Southeast Asia destinations the rural environment makes it part of the charm. Plus, with a backpacking life, it didn’t shock me as I had seen a lot worse during my three months of travelling.

We walked along and arrived at what we thought was the accommodation we booked, however, the lady who worked there explained it was fully booked and there was no room at the inn. The trip kept springing nasty surprises and we had to book one of the last cheapest places for three times the price! The hotel, Gili Ilalang Village featured very modern rooms with marble flooring and an open-air bathroom, with a communal pool in the centre of all the apartments. It cost £120 for 3 nights in total and for that amount of money, I expected a lot more. The original hotel cost £35 for the three nights so a pretty big price difference! We budgeted an average of £15 per night for accommodation overall and as you can imagine, were sorely disappointed with the cost and outcome of the location.

Breakfast wasn’t included, which I didn’t try as it was a very small buffet of fruit and bread and cost a couple of pounds each. However, there was free use of the pool which we spent a lot of time in to cool off and relax. We didn’t speak to many other guests but did the classic British thing and waved and nodded hello at people. It’s hard when bad experiences taint a destination because I’ll often associate a place with the things that happened.

Regardless of the stressful travel day and unnecessarily added costs, we tried to embrace the rest of the time in the Gili Islands. But I didn’t feel the exciting draw or sensation I had when we were gallivanting all over the beaches on Bali and Padar Island. I felt disappointed at the stretches of dead and damaged coral due to tourism, and the murky water off the shore and the number of boats (they must have been polluting the water, as well as tourists throwing their rubbish in the ocean) To me, it seemed like Gili Trawangan hadn’t been loved and cared for the way I’d expect a paradise island to be. I also expected it to be more built-up than it was, with clear roads, especially as the most popular mode of transport was a bicycle. The rocky paths made cycling difficult, mainly at night given the absence of streetlights.

The feeling of disappointment was high in my Gili Island experience. Maybe it was because I chose the wrong island to stay on out of the three, with Gili Air and Gili Meno being a lot smaller. The other thing which put me off the island was the snorkelling tour. As a prime destination for snorkelling, my expectations were incredibly high, and I expected the experience would be out of this world. But the reality was, in every area we stopped, loads of other boats did too and that meant about 30-plus people in the water. I saw more people’s fins than fish. At times, we did glimpse turtles and cool marine life, but it was overcrowded, with noticeable damage to the coral. The level of tourism there took away from the natural beauty and affected the natural wildlife and anyone’s experience.

On a more promising note, the food scene on Trawangan was tourist-heaven with Instagram-ready brunch places and every type of cuisine that wasn’t Indonesian. From Mexican, Greek to English, the cuisine choices reminded me of a resort holiday, rather than an authentic culinary destination. I would say despite the tourist traffic at the restaurants, the experience I had was overall, positive.

Jali Kitchen made the biggest impact with its packed-out restaurant and delicious Panang Curry (my favourite Thai curry, originating from Penang in Malaysia) giving off a ‘popular for a reason’ appeal. The curry was very similar to trying it in Thailand and Malaysia, however, it was more delicious in Thailand. The restaurant was certainly catered to tourists, serving up an array of Indonesian dishes to typical Mexican food like chilli con carne. The service was incredibly friendly and attentive, despite the mass of crowds. We had waiters coming up to ask and asking to see if we were okay and if we needed anything, whilst waiting for a table to become available. The décor had a complete bohemian look, made of timber material with cushions on the top. They also had dim lighting, and a pool, surrounded with loungers guests could relax on before dining. I didn’t speak to any of the other diners as they were coming out of their accommodation, attached to the pool. They looked like the typical island holidayers in bikinis and loose clothing, young like me in their twenties. Considering the bustling tourist scene, we paid around £12 for drinks, mains and dessert for two people – not bad at all.

The Banyan Tree impressed me the most with its cocoa smoothie bowl and health-inspired menu. The décor in this café was very simplistic with colourful wooden chairs and a modern European interior. What I loved the most however, was their exceptionally bold coloured toilets as it really brought the bright colour holiday appeal into the establishment. The ambience was completely relaxed in here, especially as we sat upstairs. I appreciate the quiet because Gilli T, despite its supposed tranquil nature had a bustling energy to it, removing the overall serenity. The smoothie bowls cost around £2.30 each and drinks were around £1-1.50. The Banyan Tree boasted a vegan-friendly menu featuring fresh fruit-mains to hearty, protein-based breakfast options, such as avocado on toast. The customers were from the same pool as Jali Kitchen, pretty, young and surfer types.

I love how many brunch places had such a focus on super food, such as wholefoods, seeds, greens and organic ingredients. It made us feel wonderful, kick-starting our day on a high with a belly full of quality food.

In terms of cultural and historical sights, Trawangan didn’t have anything significant as the main focus was on being by the beach and experiencing the snorkelling tours. People don’t visit this island to experience temples or historical sights.

Although it wasn’t the greatest experience, arriving on Gili Meno as part of the snorkelling tour was a breath of fresh air as their main beach wasn’t covered with resorts and we could enjoy the tranquil views and clear water. It had a more peaceful atmosphere with a similar natural and residential appeal. I was on the island only for a few hours but wish I experienced a couple of nights here.

The Gili Islands weren’t all bad. Despite some bad luck, over-tourism and disappointment, the time on the island was fun. It’s a holiday place where you simply want to eat, relax and do nothing for a few days. As a backpacker and luxury holiday spot, the food scene was ideal for an “Instagram brunch” or Western food you set your heart on, plus many places for cocktails on the beach. It’s perfect for those who love drinking too with lots of bar crawls (not my scene, however). The majority of the tourists seem to be a combination of Australians, Europeans and a small contingent of English people. I spoke briefly to some on our boat tour but because I wasn’t feeling great, couldn’t appreciate their company too much.

The restaurants across Gili Trawangan all seemed geared to Insta addicts, all interested more in looking cool than genuinely taking an interest in their food and the cultural significance of it, and surfers, especially Helicapitano Lifestyle Cafe with their pillows for chairs and coconut-style smoothie bowls (smoothies in a real coconut).I would say the surfers were a combination of wannabes and those who are regularly in the water. This find was popular with all tourists, mainly young and carefree ones, sipping iced coffees and a “cool-looking breakfast”, meaning its aesthetically pleasing appearance. I couldn’t fully appreciate the vibe here with a sensitive stomach from ‘Bali belly’, but I did manage to try their oat pancakes and they were delicious. The prices were around £4/£5 each for food and drink.

Coffee and Thyme was my favourite café offering dreamy, large pancakes and an extensive menu of fresh juices! Just the health kick I needed before chilling on the beach all day. The décor was simple with dark wooden tables and touches of colour throughout and an open kitchen behind the tables. The café wasn’t as large as I’d imagine downstairs however, and tables were particularly close together, but I didn’t mind as it makes a dining experience more communal.  Food wise, it boasted a gorgeous menu of freshly pressed juices, smoothies and various pancakes, offering something fresh or fulfilling for every customer. This café had similar prices to the other ones I’d visited, charging around £2.50 for food and £1.30 for a drink.

Whilst The Banyan Tree I adored for its chill vibe, with a quieter group of customers and an opportunity to relax with your food. Unlike other cafes, there wasn’t a frantic, rushing atmosphere, with waiters running around trying to ensure food was at the ready for customers. As a huge chocolate fan, their cacao bowl was a brilliant way to enjoy the healthy side of the cocoa taste without feeling sick afterwards. It was rich and packed with fruit and fibre, including chia seeds and chocolate chips.

Dinner-wise, Jali Kitchen had to get a big shoutout and was my favourite spot for being the most popular restaurant on the island and still not overly expensive, especially for vegetarian options. I had a lovely curry, whilst my partner needed some home comfort of chilli. To cool down, a fabulous spot was Gili Yo Frozen Yogurt, although expensive for what it was. This yoghurt shop lets you customise your treat with toppings, fruit, sauces and more.

I can’t provide a fair analysis of the other Gili Islands, Gili Air or Gili Meno as I didn’t have the chance to see them due to sickness and lack of time. Although, during our snorkelling tour from Gili Trawangan, we stopped off at Gili Meno for a bite to eat and a wander. We discovered a local restaurant, Warung Licung Bamboo. The owners here were super friendly and appreciated we showed up, with other minimal customers sitting for lunch. This quaint restaurant was in a large bamboo hut with worn-in wooden tables and bamboo chairs – and one of the cheapest places we ate, costing £1 a meal. The crowd was small with only us and one other couple at the restaurant and I was blown away by the attentiveness of the owner. They served up various food options such as wraps and noodles, to fresh-pressed juices.

The rest of Gili Meno seemed very natural, plentiful in trees and greenery and had a quietness  about it unlike its larger sister island. Although, one thing I did notice was all the dead coral washed up on the shore which made me a little sad. As it seemed quieter and cleaner, I assumed the island was cared for, but that may not have been the case. It would have been great to visit Gili Air, although, with time restraints and lack of desire to, I don’t know how much I missed.

Gili Islands – are they worth it? Overall, I would admit the Gili Islands are overhyped for what they were. When I compare these islands to Bali and the Thai Islands, with similar levels of tourism, those destinations live up to dreamy expectations. Whereas the Gili Islands seem to have all the hype and flashy places to eat, without care for the environment, and the development of safer roads.

Overall, I wouldn’t personally recommend, Gili Trawangan as a place to visit, unless you’re looking to holiday it up in a resort where you can eat lovely food for more reasonable prices and take part in typical water activities and excursions. Yet, for me, it didn’t fulfil my heart the way I hoped, and I left feeling disappointed in the hype of the island.

