Lisbon is more than just the‘tram- and- foodie paradise’ of Portugal, don’t let the endless Insta posts fool you! It draws you in with its combination of old and new, sacred and profane(those dark alleyways in the Alfama are so inviting after a balmy night spent drinking, dancing closely and flirting!). It would be a shame to follow in the footsteps of the ‘Insta-crowd’ and just hop from one photo-op to another while ignoring what one of Europe’s oldest and most diverse cities has to offer. I mean, going off the tourist trail to find out parts of the city that tourists don’t venture to (want to pick up some quirky art for your flat? Head down to Feira da Laura, also in Alfama, to see African masks and jewellery…made by Lisbon’s African residents, not some factory in China!), speaking with the locals to understand what makes them tick, how they feel about Lisbon and learning what makes Lisbon such a beloved city.You’ll quickly come to understand why many Portuguese have returned home to become Lisboetas…and why the city attracts new residents.

If Porto is the conservatively-dressed, clean-cut, port-swilling, nine-to-fiver, content and stable partner who loves diving into the history books rather than clubbing, and is maybe a bit too religious (all those churches!),  then Lisbon is the designer-stubbled, tight t-shirt wearing, bourbon-downing bad boy all the girls fancy! The wild and sexy fling you have when you’re on holiday…and tell all your gals about! The fling that you may never contact again but the memories of your connection will always stay with you. But, when the opportunity to re-acquaint yourself arises, how can you say ‘não’?

Arriving in this charismatic, historic, charming, and quaint city for a second time after five years, I was excited to see what had changed, how the city differed and if I’d love it as much as on my initial visit. The city’s colours, the weather and all the positive reviews I’d heard about Lisbon initially attracted me here. Lisbon is a bustling destination for tourists and locals alike, with a constant stream of people, traffic and things going on. It’s intense at times! But the intensity and throb of activity are part of the charm (don’t worry, there are quieter parts to the city if you don’t want to be caught up in the rip-tide of humanity) and I find them…thrilling. That was the case five years ago and still is, only more so, with more visitors and longer queues. Great for the economy but not so much for my patience!

Crowds notwithstanding, the sights, such as the San Jorge Castle in Lisbon were even more gorgeous than before, or maybe, the extra autumn sunshine won my heart over. Who knows? 

Lisbon keeps you busy. Even walking around is an activity as the hills are a workout but the effort is worth it because the buildings are incredibly colourful, and I couldn’t help but admire every road, such as Elevador da Bica and Pink Street. The pastel-coloured buildings stood out, but so did the shabby and worn-down buildings, charming in their own way. Many are still used as homes and it would be a shame if they were demolished to be replaced by trendy flats for the international nouveaux riche. The older buildings lent an urban authenticity to the city and stopped it from turning in to some Portuguese version of Miami’s South Beach or ‘Dubai-on-the-Tagus!’ The old and new complement each other, adding to the quaint charm. Travel magazines would probably use the label ‘rustic-chic’ but I prefer ‘Edgy Luso-urban’. Yep, we coin new phrases at Global Voyagers, we don’t resort to lazy labels!

There are many roads that stand out: the cobbled path, Costa do Castelo, leading up to the São Jorge Castle with its tasteful buildings that have been converted to restaurants, cafes, homes, and quirky shops selling ceramics, soft furnishings and souvenirs along the way. Whilst the roads, such as Miradouro das Portas do Sol (with its gorgeous viewpoint of the colourful Alfama) around the centre, too, as it amazes me how so many buildings, attractions and people can fit in one glorious city. You could try and see everything in one go but that wouldn’t leave you time to savour it, like a long, deep kiss.

The classic yellow trams passing through constantly add to the aural background. Known as a staple to Lisbon’s history, the trams have been around since the 19^th century when the city was among the smallest in Europe. In 1873, the company Carris launched the first horse cart in the city and with its first tram launch in 1901. Despite Lisbon seeming very with the times now, it was late on the bandwagon compared to others with the horse drawn cart. The trams, however, became a city feature and have been developed and modernised over time, but many of the classic trams are still prominent in the city.

I’m obsessed with trams:their traditional look and resistance to modernity make for a non-perfect bumpy and loud rides make a change from taking the metro. I love their character, design and how you can effectively get around on a vehicle which sometimes doesn’t have a modern exterior and interior. I should have really gone to the Carris museum to learn more about them! Riding a tram in Lisbon is a must if you want to delve in to authenticity. A rite of passage as you might say. The trams cost around 3 euro, depending on the route. I would say they were mainly used by locals if you don’t go on the touristy routes. In terms of space though, they’re not massive and the seats are pretty small but it’s a rather humbling experience. Humbling because it’s not a ‘out of this world’ experience but something wholesome and local. Although, the most popular route of tram 28 hits all the tourist sites, such as Basilica da Estrela and San Jorge Castle and inevitably fills with tourists.

Get off at Praça do Comercio in Baixa, the renowned square overlooking the water and a gorgeous spot to catch the sunshine and relax with a drink or two.Posing and preening here is par for the Praça. This square was the key spot for captains and merchants to plan sea voyages to Brazil, Southeast Asia and India. It features the iconic, bright yellow – the colour I associate with Lisbon!- archway to enter it and the surrounding yellow buildings were once the royal palace (they’re now government offices). The bright and sunny radiance of the square in general matches the colourful exteriors. I particularly loved how this square isn’t just beautiful but also a location for local markets, events and inviting restaurants.

San Jorge Castle(Castelo de São Jorge) is my favourite attraction in the city. I loved the historical significance– the hill it’s on has been captured over the years by the area’s Celtic tribes, then Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans…basically, anyone that ruled over the area or wanted to rule over the area –  and captivating views the first time I visited. And, the second time, I fell in love with it all over again. Set upon a stony hill, it takes either a lift or tram and a walk to reach the wonderful castle itself. From here I had a panoramic view of the city, the terracotta buildings and the glistening water of the Atlantic in the distance.  Visiting in early October, I didn’t think the castle would be busy, but I was wrong. The line wound down the cobbled streets! Luckily, I pre-booked tickets so I could jump the queue and I didn’t have to wait that long. I reckon the visitors were a combination of Instagram lovers and history buffs as I saw many like me wandering around snapping photos. Yet, there were many on guided tours, absorbing the information from the guides. 

Founded in the 10th century by the Moors, Dom Afonso Henriques captured the city from the Moors in 1147 and the Castle became a home for successive Portuguese kings. It’s also where   Dom Manuel I received Vasco da Gama after his sea voyage, the first by a European to India in the late summer of 1499. I dare say neither man knew then the significance of what had been achieved…and its ramifications for colonialism, capitalism and, ominously, human rights and race relations. A visit to the Castle is more resonant and profound if you know your history.

