Key West – The Global Voyagers https://theglobalvoyagers.com Global Travel Premium Magazine & Article Mon, 15 Aug 2022 15:17:31 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.5.5 https://i0.wp.com/theglobalvoyagers.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/cropped-Global-Voyagers-Fevicon.png?fit=32%2C32&ssl=1 Key West – The Global Voyagers https://theglobalvoyagers.com 32 32 214881783 Culture, Cuisine and…Watersports! https://theglobalvoyagers.com/city-guides/key-west/yirou-douan/key-west-culture-cuisine-andwatersports/ Sun, 29 May 2022 10:24:25 +0000 https://theglobalvoyagers.com/?p=472

In the summer of 2018, I encountered an island, way to the south of the southern tip of Florida, with the Atlantic Ocean to the east, the Caribbean Sea to the south and the Gulf of Mexico to the west. It is Key West, situated at the far end of the Florida Straits, the place from where you can look out over Cuba on a clear day, the westernmost island at the end of  a trail  of islands gushing out of  Florida in an arc. People look at the sky and realize how infinite it is, while simultaneously coming to terms with their own insignificance in the greater schemes of the Universe. But, really, you only need to look on all sides as you drive down to Key West to comprehend the vast expanse of water to feel your own minuteness. It’s witnessed continents splitting and re-forming, it’s witnessed the birth of mountains, on land and within its depths and it’s been home to more species than we’ve ever known. The water has been here long before we were and it will be here long after we’re gone.

Key West’s easy to get to but one can’t help but notice how isolated it is and perhaps that’s what attracted Ernest Hemingway…or maybe it was the Latin, predominantly Cuban flavour and culture. After all, it was this Caribbean mixture that caught my attention.

I really love islands and my ideal life would be to live in a city by the sea, as the sea breeze always blows away my anxiety and sadness. I’m calmed when I look out to sea. After searching the various islands in the US, I noticed Key West. I thought it was super cool that it was so close to Cuba, and I love driving on the Transoceanic Highway; it’s when I’m most relaxed. A trip to Key West fulfilled both of those desires. But when it comes to my first impression of Key West (I hadn’t heard any stories about it before and it was my first time there), it actually stems from my memory of a film called To Have and Have Not, based on a novel by Ernest Hemingway, which, interestingly enough, was written in Key West and is his only story set in America.

Driving to Key West is a unique experience. I rented a small SUV in Miami and drove along Highway 1, which covers 200 kilometres, with bridges of all sizes connecting hundreds of islands, many of which are only as wide as the highway. The longest bridge is 11.2 kilometres long and can be seen from a distance

As I approached the bridge, I realised that I was physically linked to Key West and that it was finally not too far away from me! I could actually touch it! It was as if what you dreamt of when you were sleeping came true the next day when you opened your eyes.

I noticed there wasn’t much traffic on the road but I remember a cool vintage car passing me with a long, flat body adorned with graffiti stickers, and I said hello to the old grandpa in the driver’s seat with his flowery bandana and wearing a white — but there was some — what I suspect were beer stains (as I saw some empty beer bottles on the passenger side) printed on the clothes (Key West was obviously still a magnet for characters who wanted to live life according to their own rules); there were also college students who had presumably come on a summer trip, a carload of people talking and laughing, music playing super loud, boys and girls with faces full of youth and joy. There were going to be some sore heads in the morning! There were also families on holiday, and the child in the back of the convertible had a big sun hat on her face, which was almost covering her baby face. That baby was shortly going to gaze at and stamp at the seas as they lapped at her feet. A little ‘Water Goddess’ accepting fealty and tributes from Neptune himself.

As the shifting gears sliced the SUV across the road and Bruno Mars’ slow, sensual, 70s-esque ‘Leave the Door Open’ (an essential part of any “mixtape” for road-trips heading to the Keys!) plays on the stereo, sun and breeze enveloping the SUV, it’s a great feeling to travel south along the most beautiful highway- Route 1- in the US; and it is called the most beautiful road because the sea-sky combination is lovely — flowing white clouds dancing in the clear blue sky. I have rarely seen such a magnificent sight. Listening to the sound of the waves, feeling the footsteps of the wind in the blue sky, the Mercedes enjoying the feel of the road while I controlled it… I enjoy the expectation of exploring the unknown, the good mood feeding on itself and growing under the brilliant sunrise…the endorphin urges me to pick up the speed…I have to breathe deep…I’m on the precipice, in control but so easily able to let go… it’s all very heady, intoxicating and touches me deeply…maybe a boyfriend/husband next to me would have calmed me down by saying, ‘slow down baby, what’s the hurry? We got all day’.