We eventually ventured out to see what the city was about and to get our bearings on the place. The city’s atmosphere was incredibly relaxed, not overly loud or overly trying to be something it was not, it simply existed how it should. No pretentions, no delusions.

One of the things which surprised me was the quaint and colourful back streets surrounding the city. They were quiet, with local’s homes throughout, featuring many plants and wildlife, such as lizards and too many plants I didn’t know the name of, adding to the natural look. Ideal for a charming mooch-around. It certainly didn’t feel like we were in a big city. I would say for me, it was opposite to Bali as the backstreets had a more residential feel, not built up for tourists.

The most popular area of Yogyakarta is Malioboro, a bustling shopping street and hub for restaurants and markets. I didn’t know what to expect from this street because it wasn’t as busy and buzzing as every blog post had described. The street was beautifully designed, with intricate benches and manicured greenery, reminding me of the roads in Paris. I loved the street’s maintenance and how the city didn’t let tourism, or the local population ruin it. The street did offer a diverse range of shops, from local clothing shops to trinket shops and markets scattered throughout.

We noticed many locals would come to us and urge us to visit the Batik art galleries nearby. I wasn’t aware of this type of art before arriving here and felt obliged and intrigued to see what it was. Batik is an Indonesian technique to create art; they use a wax-resistant dyeing technique on cloths. We did fall into the tourist trap and visited a couple of galleries (to have ignored the galleries would have been rude and, well, ignorant) but there was no obligation to buy anything. The locals working there gave us a free talk about how they create the art, and then we browsed around both galleries. There’s evidence that Batik art originated in the Far East, Middle East, Central Asia and India over 2,000 years ago with examples on caves and linen grave cloths in as far away as Egypt. The process of Batik art involves using melted wax on fabric. The wax is painted on in a certain design and then the fabric is dyed. The areas which have been waxed won’t be penetrable by the dye, leaving a pattern.

I did love how unique the art appeared as it was nothing like anything I’d previously witnessed at a gallery. Batik art had more heart and realism, with a colourful impact. I probably would have bought a piece if I found one which matched my style (earthy and minimalistic). It would have been interesting to do a class in the city because we saw many art tutorials and sessions, from batik art to jewellery making.

I got excited for dinner that night as I found some cheap street food and an incredible meal too – nasi gudeg. This dinner dish, local to Java (the region Yogyakarta is in) and sweet, is made with jackfruit and coconut sugar. Surprisingly, it’s a hot meal, not a dessert or salad. I was sad I tasted this meal on my last few days in Indonesia because I wanted to eat it more than once! The street market, Teras Malioboro, had a couple of stalls selling various local Javanese and Indonesian dishes. It was quiet and local with no other tourists in sight – that’s how you know the food is good. We also found a fancy-looking ice cream shop, The Original Gelato to finish off the meal. You could either sit in or take away and it was pretty cheap, only the equivalent of £1. The selection was simple: chocolate, strawberry and vanilla.

The next day began with a healthy breakfast at Akkar Juice Bar, featuring a smoothie bowl and pressed juice…the preferred breakfast of choice for health-conscious backpackers all over SE Asia! Then, we ventured to the Prambanan Temple, one of the most popular reasons to come to the city. There are two main temples to visit, the Prambanan and Borobudur. We decided to visit the Prambanan as Borobudur was partially shut off due to Covid, and the temples aren’t cheap to visit, around £20 each. The Prambanan seemed more value for money as it was a whole site rather than one temple. It lived up to dreamy expectations as the area was stunning. A ‘dreamy expectation’ meaning something I couldn’t even have thought up as it’s so wonderful!

As Yogyakarta was more residential, it felt slightly more religious than Bali because it wasn’t only for tourists, but mainly for locals. Whereas, I would say Bali was “spiritual” in a hipster-backpacker type way, more about natural living, crystals, tarot reading, and other similar fads.

The Prambanan Temple was built in the ninth century and is the largest Hindu temple complex in Indonesia. The grounds were perfectly manicured, and all the temples reminded me of Angkor Wat in Cambodia; they had that level of majesty with similar design. The main temple impressed me the most as it was iconic, grand and bold, standing out for miles. In terms of specific points of the temples standing out, Within the temples were various statues including the statue of the bull, Nandi. It stood out because it was the only thing, I could see in the pitch black! I couldn’t believe how well-kept the temple was, considering its age. I loved walking around the grounds as the history of these temples always amazes me. I appreciated the age of the property but also how its design is linked with the religion. The plan of the temple complex is a Mandala, a symbol of the Hindu cosmos and it’s divided into three parts. These three parts consist of the base of the temple, the body of the temple and the roof of the temple. The division of these building structures are in harmony with the ancient Hindu Buddhist traditions. As temples go, it has to be up there with one of the favourites I’ve seen across Indonesia, such as Pura Gunung Lebah and the Ululwatu temples in Bali. I also loved how quiet the temple grounds were; it felt like the temples were ours to enjoy fully and in no rush. It also helped us appreciate how serene seeing a temple is supposed to be.

Heading back into the city, we were feeling pretty knackered from the heat and decided to visit Roaster and Bear, a restaurant we read about on many blogs, famous for their ‘bear’ coffee art. We were originally going to have a drink, however, we’d worked up an appetite and needed food. The menu was vast but also specific in the particular dishes they offered. I chose a classic nasi goreng, whilst my partner picked an Asian fried chicken dish. This had to be one of the best nasi gorengs, especially as I’d never had the meat kind and the portions were huge. It’s hard to pin point when a nasi goreng is perfect but for me, it’s a perfectly cooked fried egg, good-sized portion, tomato garnishing and the moreish flavour of the dish. Plus, the hot chocolate with bear art was a lovely addition to the meal. As a fancy-looking place, it wasn’t as expensive as I expected. The décor was very modern, similar to a typical upmarket restaurant in the UK with velvet seating, wooden tables and bear decorations everywhere. The crowd was mostly locals of a younger demographic, lots of girl groups chatting over lunch. The service was lovely, attentive and friendly, an ideal addition to the meal. Outside, the views weren’t what I’d imagine however, as the neighbourhood was a combination of residential and commercial with many work establishments, but not much else going on.

I paid around £2.50 for my meal and my partner the same with drinks costing around £1-2 each. I can imagine if that restaurant was in Bali, it would have been double the cost considering its aesthetic.

Roaster and Bear was attached to the Harper hotel and downstairs featured the exquisite Pistachio Bakery, serving indulgent treats. I couldn’t resist grabbing some cookies for later on, which must have cost around £1-2 each. Sometimes you need some English treats when travelling around! We ventured back to Malioboro to scout the markets. We spent the rest of the day strolling around and browsing, soaking up typical market items, such as souvenirs, handbags, lightweight clothing, jewellery and more.

Our last day in Yogyakarta greeted us with blue skies, something we’d only been blessed with in the mornings during our time there, with heavy rainy afternoons. Generally during the afternoons, we either chilled in local cafes or visited the art galleries and markets. Travelling in the rainy season doesn’t always have its perks! We wandered over to a heavily reviewed breakfast place, Water Castle Cafe and I immediately loved it before I even entered the cafe. Tucked away in the quaint back roads, the cafe was surrounded by (urban) nature. Inside, the artwork was a mix of vintage paintings and framed photography. It reminded me of a junkyard heaven with random antiques and mismatched furniture. The owners had the friendliest smiles and an infectious energy as they prepared everything themselves. I had some light fruit pancakes with juice and my partner, a fruit bowl. The freshness of the food was incredible, made with love and a great start to the day. Also, the prices were insanely cheap, under a pound for drinks and breakfast each.

Our last day in Yogyakarta was also our last in Indonesia and we decided to take it slow, preparing for the long travel day back to the UK the day after. We spent the morning seeing the last few sights, including Tamansari Water Castle, where the royal garden of the Sultanate of Yogyakarta once was. Although the grounds were worn away, the charm remained intact. We also didn’t realise how these grounds connected to many other monuments nearby in the city. A local found us wandering around and took us along all the ruins once connected to this site.

The Tamansari Water Castle was built in 1765 for Hamengku Buwoo, the sultan of the kingdom of Yogyakarta. Spread over 12,600 acres, the castle includes various water gardens, artificial lakes, pools and 59 buildings. Its landscape also includes a meditation space, fort, mosque and underground tunnels connecting all the features together. I did walk past the mosque but as it was underground, and there was no public access. I peeked through a gap to try and see the mosque but, to be honest it was a mass of stone and pretty dark inside.

Other notable sights included the Sultan Palace and Jogja National Museum. I expected more from the Sultan Palace as there wasn’t much to see within the grounds, and we were in and out incredibly quickly. Although, the Jogja National Museum was a lovely surprise and a unique experience. I thought it would be a historic place, explaining the city’s history. However, it was an abstract, contemporary art gallery with thought-provoking pieces spread across a few floors. The art was contemporary and quite a few pieces caught my eye as this type of art always makes me wonder the mindset of the artist and the symbolism of the creation. One piece had a splatter of paint on it in a giant white room and that was it, and the simplicity really stroked me. I probably should have taken note in the artist, but I was too busy in thought about the piece. The museum was also vacant, with only a few students looking around.

With sightseeing ticked off and feeling knackered, we resided in Couvee, a modern cafe popular with local freelancers and online workers as we were the only ones without a laptop. The café was clean, modern and white with typical Ikea-ish furniture, with a random menu from drinks to pasta and some baked goods I have to shout this place out purely for its scrumptious iced chocolate and distance from our hotel.

The hotel I stayed in was called Ayaartta Hotel Malioboro. As the last destination in a three-month backpacking trip, we wanted a luxurious stay to enjoy a truly serene experience before jetting back to the UK. The hotel had to be one of the fanciest I stayed in across Asia, costing £55 for three nights and reminded me of an ultra-exquisite Premier Inn. This hotel featured an all-you-can eat breakfast, pool onsite and a hub for local events.