Given its considerate length of history (it always blows me away how long the castle has stood there), it took a lot of restoration work to become what it is today: a proud National Monument showcasing and enhancing the relationship of the old and new.I adored all the arched holes in each of the walls across the castle as they made quirky frames for the great views.

Another early medieval building (from the mid 12th century) is Lisbon Cathedral(known as Sé), one of the oldest structures in the city and situated on top of a curvy hill, hidden away from the city’s crowds and noise. It was built in the reign of D. Afonso Henriques, after the Christian crusaders took back the city from the Moors, for the city’s first bishop: the English Crusader Giilbert of Hastings. Inside, the cathedral was done up in the usual bright, stained-glass windows and beautiful arched ceilings. The stain-glass windows depicted the patrons of Lisbon, Saint Anthony and Saint Vincent.Unlike other cathedrals, there wasn’t any art on the ceilings, just a pristine, tile-like pattern with no images, just simple stone. Although a tourist attraction, it wasn’t my favourite cathedral but sitting on the steps outside made for a moment of peace. A moment to watch the trams trundle past as the bustle of tourists walked up and down the hill.

Another one of my favourite things about Lisbon is the hipsterand arty scene, with sights catered to that market and encouraging tourists to see more of the quirky experiences. I do consider myself a bit of a hipster and enjoy roaming around arty shops, grabbing a drink at earthy-looking coffee shops and taking photos for “the ‘gram”. The two places that come to mind are the LX Factory and the Pink Street. Although, they’re built for tourists and may appear too hip to some, many of the shops and cafes are small businesses, thriving on tourist traffic.

LX Factory is a restored factory complex, originally built in 1846, and today is an assortment of art-deco shops, restaurants and cafes. I loved exploring LX Factory! I enjoyed mooching around art galleries and browsing the city’s talent on show at the homeware shops and vintage record stores. Prices varied depending on the shop and item but, really, you’re paying as much for the experience as you are for the merchandise.

Whilst LX Factory had an old-school look and many small businesses, Pink Street was Instagram-central. With a pink road painted on the floor, this strip is filled with bars and restaurants and obviously a major tourist attraction. At night, the place comes alive with music and wild tourists (hen dos and stag dos, for example) partying and drinking the night away, and enough choice of bars to enjoy a night out the way you like it. This isn’t really where you come to listen to Fado!

Stepping away from the joy of a night out in the city, the beach, Cais das Colunas in Lisbon is tiny but a small spectacle, next to the Praca do Comercio, perfect for escaping the city bustle and admiring the sound of the ocean even for ten minutes or so.If you want more beach time, grab the train to Estoril or Cascais. I loved sitting on the sand and listening to the waves, enjoying brief moments of relative quietude by the calm ocean, with the still hot sun beaming down. I wouldn’t say it’s appropriate for swimming as I didn’t see anyone doing so and watersports aren’t offered either. As it’s near to the Praca do Comercio, there are plenty spots to grab a Sangria or a bite for lunch and many stalls selling refreshments.It’s more ideal for picnics in that respect.

A little further away from the hub is Belém, also a great area to explore and popular with tourists. Most of the city bus tours include Belem for good reasons as the sights there are phenomenal. 

The most popular are the Belém Tower and Jeronimos Monastery. I got to experience these sights properly for the first time when I ventured inside. The Belém Tower was built as a fortress between 1514 and 1520 by the Portuguese architect and sculptor Francisco de Arruda and commissioned by King Joao II – and that beauty shines through even today, the historical significance(it’s from the Tower that Portugal’s great discoverers set off on their epic voyages) and the gorgeous water views just make it all the more enchanting. I loved how rustic the building looked from the worn-down stonework but the aging beauty went hand-in-hand with the melancholia too: lots of sailors would leave here never to return.Glory doesn’t come without huge sacrifices. The top balcony opens to a stunning view of the water’s edge.Try and imagine those Portuguese armadas made of carracks, naus and galleons heading off in to the unknown… It made waiting for around an hour to get in and the 8.50-euro price tag worth it. 

The Jeronimos Monastery also had a long line, and although it took less time to reach the entrance, the attraction surprised me. The monastery was built to honour Portuguese discoveries during the country’s expansion in the 15th and 16th centuries. The construction began in 1501 and took a century to complete in total, commissioned by Manuel I after Vasco da Gama’s return from India. The craftsmanship that went into this building was momentous. I loved the cream-coloured walls with fine detailing of swirls and intricate curls that worked in unison to breathe life into what’s been labelled a ‘Portuguese Gothic Manueline architecture style’.I went on a bright sunny day in the afternoon and the cream-coloured walls reflected the light beautifully, enhancing its glory. It was the first time I came across this style and its unique look made a deep impression on me.

Falling in love with Lisbon wasn’t only about the sights; the food scene alone is enough to tempt people to visit. As the city caters to both traditionalists and tourists, the curious and those set in their ways, the choice of cuisine serves all groups, with a wide offering of Portuguese restaurants and Insta-friendly brunch places. Plus, you’re likely to find restaurants serving various European cuisines, quirky bars, gelato shops and vegan spots to suit every taste and lifestyle. The beauty of Lisbon is its diversity: this is where you come for authentic Luso-African, Luso-Macanse and Luso-Indian food, for example. Oh, and of course, Brazilian Caipirinhas!

The most satisfactory way to embrace the city’s flavours is to visit the Timeout Market. We saw this recommended everywhere before heading there, and I can admit IT WAS A DREAM. The market was busy and it was difficult to get a table, although it was worth the wait to sample all the wonders of the world’s cuisines and the best handpicked from the city. It seemed impossible to pick the right stall, however, I ended up choosing a delicious prawn and bean stew with crusty bread. I’m not entirely sure if it was a Portuguese dish as it was called ‘prawn and bean stew’ and it cost me around 7/8 euros. To finish, the Gelato Davero stall served up generous portions of ice cream in unique flavours, such as custard for an affordable price of 2-3 euro.

The seating arrangements were very much on a ‘first come, first served basis’. There were many long tables with chairs and taller tables with stalls and honestly, you’re lucky to get somewhere to sit as the market is very busy at prime time. You end up sitting next to many other people dining there, like a cafeteria style as we did, although I didn’t end up speaking to any. Most people seemed in their own world with those they’re dining with.The room was filled with a diverse range of people, families, groups of young women, couples, and older people, meeting up to grab a bite to eat. I couldn’t distinguish the locals from the tourists, they both seemed to be enjoying themselves. Good food is a good anonymiser.