I just think that driving over some of the most beautiful roads and bridges in the world to get to the end is what travel is all about. Meaning is not an end in itself, it is people’s understanding and perception of something that makes it meaningful, and everyone’s understanding is different and so is the meaning – some people think the meaning of travel is to have a conversation with yourself, because going to a new place will re-acquaint you with yourself; some people think being on the road is the meaning of travel, the process is most important and the outcome? It doesn’t matter. Others feel that travelling is meaningless, just relaxing and having fun; others feel that travelling is just spending money on sin – not only do they get tired of playing, but they also spend a lot of money, and they prefer to have afternoon tea in the city.

The endless blue waters can always inspire endless reverie and after arriving in Key West, I suddenly had the idea to go diving —— because I saw people out on the water on my way to the hotel, and I saw a bulletin board about diving, which I hadn’t experienced before, so I thought “why not go crazy? “I’m usually one of those people who likes to plan and it makes me feel very comfortable to have things very organised, except for the travel thing, I enjoy the experience more and look forward to the unexpected. Back at the hotel, I dropped off my backpack and planned to drive around, stopping to ask if I saw any snorkeling information posters or anything like that, without having to search for the nearest snorkelling spot or where the snorkelling programme was.

I stopped to buy an ice cream to cool off after about 10 minutes or so, and then I passed a place full of fishing boats, so I got out of the car to talk to the fishermen, of course trying to find out from the locals where the best snorkelling was for the money. There were two fishermen in a boat closest to me, one dark skinned but shiny, arms not very strong but thick looking, the other with a fisherman’s hat that looked like it had been flattened, I couldn’t quite make out his features, or maybe I just didn’t remember them clearly, the one with the hat was holding up the pole of the boat and his sweat was visible in the sunlight. They had a Spanish or Latin accent. This close to Cuba, I wouldn’t be surprised if they had Cuban ancestry. For a few seconds it felt like I was in a Hemmingway story…

“Do you know where I can go to experience snorkelling?”

“I guess you could ask at the marina information desk, they have the exact times there.”

I saw a 3pm snorkelling cruise and the information board said I just needed to bring my gear and meet at the pier at 2pm, the cost of the dive was about $15 per person, but there was no snorkelling gear provided for this event, everything had to be prepared in advance. With almost 4 hours to go before 2:00, I decided to check out the dive equipment nearby. For a snorkeling novice, I didn’t even know how to use an oxygen tank and what kind of wetsuit to buy. It was probably the best idea to go straight into the shop and ask the guide. However, the first question from the shop assistant stumped me, “Are you deep diving, or snorkelling?” She looked at me with a slightly puzzled expression, “Maybe snorkelling, did you see the dive information on the pier?” .

“Yes, cruise ship diving.”

“I think it’s snorkelling, don’t worry dear, I’ll give you the rundown on what kind of gear you should get.”

The goggles, flippers and snorkel were the most important, the boat usually had free life jackets available too, the new goggles tended to fog up, there was a special anti-fogging spray, but it didn’t help any more than saliva or toothpaste, they would still fog up, so the guide suggested not to buy them. She said I was brave to take on my first dive in uncharted waters. If she hadn’t said that, I wouldn’t have realised I was brave, it might have just been a new attempt, it seems it takes courage to admit you are brave too.

For the rest of the day, I bought a soda and strolled down Duval Street, where graffiti walls decorate the street with a Cuban cultural vibe, and the sun’s rays overlapped with the colours of the graffiti walls as if the sunlight had become somewhat softer. The graffiti was bigger than what I had seen in Miami, an entire wall was covered in graffiti depicting the seabed, with whales and many marine plants. Graffiti like this featuring marine life is the work of marine artist Wyland, who has painted many of these murals around the world in the hope of raising awareness of marine conservation and the appreciation of the underwater world in all its beauty. He believes that “my life is not only about the art, but conservation. My ultimate goal is to leave a legacy that inspires people of all ages.” Key West and these works of art are like soil and plants, they depend on each other; they nourish each other. The graffiti, I believe, enhances Key West’s appeal and becomes more attractive and attracts more people with an interest in conservation and art. It helps that Key West can is not filled with rubbish and city skyscrapers.

Duval Street showcases the cultural links between the Bahamas and Cuba, so the neighbourhood architecture is influenced by the cultures of both countries, with the bright red flowers of the native calla lily trees shading the Spanish-style buildings and providing shade for those dining and sipping on the sidewalk, to the accompaniment of vibrant and classical live music.

