I don’t normally write gushing reviews for five-star hotels (‘GV’ is not ‘Condé Nast Traveler’ and ostentatious displays of wealth just make me feel uncomfortable!). In fact, this is the first one the magazine/website have ever run. The President, you see, has a special place in my heart. Indeed, as one of Bombay’s oldest five-star properties (it opened to the public in 1973) – and posh Cuffe Parade’s only five-star hotel –  it has a special place in the lives of SoBo-ites (people who live in South Bombay, technically anyone living south of the Sea Link but us ‘Paradians’ are more selective; we believe anyone living north of Malabar Hill isn’t a true SoBo-ite!).

Maybe a qualification is apt here: I’d like to think The President has a special place in the hearts of So-Bo-ites. Bombay is a fast, fickle city. Few people here have time for nostalgia. I’m talking about genuine, lump-in-throat, eyes welling up nostalgia, not the cheap Bollywood stuff. Memories of unrequited teenage crushes now just trigger cringes and the once euphoria-inducing school friendships have been distilled to sporadic WhatsApp messages and rare get togethers. In a city that’s always moving, people move on, leaving memories in the rear view mirror. The perfunctory becomes the norm, so it wouldn’t surprise me if the significance of the hotel has waned, especially now that Bombay has multiple newer, brasher hotels all over the place.

Hotels -and restaurants- come and go in Bombay; the Natraj on Marine Drive, where my parents first met in 1964, and where as a child I’d go for delicious ice creams to Yankee Doodle, is now a gleaming Inter-Continental. Here’s hoping the President sticks around long after I’m gone. There will come a time when I’ll be too old to come to India – every trip takes me closer to the final trip – and it’s a sobering and melancholy feeling when I realise I will eventually have a final stay here.

I’ve been coming here since I was 7 .Weddings in the banqueting rooms were a laugh with other like-minded kids! We could run around with them for the duration that we were there…after we’d been introduced to the uncles and aunties, that is (Now that I think about it, The President’s staff must have had an inexhaustible supply of patience to deal with us!). My Mum really made an effort to get ready for these weddings. Do you have any idea how long it takes to put on a sari?! We, on the other hand got wound up over how long it was taking her! We felt we were missing out on crucial play time!

It’s been a family favourite for decades. My parents, especially my Dad, really liked Thai food at Thai Pavilion (Bombay’s first Thai restaurant, which is now 30 years old). And, he was partial to the pizzas at Trattoria but he would also complain about them. We never actually stayed here as a family and I only stayed for the first time around ten years ago but I can’t imagine staying anywhere else when I’m in Bombay…apart from home…which is a two minute walk away!

Cuffe Parade is a mostly residential, non-touristy area so you don’t get the kind of sleazy, hustling atmosphere that you usually do around the Taj Mahal Palace and Towers over at the Gateway of India and Colaba Causeway. We rarely see backpackers in Cuffe Parade, which is a relief! Backpackers and their need to score usually lower the tone of any area. Cuffe Parade has already had a ‘Shantaram’ (ok, he wasn’t really a backpacker but you know what I mean!), we don’t need another one, thanks.

A lot has changed since my first stay. The hotel has had at least one major refurbishment and the hospitality industry being what it is, many of the staff, from management (Mili Mukherjee, Karan Godhwani, Ashrafi Matcheswala and Kamlesh Trivedi) to food-and-beverage staff to concierges/bell boys have left. But, Carlton and Nayak are still at the Concierge’s desk and I know I can approach them with a request. Then again, I grew up in Bombay and I speak Hindi so I can pretty much get things done myself! Little Rajshree still works at Trattoria and she’s always happy to see me (and vice versa)! Hers is the smiling face you want to see at the entrance to Trattoria every morning. Chatty, perky Niraj has been transferred to In-room dining. I’m sure he’s taking good care of the guests in his new role.

The external construction on the metro station is now complete and the road diversions have been reversed. It’s quieter outside the hotel and traffic flows more freely. All in all, Cuffe Parade feels less claustrophobic and traffic-clogged now. But, Sassoon Dock and the Machimar Nagar are still just a short walk away so when catch comes in you can really smell it!