The vendors were friendly; however, they didn’t have the chance to be personable as the lines were too busy and they had too many people to serve. It was more like a ‘place your order-pay-collect-find somewhere to sit’kind of place.There were plenty of options for those who like an alcoholic drink with their meal.

Back in the city, my favourite brunch and lunch places include Zenith Brunch and Cocktails, Floral and Fauna and The Green Room. 

Zenith brought in crowds of tourists and doubles up as a brunch venue with many mocktails and cocktails to enjoy at all times of the day. The décor was an Instagrammer’s wet dream, with neon signs, plants and classic wooden tables and what’s commonly described  as ‘a buzzing atmosphere’. The price really depended on what you chose, but the average is around £10 and the service very attentive. I enjoyed the delicious smoothie bowls and fresh juices and wish I had more room in my stomach to eat the pancakes on the menu too. The menu also offered a range of toasts, tacos, nachos, salads, egg dishes and burgers.

Although, Floral and Fauna ticked wholesome and sweet pancakes off my list, serving up a stack of chocolate and peanut butter goodness in an eco-friendly, wooden interior. The décor was basic yet natural with wooden tables, a Scandinavian design and plants everywhere. Service was friendly, attentive, and welcoming as if you were a local, visiting regularly. Customers varied; the cafe actually had a lot of families in there with young to older children. 

The Green Room is the complete opposite, a plant-based restaurant offering the introduction of greens and fresh vegetables for a lunchtime feature. I loved the chickpea pesto burger here!It wasn’t a Portuguese menu really, it reminded me more of a quirky vegan café I’d visit in London, without the Hoxton pretention and attitude, of course. The prices in Floral and Fauna and The Green Room were very similar to Zenith, expensive but expected for the city and the level of food quality.

Dinner favourites include Tapa Bucho and Lupita pizzeria. The Tapa Bucho is a beloved tapas place near the city centre and probably the best Portuguese tapas I had during my time in Portugal. I particularly loved the garlic prawns and the potatoes bravas; and, the croquettes were like placing morsels of culinary heaven on the palette. I loved the service here as the staff were so kind and ensured we had everything we needed. The décor outside was simplistic and natural, surrounded by plants. The focus here was on quality foodrather than slick, expensive and on trend decor.

Lupita pizzeria was a random find but one of gold dust as the pizzas were authentic, thin and delicious – the way every Italian pizza should be.Being half-Italian, I’m quite fussy about my pizzas!The pizzas varied in prices, from £8-£12 and the service was quick. The décor wasn’t much to go by with minimalist stalls and tables.But, when the pizza is this good who cares about décor!

Tapa Bucho was incredibly affordable as we got a lot of good quality food and drink for around £35. The place was buzzing with lots of tourists, and we sat outside on the balcony, taking in the fresh, salty, moist Lisbon evening air.It was as if the city and Nature were flirting with you. I could make out the tops of other rugged and classic Lisbon buildings, homes and hotels through the copious shrubbery up on the balcony.

Dessert and ice cream are a must in the city, with plenty of options available. I had to try the claimed ‘best chocolate cake in the world’ at Cafe Landeau Chocolate (opened in 2010) in LX Factory. This cake, made from a family recipe, was scrumptious; a combination of chocolate mousse and cake with a rich and sumptuous taste, leaving me wanting more of the Landeau Chocolate cake (costing around 4 euro for a slice). In Lisbon, even the desserts get you hot and bothered! The café only offered an array of beverages to go with the cake, such as tea and coffee. Cafe Landeau Chocolate’s décor reminded me of sitting in someone’s dining room or lounge with their quirky yet homely interior. For those more in to ice cream, gelato across the city is of top quality at Pastelaria Santo Antomino and Gelato Therapy. Gelato Therapy is a chain and Pastelaria Santo Antomino, a standalone eatery.

The creamiest and flavoursome gelato is in metal containers, and at those two gelaterias the ice creams lived up to high expectation. Gelato stored in metal containers is usually better quality as it’s kept at the right temperature.I enjoyed the delicate flavours of chocolate, hazelnut, banana and more. 

Whilst food is ranked high in the city for many reasons, nightlife is prevalent across Lisbon with the array of bars and clubs available to explore. I’m not a massive fan of partying or drinking but I couldn’t resist seeing what the bars are all about. Topo is a rooftop bar with electric energy(you’re moving and swaying almost as soon as you walk), making you want to dance as you chat to loud (although I was too busy chatting and taking in the views of the old buildings and residential side of the city) dance and R&B tunes. Dudes who don’t want to dance can hang out in the retro gaming area and couples or hook-ups moving in for a kiss can head to the balcony to enjoy the gorgeous view of the city (It’s a lovely spot for a romantic drink).The gaming area is a room filled with all the retro-style arcade machines where you can play old-school games like Super Mario. I was surprised to know that the venue lacked a DJ. I think adding a good DJ would enhance the atmosphere even more.A machine can’t sense the crowd’s mood and energy.The bar was completely packed as most of the booths and seats were filled and by the looks of it, it’s a popular bar for locals and tourists. It wasn’t an over-the-top place, people weren’t trying too hard to flaunt and there were none of the affectations of a London bar, which was refreshing. People weren’t trying hard to be sexy…which was kind of sexy.In terms of pricing, it depends on what you get, beers can be around £2, whilst cocktails around £10.

That’s Lisbon in a nutshell for me. It’s extraordinary how revisiting a city brings a level of familiarity but also a renewed sense of curiosity to discover what you haven’t seen or learned before. Lisbon has a tendency to trigger a domino effect of curiosity, constantly offering something new, leaving you wanting more. It’s a city to fall in lust with and love all over again from one visit to the next. Till, the next time for the haven of trams, quality food and hilly, cobbled roads.Maybe next time I’ll even have a cold shower and visit some of the museums!

One of my close friends recently celebrated her bachelorette/hen do in Lisbon, a city she had previously fallen in love with and wanted to re-visit. She had raved about the city’s perfect blend of culture, beach and night life; and the amazing food. The bride is a true foodie, who frequently visits nice restaurants across London, so her rave reviews of Lisbon got me intrigued and excited. With six wonderfully ambitious and interesting women on the trip, a range of personalities working across different industries, such as banking and law, came together. I quickly learnt that, amongst other things, we all shared a love of travel, food, and the bride of course. We, her dutiful bridesmaids, were under strict instructions to keep the trip tasteful. For the bride, this meant strictly no strippers and good food was to be prioritised over cheap alcohol and drunken nights. So, when planning the itinerary, we listened to her…. for the most part anyway.