We finished our time in the city at Kesuma restaurant. Located along a tiny alley, it had a humble family environment and served plenty of specific and traditional Indonesian meals The decoration I can only describe as cluttered, it felt like I was sitting in my grandparents’ house, full of all their belongings with tables laid out with white tablecloths. But I liked that as it held the traditional, family appeal throughout. The crowd of people were limited as it was a small restaurant, but they were all tourists, who, like us, must have read about this place on Trip Advisor or blog posts. The meals varied from noodle dishes, curries and nasi goreng of course. The starters here such as fried tempe were incredible, although the nasi goreng let me down as my final meal because it didn’t taste the same, was spicy and had no egg.

Yogyakarta was a local experience and one of the reasons I enjoyed it in the few days we had. We immersed ourselves in the city’s everyday routine whilst visiting the famous sights and sampling the notable Javanese dishes. I also loved how many students talked with us and interviewed us as part of their school project because it allowed us to communicate with new people. They asked us who we were, where we were from, our age and how long we’ve spent in the city. Also, what our thoughts were of Yogyakarta and what we did during our trip there. The girls who asked the questions even gave us a bracelet to say thank you! My partner and I had lots of things to say as we loved the city and wanted to share the feedback with them.

Another aspect I also noticed about Yogyakarta was the lack of integration of tourists within the local population. Generally, most tourists you could tell were only there for a few days as they were hitting up the main sights. When I saw people in coffee shops working or roaming around, they were mainly locals. Also, in comparison to Thailand, I found a lack of tourists with long-term partners from Indonesia. Whereas, in Thailand, integrated relationships are much more common.

With great shopping opportunities, inexpensive and delicious food and wondrous sights, spending three days in Yogyakarta was a winner in my books.

Dubrovnik is an underrated destination for a summer holiday, in comparison to the Greek Islands or the Canary Islands, and honestly, I don’t understand why. This city is probably one of the prettiest places I’ve visited in Europe and a location where beauty lingers throughout the seasons, especially in the summer months. The glimmering water and sunshine bouncing off all the main sights are a treat to the eyes. When the sun is at its peak and the city livens up with flocks of tourists and locals, and the beaches come alive, it’s a gorgeous place to be.

The Old Town is Dubrovnik’s most touristy area because it’s the hub for the most popular attractions such as The City Walls, Fort Lovrijenac and cable car. I visited all three of these and especially loved the cable car to get a bird’s eye view of Dubrovnik and see it as day turned to night. Dubrovnik has an old-school charm everyone wants to soak in and has an authenticity like nothing else I’ve experienced before. The authenticity is shown through the tiny alleyways and locals chatting, sitting on steps near their homes. They won’t be changing their ways for tourists any time soon. I don’t think there’s any way to compare the authenticity to other, smaller cities because each city has a different appeal and definition of what ‘authentic’ means. So, it’s even more authentic because it can’t be compared to other cities!

But the real question is, should you stay in the Old Town when in Dubrovnik? Is it worth it?

I could probably sum it up in a few words: the Old Town certainly has its pros and cons, depending on the type of traveller you are, when you’re planning your trip and what activities you’d like to get up to on your holiday. The Old Town is definitely for the explorer-traveller who loves a dose of the main tourist sights, roaming quaint streets and discovering new things. It’s for people who don’t live their lives according to guide books and travel guides. It’s for people who want to engage with the locals and, also, who want to sit on a rampart high above the city and take in the views by themselves. It’s a city for artists, especially landscape artists.

During my time in Dubrovnik, I stayed in the centre of the Old Town, only a few minutes’ walk from the main street in the city, the Stradun. The Stradun is packed with restaurants, cafes, a couple of shops and it’s from this throughfare that all the quaint alleyways in the Old Town spread out, including to the old port and to the Old Town exit.

I noticed when checking into my apartment (and getting lost as I couldn’t find it), that the main type of accommodations was apartments and it seemed to be the norm to stay in those. I loved that though because I’m a huge fan of self-catering accommodation when travelling. I prefer to make a place my own and call it home for a few days, rather than living the hotel lifestyle. It means I can control my breakfast eating times and also have that ‘local’ feeling to my accommodation too. I don’t always have to feel like a tourist in a new city, it can become a temporary home away from home.

My apartment was traditionally European in every way, located along a thin alleyway in the Old Town, above many of the cobbled steps. Its door was completely frosted, as were the windows which,  honestly, was the weirdest thing to me because we actually couldn’t see what the weather was like each morning until we stepped out of the building; and the amount of light in the room wasn’t great either. Despite that, I adored the little apartment. It had a large bedroom space with a double bed, TV and clothes storage with a vintage-looking bedside table. The kitchen area was attached with a typical older-looking kitchen (very Mediterranean) and a picnic-style table as a dining table, right next to it. The whole apartment had marble floors and the bathroom was slightly different, more modern. I adored the humble look and how it wasn’t overly fancy. It looked lived-in and homely.

One of the things worth noting is no accommodation in the Old Town has central heating. If you’re visiting in the summer months when the sun is at its peak there is no need to worry, however, during cooler times and off-season, blankets and extra layers will have to be your best friend. That’s the thing with European houses and apartments as well, they’re designed to keep cool and it can be a bit of a disadvantage, especially in the Old Town with minimal ways to warm up. Of course, if you’re travelling with a loved one, cuddling up under thick blankets after  a hot soak in the bath together, in a flat in the Old Town can feel kinda sexy in its own way. The antiquity and history can be a turn on for some!

Despite the lack of heating, the apartment was a place I could have made home and the joy of its location didn’t end there. The Old Town itself had a pull to it like no other. When initially researching Dubrovnik, I found the Old Town area to be the priciest part of Dubrovnik, probably because of its proximity to the attractions and natural charm. But, because of that, I was sceptical about it being worth the hype. Were they charging a little more because it was amazing or because they knew people would pay to be in the bustle?

In my opinion, the bustle is all part of the Old Town’s charm. I loved this spot in the quieter hours of the morning and when it was packed with laughter and chatter from tourists and locals alike. They were two different vibes, but both were worth the experience and I’m glad it’s something I was able to do.

On our first day in the city, the weather wasn’t pleasant, with cloudy skies and rainfall deterring people away from mooching around. I liked this experience as it allowed me to appreciate the Old Town without the noise and rush, it was effortless.

When the weather did warm up, however, the people emerged like kids into candy shops and the streets were full of life. There was a combination of locals and tourists, intertwining with each other, sitting in bars and chatting away in restaurants. It showed the heart of Dubrovnik in every way possible way, and I felt grateful where I was staying happened to be moments away from that joyous bustle.

Considering daytime antics and what sunny Dubrovnik was like, I imagined it would be loud and busy at night, keeping me awake. However, that was far from the truth. Nestled away, within the residential apartments, the flat kept out the noise. I woke up every morning to quiet streets in the earlier hours before the city came alive and I loved how the city was all mine and I could plan the day’s exploration in peace. I could absorb all the beauty without the distraction of other locals and tourists. When it comes to new cities, this part of the morning is great for a walk and looking for potential breakfast places. It’s probably worth mentioning that I visited at the beginning of the season (early May), before the flock of tourists had the opportunity to take over the Old Town. This in itself gave me the best of both worlds as there were enough crowds to enjoy the busy ambience but not enough to take away from the city’s charm.

My favourite part of staying in the Old Town was how I could walk to every attraction I wanted to which meant everything I needed to see was within easy reach. From the renowned Old City Walls, the old port, the Stradun, and the famous beach scene -including Banje Beach and Sulic Bay- to Fort Lovrijenac, Jesuit staircase and the cable car ride.

The Walls of Dubrovnik were built in the 13^th century and during the 15 century, 15 towers were built as part of the walls – some which are still there today. The 12^th century, cliff-perched Fort Lovrijenac, although outside the Old Town’s walls, is worth a visit. Braver souls can even attempt to dive off the cliffs! The Jesuit staircase, now famous for a Games of Thrones scene, originates in 1738. It was designed by Italian architect Pietro Passalacqua and is an example of Baroque architecture in the city. The majority of the architecture in Dubrovnik is either medieval or Baroque.

The two main beaches, Banje Beach and Sulic Bay, have their own reasons to be beautiful and are completely different. Banje Beach is the tourist hub with plenty of sun beds and the place to be for water sports. Whilstpebbly Sulic Bay is tucked away and popular with cliff jumpers.

The Old City Walls is a unique experience and one I’m thankful to have done. I walked around the entirety of the Old Town and saw the city from every angle. There was something magical about being up high and seeing the city below me. My favourite part was the view of endless terracotta rooftops as for me that’s what I picture when I think of Dubrovnik.

The beach scene was a dream with its combination of different pebbly terrains. Its water was so clear, that it didn’t look real, kind of like what you’d expect on an edited Instagram picture. I loved the calmness of the water and spending hours lapping up the sunshine. The old port area had a local feel to it with boats passing in and out, taking passengers on excursions and a row of vendors selling the tickets. They were friendly, chatting amongst themselves and with us as we booked our trips. They made us feel welcome in every way. Fort Lovrijenac was one of those sights I’m grateful to have taken in the view from, the same with the cable car ride to Mount Srd. In both experiences, I got a taste of what Dubrovnik looks like from a distance.

Among all the main attractions, the main draw for me was the ambience of the Old Town itself. Being amongst it every day, discovering new quaint streets and charming buildings such as local’s apartments made my heart happy. The streets surrounding the accommodation near The Rupe Museum had to be my favourite as they captured the true heart of the city. It had that local appeal about it, with people living their normal everyday life. And for me, although Dubrovnik has become a touristic place, there are many people which still call it there home – and that’s the true heart of any location.