Duval Street is in the old town and generally the structures date from 1886 to 1912. The exterior of the buildings is characterised by pointed metal roofs, horizontal wood siding, gingerbread trim and soft paint tones. The oldest of these is a conch house built by Captain Francis Watlington in 1829. It is also the oldest house museum in the Key West, where visitors can see period furniture as well as maritime artefacts and family heirlooms brought by the captain!

Key West is also a treasure trove of literature and art. The first Key West neighbourhoods on the west side of the island are widely known as Old Town, not only for the homes of famous people, but also for the many famous attractions in Old Town, such as Mallory Square and Zachary Taylor Castle, to name but a few, the most distinctive of which is a small Spanish-style two-storey white building in the Spanish style, bought by Ernest Hemingway, a special building that is home to hundreds of cats to this day. These cats are all descendants of the cats Hemingway once bred. Many people who visit Hemingway’s home here always see the cats jumping around everywhere. There is also a story that Hemingway’s third wife was said to have mistreated the family cats when he was away, causing the two to go their separate ways. Throughout his life, he seems to have had few obsessive feelings, except for his love of writing and cats. Even at the end of his life, “Good night, my little cat” were his last words. The writer of the hard-boiled novel was at the end of his rope when he chose to kill himself with a gun. Before he died, he made proper arrangements for his cats: “Cats are the owners of this courtyard, they can enjoy everything here, they can play at will, they can rest in bed and have fun, they can contemplate the future in the study! ” So when you visit this white building, don’t forget that it is owned by kittens!

The Tennessee Williams Museum, located at 513 Truman Street, is also a place for theatre lovers to visit, as the playwrightcalled the island home from the late 1940s until his death in 1983, and his former home is now the Tennessee Williams Museum. By the way, don’t forget to check out the Tennessee Williams Theatre, home to the famous South Florida Symphony Orchestra. Another building worth visiting is the Harry·S.·Truman Jr. White House, where the President spent 175 days of his time in office. This time my trip was centred on the sea, so the historical buildings were put on hold. In fact, now that I think about it, I do regret not seeing Hemingway’s home.

Apart from literature and art, Key West is also a great place for food lovers. Buddha has classic Cuban dishes here such as Arroz y Frijoles Negros and Sandwich Cubano. Fernandez The Bull Cuban Grill’s roast pork with homemade black beans. For Asians the dish tastes a little salty overall, but the very slow cooking of the beans produces a creamy flavour and the ham and roast pork add a rich aroma, making it a very authentic Latin dish overall. El Siboney’s Valencia paella is a must!

Cuba still exerts a huge cultural influence over Key West. The work of Cuban folk artist Mario Sanchez (available at the Greene Gallery in Key West) often depicts the island’s food, including fruit stands, fish markets and cafes. Whatever the event or festival theme, food unique to the Florida Keys region will be found in the refreshments at any cultural gathering. Goombay, a food and cultural festival held every October in Key West’s Bahamian Village, is marked by wafting scent of curries, barbecue meats, conch fritters, Jamaican pies, Caribbean stews and vats of rum.

The time passed in a flash and as promised, I was at the pier at 3 o’clock to board the boat. If this is your first time at Key West, especially if you have not experienced snorkelling before, I’m sure the snorkelling cruise will be a memorable experience for you. You can talk and drink as much as you like on the boat, then go out on the deck to catch the sea breeze, or sing in one of the small rooms in the cabin where you can connect a Bluetooth stereo.