A complete newbie to the Portuguese capital, I was delighted to meet a city full of character and authenticity; this was particularly notable from the locals frequenting the same spots as the tourists, something you don’t always find with popular city breaks. I had visited San Francisco just a month before and I couldn’t help but notice the similarities: both are artsy cities with an intolerance for bad food; both are characterised by quaint trams that travel through hilly streets; both are complemented by open water; and both share an Ibero-Latin heritage; there is a bridge in Lisbon which looks suspiciously similar to the Golden Gate Bridge, but I will get to that later. Both cities also run at the kind of leisurely pace that compels you to be present in the moment. Lisbon, however, is more cosmopolitan, radiates much more colour and boasts the European heritage, eccentricity and charm that naturally develops from a long history.

A late arrival in Lisbon (due to a delayed flight) is no bar to a night out, as I found (Lisbon stays up late): I went straight to join the hen party – who were already at Club de Fado for a late-night supper- from the airport.  It wasn’t so much an entry as an immersion in authentic, live, fado music from the moment I stumbled in with my suitcase; I immediately began to feel relaxed and could feel the traditional Portuguese culture wrap itself around me (or, was it getting under my skin?). I found fado music to be emotive and powerful in a similar way to how I have experienced the opera and classical music, but with a very distinct Portuguese sound. Fado translates as “Fate” and the intensity and depth of the music certainly mirrors this. Whilst some songs were slightly more upbeat, there was a melancholic romance to some of the melodies I heard sung passionately over the guitar. For me, it was the perfect way to spend a first evening in the city and the perfect soundtrack to commencing our appreciation of the city’s traditions. It certainly had a calming effect after a day of waiting around at an airport. The other hens seemed entranced with the music too.

The atmosphere was warm and friendly, but when the live music began, the restaurant fell silent out of respect and admiration. Plates of traditional Portuguese food were already scattered across our table when I arrived. I tried the grilled prawns with garlic, a delicious seafood rice and a particularly flavourful and tender octopus and potato dish. My first taste of Portuguese cuisine reminded me of Mediterranean-style food but with more depth of flavour and spice.

Walking back to the apartment, we encountered a picturesque, narrow, steep, cobblestone street. Cobblestone streets are one of Lisbon’s trademarks and whilst it is attractive as a backdrop to a picture, it’s not exactly high-heel friendly – bring trainers! The street was called Rua das Farinhas and it exuded a lively atmosphere despite hosting only a few bars.

We were drawn into a Basque-Italian cocktail bar called quattro teste where we guzzled down some classic cocktails. Inside, it felt cosy but with a glamorous décor, achieved through the various shades of rich green paint on the walls and the glossy marble bar. The bartender was the sort of person who can just look at you and know what drink to make you. Whether it was a Negroni or an updated version of the classic Cosmopolitan, this bar is an excellent choice for a drink and a good gossip (predominantly about recent trips we had been on followed by a very “highbrow” discussion about our celebrity crushes) before a first night’s sleep in the city.

We brunched at several great places in Lisbon but Zenith was my favourite. A cosmopolitan-looking café full of plants and millennials with exposed brick walls and Bob Marley style tunes playing in the background which all contributed to a chilled energy. We sat in the mezzanine section where we overlooked the rest of the industrial-style, avant-garde restaurant. We couldn’t temper our excitement for our first brunch in the city and, before long, several conversations had sprung up at the table simultaneously as the friends of the bride got to know each other better (a mix of university, school and work friends). Whether it’s pancakes or Shakshuka that sets you up for the day, the food here will not disappoint. There are plenty of gluten-free and vegan options too. A variety of alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks are available including sangria or green smoothies and even a detox shot for the more health conscious. I opted for Eggs Benedict to start with, followed by French toast (which I shared with one of the hens). It consisted of blueberry jam, crème fraîche, mix berries, strawberry, almonds and mint leaves on whole wheat raisin walnut bread. I also tried one of the detox shots (containing spirulina, celery, cucumber, green apple and ginger) whilst waiting for my food to arrive as if that would somehow counteract the calories I was about to consume; it had a pleasant taste but with a bit of a kick. The service was friendly and efficient.

One morning, we were delighted to find a cool brunch place located between Intendente and Graca, on Rua Damasceno Monteiro. Curva, is a quirky cafe/bar/art gallery which offers a range of delectable brunch options; again, a plant- heavy vibe but against simplistic, fresh white walls. The cafe also has a shop and hosts art exhibitions too! The entrance is a large frame where huge doors have been opened letting the natural light flood into the long, thin café section. Initially, we were caught up eagerly discussing our excitement for a day at the beach, so we hadn’t noticed at first how long we had been waiting for our food to arrive. We were trying hard to distract ourselves from our sore heads from the previous day’s brunch and night out. It was particularly busy so we politely checked on our food and it was brought to us shortly afterwards.

I later talk about Java in respect of nightlife, but this rooftop bar/restaurant is also an excellent choice for brunch with beautiful city and river views.

The best way to work off a rich brunch is by strolling around the streets, especially those that were basically canvases for street art. We appreciated the impressive artistic graffiti that adorns the city. The city’s iconic graffiti has deeply historic roots (street art dates back to the 1700s) and has emerged organically, as the city itself grew. The graffiti tells a thousand stories across many eras. During the revolution in the 1970s, people turned to graffiti as a way to express their views. A piece that stood out to me in particular was “Tropical Fado in RGB Tones” painted by muralist, OzeArv in 2021 (photo below). I loved the use of bright colours to speak to the beauty of the birds and nature surrounding a feminine face being grabbed at by four hands. There are endless ways to interpret this piece for your own emotions. Part of the artist’s caption under this particular piece on their Instagram account read “An open space to the appropriation and projection of our senses because cultural identity is all of us…”.

We passed by a talented street saxophonist and stopped to listen to the soulful jazz music he was playing. Our walk took us to the gusty harbour, via the well-known, yellow square/plaza, Praca do Comercio, and we sat by the water to take in the views across the Tejo (Tagus) river which we later explored on a sailing yacht.

I’ve already mentioned the unforgettable experience at Club de Fado for dinner and live music, but there is a wide-ranging choice of cuisine in the city. With a bounty of fresh seafood at the capital’s disposal, visiting a good seafood restaurant is highly recommended.

At Ramiro, we enjoyed a whole selection of delicious seafood including clams, oysters and crab. With unassuming décor, but high-quality food, the atmosphere was down to earth. We were dressed up but we did not feel out of place. The staff were exceptionally friendly and gave us a complementary drink consisting of a lot of vodka; I can’t recall the other ingredients. The tables are snugly close to each other. At one point, a guy from the table of men next to us decided to turn around (uninvited and unprompted) to laboriously “educate” us on the wine we were drinking; and wow, could he whine about wine! The hens were not impressed. His friend, however, did successfully get the number of one of the hens so perhaps the oenophile was harmlessly playing wingman.