Everything I needed was right at my fingertips and the longest walk I had to do was around 30 minutes, to reach the esteemed Sveti Jacov Beach. This close proximity meant I could relax more as I didn’t have to worry about wasting time travelling to and from places. I could get up, see what was on the agenda and know I didn’t have to think about public transport or booking a taxi. I could simply venture out and be on my way. There was also that ease of knowing how easy it was to find my way back as the Old Town isn’t big at all. I love waking up and strolling along the cobbled paths to reach the buzzing vibe of the Stradun or mooching down to the harbour and sailing away on an excursion.

The apartment, as I mentioned, was around a ten-minute walk to the old port, a couple of minutes to Stradun and the City Walls, fifteen minutes to the nearest beach and about 2 minutes to the closest restaurant.

I keep thinking about should I have stayed somewhere else to get more of a local feel to Dubrovnik? And honestly, the answer is no. Despite being in the hustle and bustle of tourism and activity, I didn’t feel like my stay was over commercial like many other tourist hotspots. I didn’t feel as if I was surrounded by keen holiday-goers only wanting to get drunk and lounge about, it was the opposite. I felt the people who I walked passed, were travellers who appreciate authentic beauty and seeing new cultures – and wanted to see how the Old Town lived up to expectations.

I don’t think I would have experienced the draw of the quaint walkways, cobbled streets and locals weaving in and out of old-school apartments in other parts of Dubrovnik. It didn’t have the overly holiday feel because it wasn’t packed with resorts or beach spots, it was endearing and attractive in the ways a city should be.

Overall, I do think staying in the Old Town was completely worth every penny. Even though it had a slightly higher price tag than staying in places such as Lapad, it was a better investment for many reasons. I had easy access to the old port for boat trips and bus stop to get to and from the airport. Food and drink options were endless with cafes and restaurants around every single corner in the Old Town that I was spoilt for choice. Andit meant I saved on all things transport cost as there was no need to pay for public transport since all the attractions and beaches could be reached by foot.

The allure of the Old Town won my heart over every single morning. I don’t think I ever got bored of walking down the same cobbled steps morning and night to reach my apartment. Every time it felt new and surreal, but at the same time as home and completely familiar. It’s hard to describe it but the Old Town had a way of welcoming me home. Travelling is something that feels natural to me, and I love finding places which feel safe enough to hold the same feeling of locations I’ve seen over and over. It may be down to the fact the Old Town had an Italian appeal to it to why it suited me so nicely.

It’s worth it because I had all I needed for a beautiful holiday in Dubrovnik. I could find new things to see each day, roaming around back to my apartment, as every street had its one unique flair. Whether that was cute shops, cafes or restaurants or authentic-looking Mediterranean homes, covered in flowers and terracotta roofs. There was always something interesting to look at and as I ventured out of the Old Town, the same beauty didn’t remain in the same way. The views were impeccable, and the beaches took my breath away, but the ancient style and secret feeling the Old Town have didn’t match up anywhere else.

And it’s also with saying I loved the limiting use of transport within the Old Town. Due to the windy cobbled streets and steep paths, cars wouldn’t get around as much as in other places across the city. To me, this added to the appeal because it kind of turned back the time slightly where walking around was the norm and that’s how you’d get about your day-to-day life.

To sum it up, the answer is yes. If you’re planning a trip to Dubrovnik, I would highly recommend choosing a spot in the Old Town to stay. The Old Town isn’t overly large in the slightest and means you can stay wherever throughout it and still be close by to all the top attractions on foot. It takes under 10 minutes to walk from one side of the Old Town to the other which is nothing, compared to if you were staying in Lapad, where the peninsula is double in size.

Dubrovnik is a city that’ll open your eyes to many new experiences, good food and views you won’t believe are real and I’d recommend it to anyone. To get the full experience of Old Town, I would suggest booking your trip as the season begins. This allows you to experience the sunny skies of the city and get a dose of the busy atmosphere without too many tourists travelling through – and see the Old Town in all its glory.

I have to admit: before travelling to Croatia, I had no idea what the traditional cuisine would be like. As Dubrovnik was a coastal city and nearby to Italy, I assumed it would be similar, offering fresh pizzas, pasta and other authentic Mediterranean food. Seafood, mezzes and ice cream all came to mind when I thought of the city on the Adriatic Coast. Actually, I love ice cream so I was hoping it would be an integral part of Dubrovnik’s culinary scene!

It took me a while to grasp the culture of Croatia. To me, the city of Dubrovnik had a Mediterranean influence throughout and its Old Town reminded me of small towns in Tuscany, with its charming buildings and cobbled streets. There wasn’t one building which stood out per se, it was more the entire vibe of the Old Town that was reminiscent of the quaint streets in Siena and Lucca, especially the more rustic-looking buildings. Nevertheless, the Old Town has its own identity and history. A welcome bonus was the Croatians’ warmth and friendliness (not unlike the Italians).

It wasn’t until I immersed myself in the wonders of Dubrovnik that I realised, that even though there was a Mediterranean influence, Croatia had plenty of renowned dishes and snacks that deserved to be tried and tested. Croatian restaurants are hard to find in the UK, which is a shame, so Croatia is where you need to go for authentic Croatian cuisine. The most famous dish has to be the black risotto (also known as crnirižot). Other popular dishes are anything with truffle in them (mainly truffle pasta or risotto) and the burek (a traditional pastry). Pescatarians will appreciate the heavy focus on seafood, especially oysters and mussels. I would describe the Croatian cuisine as a mixture of hearty and fresh. The heartiness includes the heavy and rich dishes such as those that rely on the truffle, whilst the freshness is most apparent in the classic seafood.

This cuisine is unexpectedly and unpretentiously romantic, similar to Italian. Both cultures share a passion for food and drink. The meals are events in themselves, rather than a pit-stop en route to another engagement. It’s the type of food I can imagine is consumed after a long day’s work. I can picture couples collapsing onto the sofa after a hearty meal, perhaps finishing off the bottle of Croatian red, letting the potent mix of wine and rich food work their sensual magic. Who needs a trashy rom-com to get you in the mood when you’ve got bold and sensuous cuisine and wine! It’s the type of food that demands to be tasted, not so much in dainty bites but big mouthfuls. It’s the sort of carb-heavy food you need before a night of passion, especially during those cold winter nights.

A new city always fills my heart with curiosity. I love to experience everything there is to see and also dive into the food scene. We arrived in Dubrovnik around the afternoon and the first stop meant ice cream, despite the poor weather. The funny thing we noticed is that everyone, including tourists and locals, would eat ice cream in the warm sunshine and when it was raining.

We chose Peppino’s Gelato Factory. I assumed it was a one-off place, however, they were a common chain in the city but this didn’t affect the quality of the ice cream, Peppino’s ice cream was a winner. What I loved most about this ice cream shop was the sheer selection of flavours ranging from standard to premium, and the matching prices. There had to be every flavour under the sun from the standard chocolate, pistachio and strawberry to premium flavours such as Kinder Maxi King. The prices ranged depending on the standard flavours and premium flavours, but it would still only cost a couple of pounds. I’m a massive chocoholic which means whenever I choose ice cream, I pick flavours with some sort of chocolate addition to them. I opted for the classic chocolate and the Kinder Bueno Premium flavour – and I got my sugar fix from them. When I compare the ice cream here to England, this gelato place itself went above and beyond. At home, we have all the standard flavours, such as chocolate, vanilla and hazelnut, in our seaside towns. However, more distinctive flavours such as tiramisu or mango sorbet aren’t as common. Peppino’s was an inside counter where you’d grab an ice cream and go.

By the time dinner wrapped around, we were hungry after a morning of travelling and an afternoon getting to grips with our bearings. Being the typical Italian I am, I fancied pasta and the Old Town boasted a strong presence of Mediterranean restaurants, including plenty of Italian spots. We opted for Spaghetteria Toni because it was famous for being the best Italian in the area and I wanted to see if it was up to par. Despite the rain, we sat outside under the shelter where many other tourists and locals sat enjoying their dinner. It’s funny because you couldn’t imagine us eating our dinner in the rain in England! Luckily, the canopy prevented our food from getting splashed. Although, what I loved was the particular aroma in the air. It was a combination of rain, heightened by the old, damp stones on the buildings surrounding me, and freshly cooked Italian food lingering in the air. Eating in historic surroundings makes the dining experience more special.  

I didn’t get a full look of the interior. However, the outside featured dark, wooden decking style chairs, black tables and dimmed lighting under the canopy, and was surrounded by the classic cobbles. There’s just something about walking home on glistening cobbled streets after a splendid dinner … The restaurant was in the Old Town, a few minutes’ walk from the famous Stradun and near our apartment. This area was touristy (but not in a garish Leicester Square/Times Square way) but because we went at the beginning of the season, it didn’t feel claustrophobic; there were more locals than tourists visiting the restaurants and wandering the streets.

We discovered on the next morning breakfast isn’t a big deal in the city. Again, I expected it to be like Italy where you’d go to a bakery and buy a pastry to-go or head to a local coffee shop. Yet, we found not many to be open or really, not a huge amount around. Instead, the evening restaurants would open in the earlier hours and serve a typical continental breakfast, such as bread and jam, ham and cheeses for instance (I think mainly for tourists). Because of this, we used our apartment and had breakfast there before we went out each day.

Just before lunchtime, we were feeling a little peckish and waltzing through the Old Town and came across the Holy Burek, a tiny eatery selling the famous burek. The decoration was surprisingly very modern with a neon sign at the entrance and hanging from the ceiling, marble flooring and wooden countertops. We could also see them preparing the bureks behind the counter! I’m not entirely sure how old the eatery was as it didn’t state it anywhere, but from what the guy working there told us, their experience dates back to his great-grandmother. The burek is the oldest Baltic pastry and is very famous in Croatia. It has Anatolian origins and can be found in the cuisines of the Balkans, Mediterranean, and across other countries in Eastern Europe and Western Asia.