The boat is anchored in a clean, safe, beautiful, uncrowded area, and by now we are well away from land and out of sight of Key West, the sea level is calm enough for diving but the sea breeze is still blowing and I changed into my snorkelling gear with a new friend I had just made, she was an experienced dive buddy and I could tell by her tanned skin that she had been in the sun a lot. There are no instructors on the cruise ship, the ship takes you to the dive site and provides you with a life jacket and lifeguard, other things you are on your own. I don’t know how I got the courage to change into my swimming costume and jump in right now. A beginner snorkeller like me could start by putting on a hose – a yellow, very conspicuous thing. In case I don’t know where I’m swimming and I’m too far away from the boat, call the lifeguards so they can notice me. This was also for safety reasons. Once in the water, I put on my snorkel, which requires no skill or technique, just natural breathing and exhalation, and I was able to stay underwater for 10 minutes to watch the fish swimming freely in the water watching them run away shyly after a quick hello to me, and some bold fish who will sniff your snorkel or circle around your sponge hose, like a curious child about the world. For those like me who can’t swim, snorkelling is not difficult as with a lifebelt on, you only need to move your limbs slightly to move, except that you can’t move as you expect and who knows which way you’ll be running after 20 minutes. Snorkelling is also a physically demanding activity and I felt the hard work after my first half hour in the water, I went onboard for a cold Coke and rested next to the Coke bucket, tired but happy, which was the perfect plan to escape from Virginia! Iced Coke, snorkelling, sea breeze and the deck made for the perfect summer score. Only, with this score, there was only 2 hours of playing time – we only had 2 hours to snorkel. Within 20 minutes of our second dive, the captain informed us that we needed to get ready to go ashore and return to the pier. I rinsed off briefly in the cabin, changed into a simple, fresh look – a tank top and shorts – and got off the boat, not at all physically or mentally exhausted from the exhausting exercise, but rather happy and at ease, having not had an intimate conversation with nature for a long time. I call this “urban escape”, the act of ditching the phone and the computer and actually playing in nature and look forward to life.

When I got off the boat, I thought I would find a bistro for dinner, but I heard someone asking about paragliding, so I slowed down and listened carefully to the fact that you need five people to take part in the paragliding activity. So I went over and signed up to experience paragliding. It was a speedboat and the vest and shorts really went with the speedboat – “watersport chic!” The waves coming off the stern of the speedboat smash the heat, leaving you with a charge of energy. I was the first one to experience paragliding as the rest of the people were in groups of two. The speedboat is more like a powerhouse for the paragliders. Let’s remember when we were flying kites, if we wanted to get the kite to take off, did we need to run to help it go some distance before it would fly into the sky?

The speedboat accelerates and I go with the wind, rising into the sky at breakneck speed but there was no pulling sensation. The sky was as clear as if it had just been scrubbed, not a cloud in sight, blue and crystal clear, the air was as clear as ice as if it had been filtered. At that moment I wanted to think about nothing, do nothing. I just wanted to absorb the sun and the sensation of floating. I wanted to breathe in every breath of air kissed by the sea until I was tired. With the slow descent of the paraglider, I felt like hanging on to the enjoyment of that moment, hanging on to the blue sky, so that what remains is the satisfaction in my heart. I didn’t want to bring this kind of leisure and relaxation back to Virginia, Virginia is just Virginia, Key West is Key West, different cities mean different things and I didn’t want to confuse them, just leave the relaxation and happiness to Key West. I stayed in the hotel for the remaining two days, going through my photos and sorting out my emails from the last few days. Inevitably, it was time to return to Virginia where important things were waiting for me. And the Key West trip came to an end. This memory, due to the multiple limitations of the epidemic, may be difficult to have again, and more memories will have to be left for today’s words, and my camera memory card. But life is always saying goodbye to the past, and after the trip to Key West, I felt we should have more to look forward to when we face the unknown journey. At the end of the trip I went to watch the sunset when the tide was so high that I dipped my feet in the shallows where the fresh water was cool but the fine sand around me was still hot to the soles of my feet.As the sun sets, three or two lines of people are silhouetted in a few reflections, even the bottles in their hands, and the most common sight on the main road, on the porch and under the traffic lights of Key West, apart from the annoying seagulls, are the walking chickens. Originally sailors from the Caribbean and Cuba bred chickens for amusement and thus cockfighting, and with the discontinuation of the Cuban route, the chickens became islanders, enjoying the sand and sun and, well, popcorn with the tourists who came and went.Speaking of walking chickens, it is also interesting to note that most of Hemingway’s work was of interest only after his return from Key West, even The Old Man and the Sea, which, although set in Cuba, was written by Hemingway during his time in Key West. In those days, there was no Seven Mile Bridge, access was by passenger boat and the Tropic Cinema showed a few films.

The early morning Cuban Coffee Queen, where you have to stand for coffee and sandwiches and the Banana Café Brunch, which is not air-conditioned, but not too hot with the fan. It’s not that different from Carpe Diem Ice Cream.

But near sunset, people converge on the 0 Mile sign, or the southernmost sign in the country, to watch the sun lapping at the waves. The sounds of seagulls, waves and pelicans rise and fall, and the evening is a sum of dullness and loneliness, but the sun is falling and the waves are fretful. This is life, I think.

Florida Map

Ref Map: https://maps.redcross.org/website/Maps/Images/Florida/pagegen_fl.pdf

Key West Map

Ref Map: https://www.carfreekeywest.com/sites/default/files/partner-kit/Car-Free%20Map.pdf

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