If a more glamorous venue is your style, you may want to pay a visit to Rossio, a rooftop restaurant/bar where you can expect a much more stylish and sophisticated environment with incredible views whilst you eat. Observing the guests that evening, the attire was a dressy smart/casual. I liked the music; it was jazzy-electronic-meets-Ibiza sunset and the ambiance was cool and vibrant. There seemed to be an unexpected juxtaposition, however, with the style of music and some of the formally dressed (almost suit-attire) middle-aged clientele that night. We consumed a tasty, but expensive assortment of dishes and cocktails. The oxtail croquettes, octopus pico de gallo, mussel tacos, burgers and pork katsu sandwiches are all great choices. Despite the hens’ relaxed attitude to spending throughout the holiday (yeah, we were living the Condé Nast life now), we felt after a few dishes and drinks that we wanted to pay a visit to the Time Out market to fill up further.

From the moment you walk into this food hall, the enticing and conflicting smells of savoury and sweet hit you. Sushi or street food? Doughnuts or Gelato? Sirloin steak in a bun, wine, cheesecake? This place is an alluring and devastating dilemma for the senses. If you are in a group of varying tastes, the Time Out market is the ideal place to please everyone. You can grab your food of choice from one of the stalls around the edge and return to your group to eat together at one of the long tables that run through the hall. Another thing going for the market is its light atmosphere. Rarely did it feel crowded, despite its popularity.

Prior to our first full night out in Lisbon, we surprised the bride when we brought her back to the apartment after a day of sight-seeing. We had decorated the apartment with beautiful balloons, banners, a selection of baby photos and lots of fun hen-do games such as prosecco pong and other tacky games which the bride loved…despite her earlier instructions. After finishing our hair and makeup, we all moved into the apartment lounge to play games, eat snacks and sing along to the 90s RnB playlist we had on.

Every bride needs to be a little embarrassed by her friends on her hen do, so we ensured our bride- to-be was wearing the obligatory sash and light up tiara/veil for our night out. She wasn’t happy about this and kept trying to take it off, but we ensured there was a penalty of a shot every time this happened. It turned out that alcohol was not a sufficient deterrent.

When it comes to night life, Java rooftop bar is the perfect place to set the tone for a night out. Think panoramic views, cocktails, an exciting and bustling ambiance making you feel confident that it is the place to be and putting you in the mood to mingle. It’s an extremely sociable venue: we ended up in conversations with stag groups and people from all over the world including France, Germany and South Africa. We liked the place so much that we returned to this rooftop bar a couple of days later for brunch.

After feeling sufficiently warmed up for the night, we headed over to LX factory, host to restaurants, bars, galleries and bookstores. It was only transformed from an abandoned factory yard to a hub of entertainment at the end of the noughties but it has, nevertheless, gained a lot of hype and traction. But, despite being a Friday night, the street was very quiet so we wondered if we had arrived too late to see the day time flurry and too early for it to come alive at night. We were still able to enjoy drinks and dancing together in one of the empty bars before moving on though. One of the hens showed us her salsa moves inspired by the Latin American style of music playing. Those salsa classes finally paid off.

If the pandemic has left you missing the overcrowded, sweaty nightlife we once knew and loved, then Pink Street is for you. Bustling bars and cramped clubs live on this pink-painted, Instagram- featured street. There are bars to drink and chat in (and outside of) and bars to dance in.  I have seen a lot of negative reviews about Pink Street online, predominantly about its lack of safety. I can only speak for my own experience on this one occasion. It felt as safe as any other bar strip filled with intoxicated people: have your wits about you. I wonder if its particularly bad reputation for safety derives from it originally being the city’s red-light district before it had a major overhaul and rebrand as a street that began in 2011. Whilst I have no negative story to report, it’s helpful to travel in a group and to be as savvy as possible when it comes to safety.

From Lisbon, you can be at The Ocean Beach Bar for an afternoon at the beach in a 30-minute taxi ride. The Tom Misch-style music and a classic beach club vibe full of bamboo and rattan décor with rows of planters, invoke a happy, holiday feeling from the moment you arrive. It’s a great place to get some group snaps or, alternatively, just to chill. On the beach, you can purchase two sunbeds and a parasol for around 30 euros and there is no entrance charge. From our sun-beds all we could see was the turquoise ocean washing over the smooth, golden, sand. Above us was a bright blue sky with the occasional, peaceful cloud. We all felt relaxed and immediately sunk into some down time whilst drinks were brought to us. Later, some of the hens went for a swim in the sea and had a beach photo-shoot whilst I drank cocktails and chatted with one of the hens about societal pressures on careers and relationships. Whilst we were of course missing our partners to some extent, we all have similar views of what a healthy relationship is; getting married does not change our desire to spend time with friends and travel. The trip was affirming that time with friends is truly important. Honest conversations, after all, allow us to breakdown the façade of perfection that parades on social media and to understand the reality that others live too. Mental health struggles, for example, are often not declared as a caption next to your holiday post on social media, but that doesn’t mean the person posting isn’t struggling.

Belem is the birthplace of the tasty pastel de natas – a must try, Portuguese delicacy. The scrumptious custard tarts were invented before the 18th century by monks at the Jerónimos Monastery in Santa Maria de Belém. Convents and monasteries used egg-whites for starching clothes and would often have leftover egg yolks which they used to make cakes and pastries. Consequently, sweet pastry recipes became widespread throughout the country. You can find the original version, ‘Pastel de Belém’ at Pasteis de Belém. We stopped by the famous bakery to purchase several of the fresh, warm, tarts before sitting in the garden of Afonso de Albuquerque to eat them. I’m not usually a fan of custard desserts but this tart, a gooey custard mouse encased in a crisp pastry, converted me.

Wandering around Belem admiring the colourful architecture while munching on a pastel is the ideal way to whet the appetite for a later, more culture-oriented visit. The Centro Cultural de Belém, the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos and the Torre de Belém are all interesting buildings that deserve to be explored and learnt about in more detail than we had time for on a hen-do weekend. The district has a wealth of sites to explore and is popular with touristy crowds. Our walk led us to the harbour from which you can take a boat trip on a variety of yachts.

History aficionados, especially of the Portugal’s colonial past should definitely stop at the “Monument to the Discoveries” (Padrão dos Descobrimentos), a 52-metre-high monument built to celebrate the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator. In the shape of a ship’s prow, it features more than 30 statues of historical figures (Vasco da Gama, Magellan, Dias, Saint Xavier, de Camoes to name a few) who played a big part in Portugal’s Age of Discoveries. We then set sail along the Tagus River on a stylish sailing yacht to watch the sunset. For a two-hour trip, the six of us paid around £180 in total and you do need to pre-book online. There was one other similar sized group of women at the other end of the boat, although they arrived so late, we almost had the boat to ourselves. We at least managed to snag the best seats at the front of the boat.