In this shop, the owner explained to us in many places throughout the city, they don’t make the burek the traditional way and he uses his great, great grandma’s recipe to curate the pastry, to taste as authentic as possible. Their menu only included a few options, which I always think is a good sign. It shows they know their craft and do it well. The burek flavours included everything from cheese to veal and mushrooms. I can confirm the burek is delicious. I got the spinach and cheese and my sister, the leek and cheese. It’s a thin and long pastry, filled with an array of different options and wasn’t too heavy or greasy, considering it’s a pastry. Given my first impressions eating a burek, I definitely would eat again. The burek was pretty cheap, the equivalent of a few pounds and came exclusively on its own.

I always love dinner on holiday because it means a slightly bigger deal than breakfast or lunch as you can go all out. On the second evening, the sun was high in the sky and the vibe in the air was everything. It had that summery feeling about the place. Locals and tourists alike filled the restaurants and bars along the Stradun, the main street in the Old Town. We couldn’t take our eyes off one of the restaurants because it was so bright and modern, and people had the biggest smiles sitting there. Either the food there was amazing or the people were unusually cheerful! We decided to explore!

Called SNEK by coNGo, the establishment had more of a European bar feel than a classic restaurant, but I liked it regardless. It was modern, openly planned with various food on the menu, not only Croatian specialities – and overlooked the buzzing vibe of the Stradun, reminding me of summer in Spain and Italy. Inside, the seats were colourful and cosy sofa-style chairs, whilst the outside offered wooden-style seating and tables. I say it had a combination of tourists and locals in the bar, but it was one of those places suited more to tourists.

We decided to delve into their tapas menu and honestly, I was blown away by the quality of the food. It wasn’t a uniquely Spanish restaurant as all the dishes were across the Mediterranean, not only exclusive to Spain. Everything I ate in this city was always incredibly fresh and restaurants obviously took their food seriously. We had deep-fried prawns (Kozice tempura), slow-cooked pork belly tortillas, a cheese and fruit salad (Sirevi s kompotomodjabuka ) and roasted vegetable wraps (which I can’t remember the traditional name of). I kid you not: everything I ate, I kept saying ‘this is delicious’. The food quality was impeccable and cost around £35 including soft drinks. And, to top off our experience there, our seats overlooked the whole street, and we watched a wedding as we were dining – what a beautiful sight. The service was attentive and prompt, and the waiter was super friendly towards us. The wedding reminded me of a film, one you would get out of a typical rom-com. In a kind of meta, post-modern way, my sister and I could have been in a scene from a rom-com! I couldn’t see any Croatian customs or anything different as I only witnessed them walking out the church in their wedding attire.

Later that evening, we had to finish the night with ice cream so we headed to the old port at their kiosk. I can’t say it actually had a name, but you can’t miss it and it’s a popular place for ice cream, and cheap too – around £2-3 for two scoops.

We wanted to explore the nightlife scene a bit and as the city boasts a cool cable car overlooking the entirety of Dubrovnik, I thought it’ll be a phenomenal spot to have a drink with a view. By the time we headed to the Panorama Bar next to the cable car stop, the sun was setting and the mountains to one side looked sensational in the night sky, as did the city on our other side. The decor here was clean, white and modern with wooden tables, covered in pristine white tablecloths. The waitresses and waiters dressed up to the nines and treated us like royalty. It felt like we were in a private resort, especially with the dimmed lights and surroundings. This place had to be overpriced for what it was (around £10 for a cocktail), but they did make a top-notch cocktail, both a Mai Tai and Pina Colada. It was more about the experience of having a drink up there and basking in glamour of the bar. It’s the most touristy thing we did but I loved it all the same! Girls on holiday need their ‘glamour-fix’!

Landing back on the ground in the Old Town, we also discovered a tiny street by the Stradun and ventured into D’Vino Wine bar. This bar had a completely old-school charm ( it wasn’t modern and overly fancy) about it with Italian vibes, featuring rustic, charming wooden furnishing and endless bottles of wine inside and the loudness of locals talking and singing adding to the vibrant atmosphere. It had that fun element of Italian bars and restaurants, filled with endless chatter. We took the liberty of sitting outside because in the warm evening heat, and it was the perfect temperature to enjoy a glass of vino. The lady who served me was friendly and informative about the wine she was giving us, describing the list in detail and recommending a classic Moscato. And, as her intellect stated, she was correct, I would adore it. The best thing about this bar was the loud music, blaring as locals and tourists were chatting. Its friendly atmosphere lingered all night long. The bar shut at 2 am and in general bars shut between 12 am-2 am.

The Sunday of our trip was packed with a kayak tour and beach exploring, so the perfect day to form an appetite. Starting the day with a homemade breakfast of simple cereal and fruit, by the time lunchtime swung around, we were starving. We discovered this place called Barba, known as a cheaper alternative, and famous for street seafood. Croatia was known for fresh seafood, and we couldn’t wait to sample some more. It was a tiny little restaurant, along with one of the small alleys in the Old Town by a set of stairs. The restaurant only had a couple of wooden tables and the main counter to order from, with a small menu of a few specialities to choose from. Despite the size of the place, it was rammed with every table full and a small queue of people ordering, however, the service was quick, friendly and efficient.

Both of us chose an octopus sandwich with mascarpone cheese on this black-dyed bread (it didn’t have a specific name) and they cost £6 each. We brought the sandwiches down to Sulic Bay, a small and quiet stretch of pebbles. I hadn’t eaten octopus in a while. However, I was pleasantly surprised; it wasn’t as fishy as I expected and complimented well the thick bread, mascarpone cheese and salad. I would happily eat that sandwich again! Sulic Bay was a gorgeous spot to try the sandwich and soak up the atmosphere with its clear blue waters, pebbles and an endless view of the water and rock formations.

Dinner this evening was where we took the opportunity to jump onto more traditional food. We found a strip of restaurants behind the Stradun, which was a lovely surprise. I wish we found it sooner as the choice of eateries was endless! After a tough decision, we picked Moskar Street Food, which I would say was the best restaurant of the entire trip and one I’d happily return to over and over.

We dined outside the restaurant. It had that rustic appeal with its wooden tables and set against a stone wall. The atmosphere outside was electric with very happy and chatty tourists on either side of us who were all enjoying their experience at the restaurant. The service had to be the best we’ve experienced with a waitress who assisted our every need! Its menu was varied but a lot more specific compared to previous places we had dined at.

We chose mussels in a tomato sauce for starters. I’m not sure if this type of mussel dish was Croatian, however, mussels were very popular across Dubrovnik and Croatia as a whole – and it’s recommended to try them here. Mussels are something I’m learning to like more and here, they were truly fresh, and the sauce complimented them well. We were given free bread too, which helped soak up any remaining sauce. For mains, we shared two dishes, the famous black risotto with crayfish and the gnocchi with a truffle sauce. The black risotto gets the colour from the use of squid ink and anything truffle is made across the city and country. Despite not usually being a huge risotto fan, this was a lovely and light surprise. Usually, risotto is pretty stodgy but not this one and the fish taste wasn’t too overbearing as well. Although, the winner in my eyes was the gnocchi. I have never been more blown away by a dish than the truffle gnocchi. It was like heaven dancing on my tongue and incredibly moreish. I wish it wasn’t so heavy as I could eat more and more of the dish. We both had freshly squeezed lemonade to accompany the meal, which was pretty tart and needed some sugar to sweeten it! The dinner came to around the £40 mark which for the quality,wasn’t bad at all.

To top it all off, the waitress was the loveliest person I got served by in Dubrovnik. Her manners were sublime, and she catered for our every need. The ladies at the table next to us couldn’t stop singing her praises for her service.

No night is complete without ice cream, and we chose the Ice Cream Dubrovnik place on the main street. It was like a pop-up cafe inside a small building along the street. Even though it was heavily touristy, the ice cream reached the chocolate scale par – I got dark chocolate and Ferrero Rocher. I loved how all the ice cream we sampled was the proper kind, not watery or flavourless. The ice cream was about £3.

Our last full day began with filling our stomachs with cereals and hopping on a boat. Lunch today was served on the boat, which meant we didn’t have the opportunity to try a local restaurant or cafe. However, it did allow us to see the type of food they served up. We had a selection of roasted vegetables, bread and cheese.

That evening, I fancied pizza and we opted for Pizzeria Mirakul which I had read was the best pizzeria in the Old Town. We again dined outside (the perks of southern Europe in late May!) and on these classic-looking wooden benches and matching tables. The restaurant outside had a friendly atmosphere but not as loud as other places which we liked. And the waiters had that friendly appeal when taking our order. I’m very hesitant with trying Italian food elsewhere but something about this place drew me in – and I think that had something to do with the history. The current owner’s grandfather, Andrija Sentic, head of the family was working as a baker in Naples. Here, he met a pizza master of Pizzeria Brandi. Andrija learnt the original recipe for the dough and brought it to Dubrovnik – and since that day, the secret has been kept in the pizzeria.

Considering the history, I had high expectations, and I can safely say the pizzas were insanely good. We chose the seafood pizza and the vegetarian pizza. What I liked most was the fresh dough, it was thinly rolled out and the toppings highlighted the taste with fresh tomato sauce and cheese. I would love to eat this pizza all over again. It went down well with their freshly made lemonade. I did notice in this city how lemonade was freshly made rather than selling classic fizzy drinks such as Sprite. I enjoyed that because not only did it taste better, but it also wasn’t packed with sugar. We paid around £25 for our meal in total.