We sailed under the Ponte 25 de Abril (25^th of April Bridge), a burnt-orange steel suspension bridge that was reminiscent of the Golden Gate Bridge I had recently visited. It turned out that it’s based in part on two San Francisco Bay Area bridges. Its paint is the same colour as the famous Golden Gate Bridge, but the design is similar to the San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge. Our yacht tour guide informed us that it was built by the same company as the Oakland Bay Bridge too. Whilst the bridge looked similar, the impact was different. The large size of the Golden Gate Bridge against a vast setting left the observer feeling insignificant. In Lisbon, the bridge is smaller and not in as much contrast to its surroundings. It was an additional detail that perfected an already rich and interesting scene that you became of part of.

As we passed by the Cristo Rei (Christ the King) we learnt that it is a Catholic monument and shrine located in the city of Almada across the Tagus River, overlooking Lisbon. Inspired by Rio’s Christ the Redeemer statue, the 110-metre-tall Cristo Rei was erected in 1959.

We used our time on the yacht as another opportunity to play some hen games. We had video recordings we had asked the bride’s fiancé to record prior to the trip. We played the classic Mr and Mrs question game. “What do you think are the bride’s worst habits?” “this is difficult as there are so many….”, “what is your pet name for the bride?” and so on. The bride had to guess what her partner’s answers would be and then we would see his recorded answer played back. This game is perfect for hen trips as it then leads to the wider group talking about their relationships and many funny revelations. After lots of laughter, we watched the sun set over the Lisbon cityscape. As the sky returned back to blue and we watched the orange and yellow clouds dance above the dark blue horizon, the mood became calm and reflective.

We braved the heat to walk through the Bohemian district of Bairro Alto on a hot, sunny day and it’s really the best weather to explore the neighbourhood. The sunlight highlights the rich peaches, pinks and yellows that sing through the city on the buildings. Throw in a cyanic sky and the colourful buildings were even more beautiful to walk by. There were the ubiquitous cobblestone streets, colourful buildings and quirky shops but, thankfully, not the crowds in the day time. In the most charismatic part of an already charming city, I took some time for myself to read a book in an al fresco coffee shop whilst an idyllic, yellow and white tram passed by, the rattle of the metal and fleeting conversations providing an aural punctuation. Some of the other hens chose to have some alone time too so that they could really take in the city by themselves. I reflected on the trip and the wonderful ladies I had made memories with. I felt revived for our return to England and will certainly return to Lisbon on more than one occasion to soak up the endless culture on offer here.

In the summer of 2018, I encountered an island, way to the south of the southern tip of Florida, with the Atlantic Ocean to the east, the Caribbean Sea to the south and the Gulf of Mexico to the west. It is Key West, situated at the far end of the Florida Straits, the place from where you can look out over Cuba on a clear day, the westernmost island at the end of  a trail  of islands gushing out of  Florida in an arc. People look at the sky and realize how infinite it is, while simultaneously coming to terms with their own insignificance in the greater schemes of the Universe. But, really, you only need to look on all sides as you drive down to Key West to comprehend the vast expanse of water to feel your own minuteness. It’s witnessed continents splitting and re-forming, it’s witnessed the birth of mountains, on land and within its depths and it’s been home to more species than we’ve ever known. The water has been here long before we were and it will be here long after we’re gone.

Key West’s easy to get to but one can’t help but notice how isolated it is and perhaps that’s what attracted Ernest Hemingway…or maybe it was the Latin, predominantly Cuban flavour and culture. After all, it was this Caribbean mixture that caught my attention.

I really love islands and my ideal life would be to live in a city by the sea, as the sea breeze always blows away my anxiety and sadness. I’m calmed when I look out to sea. After searching the various islands in the US, I noticed Key West. I thought it was super cool that it was so close to Cuba, and I love driving on the Transoceanic Highway; it’s when I’m most relaxed. A trip to Key West fulfilled both of those desires. But when it comes to my first impression of Key West (I hadn’t heard any stories about it before and it was my first time there), it actually stems from my memory of a film called To Have and Have Not, based on a novel by Ernest Hemingway, which, interestingly enough, was written in Key West and is his only story set in America.

Driving to Key West is a unique experience. I rented a small SUV in Miami and drove along Highway 1, which covers 200 kilometres, with bridges of all sizes connecting hundreds of islands, many of which are only as wide as the highway. The longest bridge is 11.2 kilometres long and can be seen from a distance

As I approached the bridge, I realised that I was physically linked to Key West and that it was finally not too far away from me! I could actually touch it! It was as if what you dreamt of when you were sleeping came true the next day when you opened your eyes.

I noticed there wasn’t much traffic on the road but I remember a cool vintage car passing me with a long, flat body adorned with graffiti stickers, and I said hello to the old grandpa in the driver’s seat with his flowery bandana and wearing a white — but there was some — what I suspect were beer stains (as I saw some empty beer bottles on the passenger side) printed on the clothes (Key West was obviously still a magnet for characters who wanted to live life according to their own rules); there were also college students who had presumably come on a summer trip, a carload of people talking and laughing, music playing super loud, boys and girls with faces full of youth and joy. There were going to be some sore heads in the morning! There were also families on holiday, and the child in the back of the convertible had a big sun hat on her face, which was almost covering her baby face. That baby was shortly going to gaze at and stamp at the seas as they lapped at her feet. A little ‘Water Goddess’ accepting fealty and tributes from Neptune himself.

As the shifting gears sliced the SUV across the road and Bruno Mars’ slow, sensual, 70s-esque ‘Leave the Door Open’ (an essential part of any “mixtape” for road-trips heading to the Keys!) plays on the stereo, sun and breeze enveloping the SUV, it’s a great feeling to travel south along the most beautiful highway- Route 1- in the US; and it is called the most beautiful road because the sea-sky combination is lovely — flowing white clouds dancing in the clear blue sky. I have rarely seen such a magnificent sight. Listening to the sound of the waves, feeling the footsteps of the wind in the blue sky, the Mercedes enjoying the feel of the road while I controlled it… I enjoy the expectation of exploring the unknown, the good mood feeding on itself and growing under the brilliant sunrise…the endorphin urges me to pick up the speed…I have to breathe deep…I’m on the precipice, in control but so easily able to let go… it’s all very heady, intoxicating and touches me deeply…maybe a boyfriend/husband next to me would have calmed me down by saying, ‘slow down baby, what’s the hurry? We got all day’.