Instead of ice cream that evening, we went to the local corner shop and picked a couple of chocolate bars including a biscuit-based one, a popping candy one and a dark chocolate option. I always like to see what chocolate and sweets are like in other countries, as it’s one of those weird things which excite me. I didn’t expect much as European chocolate is never great, and really, it lived up to that level of expectation. It wasn’t awful but a lot less sugary and creamy than the chocolate bars I get in the UK. I think I’ll stick with Cadbury.

Our last morning meant soaking up the last of the beach scene. We stopped off at one of their chain bakeries, Milnar, which looked like the Croatian version of Gregg’s. It was a lot nicer than expected, serving up classic chocolate hazelnut croissants and vanilla doughnut-style pastries. To finish off our trip in Dubrovnik before heading to the airport, we had our last ice cream stop: Bocapiena, a place we had been eyeing up the entire time. It had that proper Instagram look to it with colourful walls and bold lighting, and a cool selection of flavours. I have to say, it was a lot pricier than all the other ice cream places we went to and although the chocolate and hazelnut favour were delicious, I didn’t see why they cost more.

Overall, Dubrovnik’s food scene fulfilled my foodie quest. I’m a huge foodie and to me eating around a destination is as important as seeing, so, my expectations are always pretty high in new locations. Dubrovnik had a knack for quality food; every restaurant I visited had that high standard approach with delicious grub and friendly service. I don’t think I can fault the charm of the Croatians and their passion for food.

My favourite food had to be at the Moskar Street Food restaurant. I could happily eat the truffle gnocchi dish a million times over. The creaminess blended with the richness of the truffle was moreish and had a lingering aftertaste I adored. Plus, that restaurant also boasted all things traditional and allowed me to experience their renowned dishes with a friendly charm.

I was pleasantly surprised also by the ice cream scene. Despite only a small selection of gelato shops to pick from, the ice cream didn’t have that overly processed taste and feel. It tasted like proper ice cream, made freshly there and then for locals and visitors alike to enjoy.

It’s worth mentioning the seafood too. Seafood is something I’ve been trying to grow my palette with for ages. Eating the seafood in Dubrovnik was the icing on the cake because of its level of freshness. I love how the seafood was locally caught as not only could you taste the difference, but it was refreshing supporting local fishermen. It’s hard to say which fish dish I had was my favourite, but the seafood pizza was pretty up there as the black risotto.

If you’re a big foodie, Dubrovnik is somewhere to add to your list to taste a variety of cuisines and embrace the fresh seafood way of life (if that’s your thing). Most of the restaurants and places I ate were in the Old Town, the most touristy part of the city – and because of that, I would have been intrigued to see what the restaurants and eateries were like further away from the tourist path.

Dubrovnik is a destination which exceeded my expectation in every way from its out-of-this-world sights, clear waters and food scene that touched my heart (and stomach) in every way.

Bologna is a close-knit city and is easy to navigate around, with many locals commuting via bike or on foot. This is why, wherever you choose to stay, you’re always within reach of the main attractions and, like any city, the more central you are, the better.

Bologna is pretty walkable and you can reach all the main sights and even the outskirts by foot. Or, alternatively, a bike if you don’t want to utilise the public transportation on offer. Buses are the main form of public transport to get around the central part (within the city walls and outside them) or there’s always the option of a taxi.

I didn’t use the buses when I was in Bologna because I found it easier to walk around all the sights. However, from what I could see, they were pretty efficient throughout the city. Google Maps is always useful when figuring out a new public transport system and it’s no different here. Single tickets for the bus can be purchased on board or beforehand and cost €1,50.

My apartment was also close by to the centre, hence the walking around everywhere. Many sights were in reach, yet, the closest was the Porta Mascarella, a brick tower with a pointed arch from the 13^th century. It was formerly part of the city’s defence wall.

Despite Bologna being renowned as a city to hold onto its traditional values and a hub for more locals than tourists, it’s not short on hotels, apartments and hostels to choose from. When planning my trip there, I wasn’t sure where the best place was to stay or what would suit my trip the most. I’m usually one to stay in an apartment or self-catering accommodation when visiting Italy as I love to go out for breakfast and enjoy the local cuisine and delicacies of pastries and cakes. It’s one of the best things about Italy and something you’ll miss out on if staying in a typical hotel. I prefer seeking out the best coffee shops and bakeries for my breakfast fix.

Staying in an apartment gives me more of a homely feel than a hotel or hostel because I can make it my own place for a few days and feel more relaxed. I’m able to do things on my own accord, buy breakfast in and have ownership of the place for the duration of my stay. It even helps me feel more creative as I’m in a homely environment so I love to think of my best writing ideas after a day of exploring.

Located only a two-minute walk from Piazza Il Campo, my stay at Hotel La Perla was the perfect addition to exploring Siena. Its central location on Ville delle Terme meant all the famous sights and eateries were only a short walk away and I was in the midst of the city action.

From the outside, the hotel had an old-school appeal with a medieval look, showcasing its history as the 13th-century building that it is. Tucked away from the winding streets, it wasn’t too obvious to discover. But, when the large wooden doors open, a more modern interior is introduced with accents of Italian design from the 20th century. The room itself had a complete modern appeal with geometric wallpaper, slate-looking floors, and wooden furnishing, but the slight old-school wooden window panes remained, which I loved. The bed was a double, with a light wooden headboard and pristine white covers, sitting under the view of the city. I loved the view of my room, as every morning, I could peek out and see the never-ending sights of Siena’s classic medieval buildings and locals, strolling around, kick starting their day. The bathroom had the same modern appeal with a small shower, tucked away in the corner that did the job.

In a city, accessibility is key as I always prefer to be in the midst of the action so I can pop back to my room if needed, whether that’s if I’ve forgotten something or need a change of clothes – and that’s why this hotel fitted my needs perfectly.

In terms of pricing, the hotel is in the slightly cheaper category considering its location and quality of accommodation. It’s around £60 a night in the off-season but with its modern design, centre location, and traditional exterior, I would think the price tag would be a lot more during the busier periods. Siena is growing in popularity and that means accommodation is really easy to find, depending on what you’re looking for. There are pricier options and cheaper options too if you’re on a lower budget, something for the backpacker or those who prefer a place that is slightly more refined.

My favourite thing about the hotel, aside from the dreamy central location was that it felt more luxurious than the price tag with an up-to-date room, charming owners who were so kind to me during my stay, making me feel at home, and the lingering scent of the bakery nearby every morning. I can’t remember their names but their warm smiles and energy is something that will always sit with me. Meeting locals always gives a taste of what the people are like as a whole in a new place, and the kindness of the Sienese people, showed the differentiation to locals in wealthier places. Those locals tend not to be as over-welcoming like the Siena hotels owners did. The owners would greet me with suggestions on what to do in the city and always asked how I was doing.

The hotel didn’t include breakfast, however, with the many family-owned bakeries, I was able to grab a pastry on the go before my day began. Caffe Independenza was a few doors down and served the classic Italian pastries that I adored, and an easy spot to start the day each morning. I also loved stepping out of the hotel every day as I went from a completely modern environment to the authentic and traditional appeal of the city with its cobbled streets and endless terracotta buildings. If you’re looking for a budget to a mid-range hotel that has a modern edge with a central location in Siena, this is for you. I would definitely return here when I head back to the city.

Italy is known to be the queen of all good food and that’s where Ristorante Al Mangia lives up to the hyped status. Its food is something I’ve been dreaming and craving about since my last visit and I’m keen to go back and eat its fresh pasta once more. The menu is varied with classic pasta dishes, meat dishes and specialty desserts.

The Tuscan cuisine has a real focus on hearty, traditional and wholesome dishes, with a big love for meat, soups and fresh vegetables. It’s similar to the Emilia Romana region in the sense of its freshness of food and real take on meat dishes. The most popular dishes in Tuscany are Bistecca, T-bone steak served on raging hot coals, bean soups such as acquacotta, lasagne bastarde, pasta made out of chestnut powder (chestnuts are used heavily for cooking in the region) and Picci All’aglione, which consists of Picci pasta (famous pasta from Siena) in a classic tomato and garlic sauce. Tuscans are also known to have a massive sweet tooth and particularly love dense cakes such as the Panforte.

The restaurant is the most famous in all of Siena for good reason, bridging the past and present together, with its name deriving from the first bell ringer of Torre del Mangia. Giovanni Ducci had a habit of spending all of his money on food and wine and earned two nicknames “Mangiaguadagni” (The Money-eater) or “Il Mangia” (The Eater). Seriously, what’s wrong with spending money on good food and wine?!

Medieval Tuscan cuisine has a similar premise of the food served today utilising local ingredients and as time went on, the cuisine evolved with more spices and flavours added to the mix. A typical meal in those times would have been Pasticcio alla fiorentina, a sweet crust pie with macaroni and meat sauce.

The restaurant’s ragu-style pasta, which derives in Emilia Romagna rather than Tuscany, created a party for my tastebuds with delicious wine (a classic Pinot Grigio) and a chocolate dessert, a small rich chocolate cake, Torta Pistocchi with gelato to accompany that. Tuscany desserts are focused on rich cakes such as Panfortedi Siena or Castagnaccio with all kinds of spices and flavours, similar to Emilia Romagna who are known for the Barozzi and Spongatadi Natale, both heavy cakes. I didn’t really know what to expect of the restaurant when I arrived, as it was tucked away around the corner from Piazza del Campo. I had my reservations about what it would be like, considering it was in the busiest part of the city but it exceeded my expectations in every way. I loved how it was a part of the bustle and the joy that makes up Siena.

I sat inside but I could feel that ambiance seep through the windows and enter the restaurant. The interior was also quite small and charming, it held the authenticity of a tiny and traditional Italian restaurant, one of love and pride. The decoration included photos on the wall showcasing the restaurant’s history and where it started and by sitting there, I felt part of that history somehow, like I was adding to the growth and keeping the restaurant open and the name alive. As I looked around, I could see other diners who felt the same; they liked being at a restaurant that meant so much to the city, to the owners, and to the many travellers that have walked through the doors. I had a feeling that the significance of its history was felt by many of the locals, as they saw the restaurant increase in popularity as the decades went on.

New York offers unlimited hotels to choose from and on my stay the Wellington Hotel was the perfect choice. The Wellington Hotel is located along Seventh Avenue at 55th Street and central to everything Manhattan is all about. The bustle and excitement of the city is only moments away from the hotel and that made every day waking up even more dream worthy.

Wellington’s central location meant easy access to all the main attractions including a ten minute walk to Times Square and the Rockefeller Center. I didn’t have to flag down taxis or hop on the subway as everything I wanted to see to experience the true city vibe was on my doorstep.

In terms of pricing, I would put The  Wellington in the average category to what most hotels would cost in New York. There are more budget-friendly options and of course, a lot more luxury options than this hotel, however, The Wellington offered everything I needed for an affordable price with a central location. I paid £100 a night for the hotel and divided it with my sister, so that it didn’t work out as too pricey, considering the amenities.

Wellington also offered breakfast tokens for a nearby cafe and I was able to get a bite to eat before setting foot in my day venturing around the city. If you’re looking for a mid-range, standard hotel for the full New York experience that gives you your money’s worth and more, I’d highly recommend The Wellington Hotel.

You don’t really know the meaning of a good cookie until you make a trip down to Levain Bakery when in NYC. Established in 1995 in the Upper West Side of Manhattan, Levain Bakery has gained a reputation over two decades for creating the biggest and gooiest cookies in the city. Be prepared to queue for a while as the scent of the chocolatey goodness lingers outside the store front.

Levain Bakery is an Instagram win (if you’re in to that sort of narcissism) and one you must have seen photos of when others have flocked to the city. The bakery offers a range of different cookies that look like large rocks filled with more chocolate chunks than you can count. On the outside, the cookies look hard but when you break them in half, the gooeyness of the soft centre is revealed and they have the perfect combination of a soft and crunchy cookie, baked to perfection.

The bakery has many different flavours of cookies so there’s the variety if you’re a picky eater or want to try a variety of the chunky cookies. I chose the triple chocolate flavour and my sister picked the milk chocolate one. We swapped at one point to try each other’s but I have to say the triple chocolate choice won by a mile. It’s definitely a cookie with a complete chocolate overload and perfect for the sweet tooth lover.

Pizza became the norm in America when the first ever pizzeria hit New York in 1905, called Lombardi’s. The pizzeria still stands today in the centre of Little Italy and offers the same charm, authenticity and incredible pizzas which were first launched in the city over a century ago.

Little Italy is a hub in Manhattan to offer the taste of the romantic country in the centre of NYC. It has that authentic and charismatic atmosphere to match it and a place that needs to be added to your agenda. I loved the ambiance of Little Italy and how the quirky and colourful buildings reminded me of walking through Rome.

Lombardi’s is a restaurant that is overly hyped for good reason. As the first pizzeria in the United States, it has not only the history element to it but cooks pizza the right way, the traditional, Italian way in a wood fire oven. Their pizza menu isn’t hugely varied, however, every pizza they offer is exactly what is said on the tin with the true pizza flavours coming through. I had the ‘ Buddy’s Cake Boss Pizza’ which offered a dreamy combination of prosciutto ham, rocket, mozzarella and romano cheese and it was as dreamy as you can imagine.

The interior in Lombardi’s also screams traditional Italy with the red and white checkered tablecloths, lingering scent of fresh dough, rustic wooden furniture and old school Italian music echoing through the air.

Arriving at the airport, the pair of us were jumping with excitement. The flight added to the anticipation as it was both of our first times flying long-haul so we lapped up all the free flight food and watched as many films as possible. On the plane, when we weren’t watching a rerun of Disney films, we couldn’t stop talking about what New York would actually be like when we arrived. What will the atmosphere be like? And the food? What about the Broadway show we had booked? We grinned enthusiastically as we contemplated and discussed our trip.

As we tracked the flight on the screen and got close to landing, arriving at JFK’s airport didn’t feel real. The captain announced the final approach and our smiles were as wide as the aeroplane’s wingspan. An evening arrival (handy if you want to avoid rush-hour traffic in to Manhattan!) gave us the opportunity to catch glimpses of the summer sun setting over the city, offering views of the iconic buildings as we got closer to the runway, Our anticipation grew the faster the aircraft descended towards the runway, as it tried to steady itself against the cross winds from the Atlantic and from the mainland (JFK is on Long Island which, if we’re being pedantic, isn’t connected to the North American continent with anything other than bridges!). I’ll never forget the feeling of excitement in my stomach as I could see everything I’ve been dreaming about come into focus. It felt as if we were IN a postcard. I’m not sure I even noticed the sound of the engines going into thrust reversal mode or the whirring of the flaps; I was that focused on what awaited us!

The city, for me, lived up to every single expectation. It had an electric ambience about it that you couldn’t get anywhere else and offered the excitement (which made it hard to go to sleep each night as I wanted more) I craved for my dream birthday trip.

You’re probably thinking, but where do I begin in planning this dream trip? Don’t worry, I’ve got the places you need to add to your agenda to ensure you have the time of your lives and it’ll be a birthday you’ll talk about in years to come. Oh, and you won’t even have to dent your debit/credit cards…at least not massively!

It may sound predictable as your first stop but is it a birthday break without a phenomenal shopping trip? Macy’s is what, for me at least, New York is known for in terms of department stores (sorry Saks, Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom, Bergdorf! Maybe you will get a look in on my next trip!) The outside of Macy’s just screams NYC. Without the Macy’s sign, I wouldn’t think it was a department store: the building itself is an attraction in its own right, a living, breathing museum…and a reminder of New York’s wealth and pre-eminence in the world of Finance and its ability to withstand crisis such as the Great Depression, the attack and fall of the Twin Towers, the dot com crash, the bank failures and subsequent financial crisis that was triggered in 2008 and, most recently, the stock market crash in the wake of COVID. If there’s one city in the U.S. that’s a symbol of American resilience it’s New York.

Macy’s opened its NYC store in 1858 but didn’t move to today’s location until 1902, and this is where the store gained its popular reputation. Even in today’s modern building, some of the original wooden escalators are still in place and you can use them like one did a century ago. Originally, there was a verbal agreement for Macy’s to buy the corner five story plot on 34th street but a rival department store, Siegel-Cooper, bought it instead and the owner of Macy’s therefore built the store around it, and, overtime, the Macy’s branding was placed on the plot. Since the 1900s, the store has been spruced up inside and out, with the aim of keeping the grandeur look. The exterior reminded me of the architecture I’ve seen in Europe, with its neutral palette and grand windows.

I’m a bit of a shopping browser, I love to see what’s on offer and when I was in Macy’s, we were both overwhelmed with the choices of clothing and accessories, especially when I arrived at the Kate Spade section (I wanted all of the handbags!). I was shocked at how big the store actually was. It felt like I was in some sort of luxury TV show as I swept my fingers inquisitively across each clothing rail. I didn’t buy anything as many of the items were out of my price range but the experience of actually being in the Macy’s store on West 34th Street was thrilling enough – and something I can tick off my dream NYC bucket list.

It definitely was a different kettle fish in terms of the shoppers. They had that air of luxury and entitlement about them, with the certainty of knowing exactly what they were shopping for. Blonde women with pressed suits and business-esque outfits, and men with their slicked back hair and brown loafers were among the many that passed my sister and I. In some ways, it felt like they were Alpha predators in their natural habitat, with an instinct honed to detect anyone  who doesn’t belong there. I didn’t exactly catch the chats of other shoppers but I felt their presence, and couldn’t help watching as they’d step up to the counter, ready to pay for whatever expensive item they desired. Looking at them, I just knew that only the finest facials and waxes would do for them! I think that’s one of the reasons I loved Macy’s: it gave me a chance to observe a certain type of New Yorker in their stomping ground.

Fifth Avenue is much more hype than it is wow factor, however, if you’re into shopping then it’s still a must-see on your trip. This street is for the visitors who have an exceptionally big budget so if that’s you, go rock and roll with the luxury brands that sit along the street. But if a Tiffany necklace isn’t in your price range, then Fifth Avenue is the perfect place to have a browse, window shop and take some goal worthy photos. New York can be very hot in the summertime, it depends which month you go in. In early summer, there can be cooler days so I’d recommend bringing a few layers, but as the heat intensifies, light summer dresses should be amongst your packing list – and will be a killer outfit for all your Instagram photos.

Fifth Avenue had an exclusive feel about it, like you were somebody when walking down the street. The people that passed me held themselves with their heads up high, paying no attention to the people around them, too obsessed with their phone and ensuring they entered the correct store. They had larger-than-usual personalities, as if they were on a mission to add to their already extravagant wardrobe with another bold item. I have to say, their aura started rubbing off on me and I noticed a perkiness and confidence about myself. The ‘rich-and-in-a-hurry’ feel of Fifth Avenue is something else, similar to Times Square with the bustle of traffic and flocks of people.

I went into Tiffany’s on my trip because well, you have to right? The atmosphere in there instantly made me realise my weekly budget for the trip wouldn’t even touch the sides of a Tiffany item, but it did give me a taste of the finer side of city shopping. Tiffany’s had a weird silence about it, not the kind you’d find in a typical high street shop. The shoppers in there were full of admiration, discussing with the cashier about the finer details of necklaces. Only a limited number of people were in each part of the shop, as if it was more like an exhibit than a place to shop.