I just think that driving over some of the most beautiful roads and bridges in the world to get to the end is what travel is all about. Meaning is not an end in itself, it is people’s understanding and perception of something that makes it meaningful, and everyone’s understanding is different and so is the meaning – some people think the meaning of travel is to have a conversation with yourself, because going to a new place will re-acquaint you with yourself; some people think being on the road is the meaning of travel, the process is most important and the outcome? It doesn’t matter. Others feel that travelling is meaningless, just relaxing and having fun; others feel that travelling is just spending money on sin – not only do they get tired of playing, but they also spend a lot of money, and they prefer to have afternoon tea in the city.

The endless blue waters can always inspire endless reverie and after arriving in Key West, I suddenly had the idea to go diving —— because I saw people out on the water on my way to the hotel, and I saw a bulletin board about diving, which I hadn’t experienced before, so I thought “why not go crazy? “I’m usually one of those people who likes to plan and it makes me feel very comfortable to have things very organised, except for the travel thing, I enjoy the experience more and look forward to the unexpected. Back at the hotel, I dropped off my backpack and planned to drive around, stopping to ask if I saw any snorkeling information posters or anything like that, without having to search for the nearest snorkelling spot or where the snorkelling programme was.

I stopped to buy an ice cream to cool off after about 10 minutes or so, and then I passed a place full of fishing boats, so I got out of the car to talk to the fishermen, of course trying to find out from the locals where the best snorkelling was for the money. There were two fishermen in a boat closest to me, one dark skinned but shiny, arms not very strong but thick looking, the other with a fisherman’s hat that looked like it had been flattened, I couldn’t quite make out his features, or maybe I just didn’t remember them clearly, the one with the hat was holding up the pole of the boat and his sweat was visible in the sunlight. They had a Spanish or Latin accent. This close to Cuba, I wouldn’t be surprised if they had Cuban ancestry. For a few seconds it felt like I was in a Hemmingway story…

“Do you know where I can go to experience snorkelling?”

“I guess you could ask at the marina information desk, they have the exact times there.”

I saw a 3pm snorkelling cruise and the information board said I just needed to bring my gear and meet at the pier at 2pm, the cost of the dive was about $15 per person, but there was no snorkelling gear provided for this event, everything had to be prepared in advance. With almost 4 hours to go before 2:00, I decided to check out the dive equipment nearby. For a snorkeling novice, I didn’t even know how to use an oxygen tank and what kind of wetsuit to buy. It was probably the best idea to go straight into the shop and ask the guide. However, the first question from the shop assistant stumped me, “Are you deep diving, or snorkelling?” She looked at me with a slightly puzzled expression, “Maybe snorkelling, did you see the dive information on the pier?” .

“Yes, cruise ship diving.”

“I think it’s snorkelling, don’t worry dear, I’ll give you the rundown on what kind of gear you should get.”

The goggles, flippers and snorkel were the most important, the boat usually had free life jackets available too, the new goggles tended to fog up, there was a special anti-fogging spray, but it didn’t help any more than saliva or toothpaste, they would still fog up, so the guide suggested not to buy them. She said I was brave to take on my first dive in uncharted waters. If she hadn’t said that, I wouldn’t have realised I was brave, it might have just been a new attempt, it seems it takes courage to admit you are brave too.

For the rest of the day, I bought a soda and strolled down Duval Street, where graffiti walls decorate the street with a Cuban cultural vibe, and the sun’s rays overlapped with the colours of the graffiti walls as if the sunlight had become somewhat softer. The graffiti was bigger than what I had seen in Miami, an entire wall was covered in graffiti depicting the seabed, with whales and many marine plants. Graffiti like this featuring marine life is the work of marine artist Wyland, who has painted many of these murals around the world in the hope of raising awareness of marine conservation and the appreciation of the underwater world in all its beauty. He believes that “my life is not only about the art, but conservation. My ultimate goal is to leave a legacy that inspires people of all ages.” Key West and these works of art are like soil and plants, they depend on each other; they nourish each other. The graffiti, I believe, enhances Key West’s appeal and becomes more attractive and attracts more people with an interest in conservation and art. It helps that Key West can is not filled with rubbish and city skyscrapers.

Duval Street showcases the cultural links between the Bahamas and Cuba, so the neighbourhood architecture is influenced by the cultures of both countries, with the bright red flowers of the native calla lily trees shading the Spanish-style buildings and providing shade for those dining and sipping on the sidewalk, to the accompaniment of vibrant and classical live music.

Duval Street is in the old town and generally the structures date from 1886 to 1912. The exterior of the buildings is characterised by pointed metal roofs, horizontal wood siding, gingerbread trim and soft paint tones. The oldest of these is a conch house built by Captain Francis Watlington in 1829. It is also the oldest house museum in the Key West, where visitors can see period furniture as well as maritime artefacts and family heirlooms brought by the captain!

Key West is also a treasure trove of literature and art. The first Key West neighbourhoods on the west side of the island are widely known as Old Town, not only for the homes of famous people, but also for the many famous attractions in Old Town, such as Mallory Square and Zachary Taylor Castle, to name but a few, the most distinctive of which is a small Spanish-style two-storey white building in the Spanish style, bought by Ernest Hemingway, a special building that is home to hundreds of cats to this day. These cats are all descendants of the cats Hemingway once bred. Many people who visit Hemingway’s home here always see the cats jumping around everywhere. There is also a story that Hemingway’s third wife was said to have mistreated the family cats when he was away, causing the two to go their separate ways. Throughout his life, he seems to have had few obsessive feelings, except for his love of writing and cats. Even at the end of his life, “Good night, my little cat” were his last words. The writer of the hard-boiled novel was at the end of his rope when he chose to kill himself with a gun. Before he died, he made proper arrangements for his cats: “Cats are the owners of this courtyard, they can enjoy everything here, they can play at will, they can rest in bed and have fun, they can contemplate the future in the study! ” So when you visit this white building, don’t forget that it is owned by kittens!

The Tennessee Williams Museum, located at 513 Truman Street, is also a place for theatre lovers to visit, as the playwrightcalled the island home from the late 1940s until his death in 1983, and his former home is now the Tennessee Williams Museum. By the way, don’t forget to check out the Tennessee Williams Theatre, home to the famous South Florida Symphony Orchestra. Another building worth visiting is the Harry·S.·Truman Jr. White House, where the President spent 175 days of his time in office. This time my trip was centred on the sea, so the historical buildings were put on hold. In fact, now that I think about it, I do regret not seeing Hemingway’s home.

Apart from literature and art, Key West is also a great place for food lovers. Buddha has classic Cuban dishes here such as Arroz y Frijoles Negros and Sandwich Cubano. Fernandez The Bull Cuban Grill’s roast pork with homemade black beans. For Asians the dish tastes a little salty overall, but the very slow cooking of the beans produces a creamy flavour and the ham and roast pork add a rich aroma, making it a very authentic Latin dish overall. El Siboney’s Valencia paella is a must!

Cuba still exerts a huge cultural influence over Key West. The work of Cuban folk artist Mario Sanchez (available at the Greene Gallery in Key West) often depicts the island’s food, including fruit stands, fish markets and cafes. Whatever the event or festival theme, food unique to the Florida Keys region will be found in the refreshments at any cultural gathering. Goombay, a food and cultural festival held every October in Key West’s Bahamian Village, is marked by wafting scent of curries, barbecue meats, conch fritters, Jamaican pies, Caribbean stews and vats of rum.

The time passed in a flash and as promised, I was at the pier at 3 o’clock to board the boat. If this is your first time at Key West, especially if you have not experienced snorkelling before, I’m sure the snorkelling cruise will be a memorable experience for you. You can talk and drink as much as you like on the boat, then go out on the deck to catch the sea breeze, or sing in one of the small rooms in the cabin where you can connect a Bluetooth stereo.

The boat is anchored in a clean, safe, beautiful, uncrowded area, and by now we are well away from land and out of sight of Key West, the sea level is calm enough for diving but the sea breeze is still blowing and I changed into my snorkelling gear with a new friend I had just made, she was an experienced dive buddy and I could tell by her tanned skin that she had been in the sun a lot. There are no instructors on the cruise ship, the ship takes you to the dive site and provides you with a life jacket and lifeguard, other things you are on your own. I don’t know how I got the courage to change into my swimming costume and jump in right now. A beginner snorkeller like me could start by putting on a hose – a yellow, very conspicuous thing. In case I don’t know where I’m swimming and I’m too far away from the boat, call the lifeguards so they can notice me. This was also for safety reasons. Once in the water, I put on my snorkel, which requires no skill or technique, just natural breathing and exhalation, and I was able to stay underwater for 10 minutes to watch the fish swimming freely in the water watching them run away shyly after a quick hello to me, and some bold fish who will sniff your snorkel or circle around your sponge hose, like a curious child about the world. For those like me who can’t swim, snorkelling is not difficult as with a lifebelt on, you only need to move your limbs slightly to move, except that you can’t move as you expect and who knows which way you’ll be running after 20 minutes. Snorkelling is also a physically demanding activity and I felt the hard work after my first half hour in the water, I went onboard for a cold Coke and rested next to the Coke bucket, tired but happy, which was the perfect plan to escape from Virginia! Iced Coke, snorkelling, sea breeze and the deck made for the perfect summer score. Only, with this score, there was only 2 hours of playing time – we only had 2 hours to snorkel. Within 20 minutes of our second dive, the captain informed us that we needed to get ready to go ashore and return to the pier. I rinsed off briefly in the cabin, changed into a simple, fresh look – a tank top and shorts – and got off the boat, not at all physically or mentally exhausted from the exhausting exercise, but rather happy and at ease, having not had an intimate conversation with nature for a long time. I call this “urban escape”, the act of ditching the phone and the computer and actually playing in nature and look forward to life.

When I got off the boat, I thought I would find a bistro for dinner, but I heard someone asking about paragliding, so I slowed down and listened carefully to the fact that you need five people to take part in the paragliding activity. So I went over and signed up to experience paragliding. It was a speedboat and the vest and shorts really went with the speedboat – “watersport chic!” The waves coming off the stern of the speedboat smash the heat, leaving you with a charge of energy. I was the first one to experience paragliding as the rest of the people were in groups of two. The speedboat is more like a powerhouse for the paragliders. Let’s remember when we were flying kites, if we wanted to get the kite to take off, did we need to run to help it go some distance before it would fly into the sky?

The speedboat accelerates and I go with the wind, rising into the sky at breakneck speed but there was no pulling sensation. The sky was as clear as if it had just been scrubbed, not a cloud in sight, blue and crystal clear, the air was as clear as ice as if it had been filtered. At that moment I wanted to think about nothing, do nothing. I just wanted to absorb the sun and the sensation of floating. I wanted to breathe in every breath of air kissed by the sea until I was tired. With the slow descent of the paraglider, I felt like hanging on to the enjoyment of that moment, hanging on to the blue sky, so that what remains is the satisfaction in my heart. I didn’t want to bring this kind of leisure and relaxation back to Virginia, Virginia is just Virginia, Key West is Key West, different cities mean different things and I didn’t want to confuse them, just leave the relaxation and happiness to Key West. I stayed in the hotel for the remaining two days, going through my photos and sorting out my emails from the last few days. Inevitably, it was time to return to Virginia where important things were waiting for me. And the Key West trip came to an end. This memory, due to the multiple limitations of the epidemic, may be difficult to have again, and more memories will have to be left for today’s words, and my camera memory card. But life is always saying goodbye to the past, and after the trip to Key West, I felt we should have more to look forward to when we face the unknown journey. At the end of the trip I went to watch the sunset when the tide was so high that I dipped my feet in the shallows where the fresh water was cool but the fine sand around me was still hot to the soles of my feet.As the sun sets, three or two lines of people are silhouetted in a few reflections, even the bottles in their hands, and the most common sight on the main road, on the porch and under the traffic lights of Key West, apart from the annoying seagulls, are the walking chickens. Originally sailors from the Caribbean and Cuba bred chickens for amusement and thus cockfighting, and with the discontinuation of the Cuban route, the chickens became islanders, enjoying the sand and sun and, well, popcorn with the tourists who came and went.Speaking of walking chickens, it is also interesting to note that most of Hemingway’s work was of interest only after his return from Key West, even The Old Man and the Sea, which, although set in Cuba, was written by Hemingway during his time in Key West. In those days, there was no Seven Mile Bridge, access was by passenger boat and the Tropic Cinema showed a few films.

The early morning Cuban Coffee Queen, where you have to stand for coffee and sandwiches and the Banana Café Brunch, which is not air-conditioned, but not too hot with the fan. It’s not that different from Carpe Diem Ice Cream.

But near sunset, people converge on the 0 Mile sign, or the southernmost sign in the country, to watch the sun lapping at the waves. The sounds of seagulls, waves and pelicans rise and fall, and the evening is a sum of dullness and loneliness, but the sun is falling and the waves are fretful. This is life, I think.

Ref Map: https://maps.redcross.org/website/Maps/Images/Florida/pagegen_fl.pdf

Ref Map: https://www.carfreekeywest.com/sites/default/files/partner-kit/Car-Free%20Map.pdf

Ref Map: https://www.nycgo.com/assets/files/pdf/MAP2_optimized.pdf