For a more realistic shopping scene after the hype of Macy’s and Fifth Avenue, the Rockefeller Center is the place to be and my favourite spot for shopping. I love how around this area, there was a combination of both designer labels and your standard high-street names. I went into many of the shops around Rockefeller Center but J Crew stood out for me. J Crew had that hip-but-relaxed vibe about it. Its items and clothes were inclusive, less elitist.

For a more realistic shopping scene after the hype of Macy’s and Fifth Avenue, the Rockefeller Center is the place to be and my favourite spot for shopping. I love how around this area, there was a combination of both designer labels and your standard high-street names. I went into many of the shops around Rockefeller Center but J Crew stood out for me. J Crew had that hip-but-relaxed vibe about it. Its items and clothes were inclusive, less elitist.

The vibe of Rockefeller Centre had a similar ambience to London’s Oxford Street. The experience in the shops was just how I expected: unique, bustling and a bit of everything. Can I say that all of the shops stood out? But especially Micheal Kors and Cole Hann as they were both in direct view of the Rockefeller building itself. The age range of people was definitely a lot younger at Rockefeller Centre than it was at both Macy’s and Fifth Avenue, and I loved that. It’s that familiarity with people just like me which made me enjoy the experience even more.

Whilst in the Rockefeller Center for shopping, I would recommend heading up the Top of the Rock towards sunset. It’s no secret that New York has the most incredible bird’s-eye view and there are many spots in the city where you’re able to enjoy that. I would suggest opting for the Rockefeller Center over the Empire State Building as you’ll be able to get a full panoramic view of all of NYC, including Central Park and the Empire State building too.

If you head up the top just as the sun is about to set, then you’re able to experience the city in all its glory; in daylight, as the sun is setting and when the city is lit up at night. It’s like standing on the biggest Christmas tree with a city of possibilities ahead of you. And, there really is no better sight than a sea of skyscrapers in the night sky.

Without a shadow of a doubt, the Broadway scene is something that sets the butterflies in my stomach fluttering every time I think about it! Times Square itself is pure urban theatre: the way the lights create a faux day in the night, the buzzing sound of different types of music playing, and crowds of people filtering in and out…could there be a more appropriate prelude to a Broadway show? Who needs an expensive pre-show set menu when you could grab a hot dog and pretzel at Times Square and just soak in the energy from humans and machines!

Broadway attracts the kind of talent and shows (it’s not unusual to pay over $300 for the best seats in the house!) that London’s West End can only dream about (in fact, most British actors see a run on Broadway as the peak of their theatrical careers). For example, Al Pacino has had a long and varied career on Broadway, whereas he’s performed in the West End just once. West End? “Fuggeddaboudit!”, as they say in New York!

There are numerous musicals running at any given time but we saw The Lion King on my trip and loved every minute of the production. It brought the Disney film to life with a production packed of colour, emotion and power. The dancing was electric, the voices of the actors were incredible and thinking back to it, it’s one of the best shows I’ve ever seen. I’m a big West End goer so I wasn’t sure how Broadway would compare to it, but I would say on an atmospheric level, it’s a slight step up. The theatre itself was lit up outside, showcasing the Lion King branding and inside and had a very similar feel to the theatres along Shaftesbury Avenue in London. I loved how everyone I passed had the same anticipation in their voice to watch the show.

New York may be an iconic city, but it’s also known for its collection of green spaces including the noteworthy Central Park. The beauty of the park is that it stretches over two miles across the city, and has more things to do than first meets the eye.

The bottom half of Central Park is where there is the most going on including the Wollman Rink (the ice rink in the winter months), the Bethesda Fountain and terrace and a few more attractions such as Strawberry Fields and the Central Park Zoo. The Bethesda Fountain area was my favourite spot in the park because it was a perfect area for people watching and seeing the endeavours (from children playing games to business women taking important phone calls) that went on in the park, plus, there’s the calmness of water right behind me – adding a oasis of tranquility to the mayhem.

Even though it was busy, I kind of liked that as it offered the New York feel. It still had that busy hum about it, with people rushing around like they had a mission to complete. Do New Yorkers ever slow down? Everyone looked busy, determined and self-assured. There was confidence in the way people carried themselves in the park. Sitting on the actual fountain itself and looking around gave me a sense of belonging to the city, and finding a home away from home (albeit temporarily), and it’s a feeling I’ll always hold onto.

It wouldn’t be a birthday’ trip without some superb grub. New York’s take on Italy has to be one of my favourite areas of Manhattan. Little Italy is a quirky spot that still has some authenticity about the place and I could really see that on my visit. The buildings had that typical colourful and bricked look to them with red draped roofs over every restaurant scattered around the area. I may not have heard many Italian speakers on my visit, however, the waiters in the restaurants still had that Italian twang and you could tell it was their native language.

Little Italy is not as quiet as it used to be, considering the attention it has received from tourists recently. However, it is a prime location for many traditional Italian eateries, whether you’re in need of a pizza or pasta fix.

I loved how Little Italy has the rustic appeal to typical Italian streets with the colourful decor and charming folk. It can be tricky to pick where to eat when in the area, but Lombardi’s is somewhere you have to go. It’s a restaurant that is very overly hyped but for good reason: Lombardi’s was the first ever pizzeria in the United States and I can assure you, the pizzas are just as authentic as they are in Italy.

You can’t miss visiting the New York Library. I’m a huge bookworm and visiting the New York Library was one of those moments where I jumped with excitement. I’ve read many different types of books, but since picking up the YA novel of ‘Jessie loves NYC’ when I was sixteen, I dreamt of living out the city fantasy. And, I can say for sure that I was living out that exact dream, especially in The Library – it was one of those spots which really lived up to the hype. 

The library has that quiet appeal like every old school bookshop with books dating back hundreds of years. I walked around the airy space, the extravagant stairwells and couldn’t believe some people call this their local library. The stoned stairwells led up to rooms behind dark wooden doors filled with wooden shelf units of books, extravagant chandeliers, arched wide windows, terracotta flooring and a sea of computers. Local New York students took it in their stride. Paintings including murals from prehistory to the contemporary period covered the ceilings, door frames and each room had a different name; it was more like a museum than a library. I loved the quiet thrill of exploring the building and discovering different aspects of her personality, and her treasures, in every step. Who needs trashy reality shows and banal box sets when you can enrich the mind in a temple devoted to human intellectual achievement!

The New York Public Library origins date back to the 19th century. When the New York governor at the time died, there were two libraries of importance; the Astor and Lenox Libraries but neither were public. However, when both libraries faced financial difficulties, they decided to come together and that’s when the New York Public Library was born, and today, it sees 18 million patrons walk through its doors. The history is palpable when you visit the library, in the craft of the artwork, the collection of books and the woodwork.

I don’t think a girls’ trip to NY can be complete without visiting Manhattan’s neighbour Brooklyn. I only scratched the surface with Brooklyn but it whetted my appetite and l will definitely be heading back on my next trip. I loved Brooklyn because it had the slower pace to Manhattan and the residential parts of the borough had an almost suburban feel to them.

One of the things that make Brooklyn so interesting is the Brooklyn Bridge, perfect for dreamy views. You can either go over the bridge by car or by walking but I would suggest getting your steps in just so you’re able to see the gorgeous sights of the city in the background.

I spent a few hours in Brooklyn and it was nowhere near enough time to fully appreciate the joys of the borough. When we walked away from the bridge, we headed down to the ferry port area to get a view of the East River and Manhattan, reflecting over the smooth waves. It was one of those moments where I thought ‘Wow, New York is incredible’. After that, we pottered around the borough as much as we could in the limited time, passing the many blocks of terracotta housing, immersing ourselves deeper into the calmness. I don’t have much to recommend other than to go there and make up your own mind on what Brooklyn is for you – you don’t want to miss it, especially if the quieter pace of a city is a bit of you.

New York is a pretty accessible city by foot or by the subway system but, really, no trip would be complete without a ride in an iconic yellow cab. Now if you’d like to pretend you’re a part of the Sex and the City or The Bold Type cast, then you’ve got to get your practice in and nab down a cab. It can take some mastering but it’s all part of the fun whilst you’re in the city and to pretend your group are proper New Yorkers.

New York cabbies are full of character and it’s almost a pick of the draw of who you get when nabbing down a cab. In the cab back to the airport, our driver was full of life, chatting away about the history of the roads and how they have changed over time. I can’t remember the exact facts but what will always stay with me is his cheerful charm and how inviting he was of us, exploring a city he called home.

It won’t be a girl’s trip without cocktails and dancing the night away. New York isn’t short of places to drink and it can be hard to know where to go without spending an absolute fortune. But, the East Village is a neighbourhood to venture into for cocktail lounges, speakeasies and karaoke bars; there really is something for everyone. The East Village is busy, loud, central and good fun so an all rounder for a memorable night – and exactly what we loved about it. It’s a vibe different from every other part of Manhattan. That’s what I loved about New York, how each neighbourhood changed in pace, atmosphere and views.

The bar scene is unlimited here so it really can be tough choosing a place to visit. Some of the best places to visit would include The Ready Rooftop Bar for a cosy atmosphere and goal worthy views (the view is definitely more exaggerated with a couple of cocktails in your system and worth it, trust me) and Club Cumming for a night of either burlesque or variety shows on offer. The bar choice is wide but as you walk along East Village, I can guarantee you the right bar will stand out to you. We wanted to visit every single one!

New York. The place of unforgettable attractions, unique food establishments and well, New Yorkers and a city that’ll always leave my heart leaving more. You’ll return from New York with a buzz in your step, and memories with your girls that’ll last a lifetime.