Check-in was efficiently carried out by the Duty Manager ,Yash. An efficient, professional and friendly DM inspires a sense of confidence in a guest and gets the stay off to a good start. He had his hands full, however, trying to check me in, getting me a welcome drink and dealing with a pushy youth who was part of some sycophantic media outlet. Some people in India just have no patience and even less discipline!

I liked the fact that check-in was in a separate alcove on the right. Unlike other hotels where you have to stand while checking in, the President offers seated check-in.

It was Independence Day the following day but the flag-waiving and displays of nationalism were kept to a minimum (there was a flag-raising ceremony on the lawn the following morning) in the lobby.

The bright lobby is basically a marbled,  air-conditioned oasis in a city wilting from the muggy August evening. The pianist was a pleasant surprise (there’s usually a musician playing a santoor or a sitar at lunchtime, either outside Trattoria or the Konkan Café. It’s a nice way to get one in the mood for lunch). I’m not sure if he took requests! There’s plenty of seating in the lobby; the combination of plump green and peach-coloured chairs, the large floral arrangement  at the front of the lobby and scent of jasmine emanating from it give you the impression that you’re walking through a super-sized, marble fruit bowl or garden! A nice contrast to the large, austere white marble pillars and dark marble encasing the elevator doors. I gather the lobby was designed by Swedish firm Studio Kin. It came as a surprise that such a renowned Indian brand would opt for a non-Indian designer.

At breakfast the following morning I noticed that the juice counter was now outside the actual restaurant, which is fine for guests dining at the rear of the lobby but couldn’t another counter have been put in to Trattoria? The carrot juice was a disappointment. It just didn’t taste fresh so I switched to masala tea, which perked me up. I needed to be perked up as I had only had a total of approximately 12 hours sleep over three nights and I needed to swim later that morning. The counter also offers chocolate and vanilla milkshake, orange juice and watermelon juice.

Foodies will be delighted by the selection, or as it should be known, a spread since the selection runs from one end of the restaurant to the entrance. There’s something for vegetarians, non-vegetarians and there are Indian and non-Indian dishes (most of the hotel’s guests are Indian so if you don’t like Indians and/or brown people stay the fuck away).

You do occasionally come across English cricket squads here, though. No, not the national squad, but the A team or development squad. I had a chat with Vikram Solanki, who was over with a development squad, at breakfast a few years ago. I didn’t have the heart to tell him I supported India! Otherwise, it’s rare to come across Brits here. The truth is, it’s just not affordable for them. This isn’t the India of the Raj, old boy. Going back to the food, there are  enough breads, cheeses and cookies to make a boulangerie envious. For those who miss Levantine cuisine, there are even mini pitas and hummus.

I went for my usual, masala cheese omelette and two slices of toast. The folded omelette, size notwithstanding (turns out it had more substance than the copy of ‘Business Traveler India’ I was flicking through with increasing derision!) had a teasing, golden plumpness, daring you to take a bite. I noticed that it had just the slightest hint of oil. If the omelette was a woman she would be a pert, curvy beach babe that knows she’s being watched and gets off on the attention.

How do they make this omelette? No other place in India makes it like Trattoria does (it’s usually on the greasy side in the north). I’ve always thought my Mum made the best eggs but Trattoria’s “MCO” takes the biscuit (or, should that be omelette?) Sorry Mummy! It was just the protein-rich (ok, yes, there were plenty of carbs, too! It’s hard to resist the croissants! But, hey, at least I refrained from tucking in to the cookies!) breakfast I needed. I felt pretty full. I have no idea how some of the guests have an omelette and a second course of parathas, puris, pav bhaji etc.,!

There are healthy options – freshly cut fruits (the grapes looked particularly succulent) and cereals – for those more disciplined than someone like me. Then again, if I’m swimming a shade under 1,300 metres in one go I can eat what I want! The quality of the food and service (friendly and efficient) make this an ideal place to take a lady the morning after, especially if you want to prolong your hook-up beyond a one-night stand. You can linger over a long breakfast as the M83-esque EDM plays, and the rain smacks against the large windows behind the bread counter, and get to know each other in the cold light of day (or, really, the cool embrace of Trattoria!).

I was pleasantly surprised to find out that although Eggs Benedict aren’t on the menu, the chefs can whip them up on request. Just like the omelette, they didn’t look like they’d be filling but they were. Turns out the Eggs Benedict come with a slice of cheese. Once again, India has taken a non-Indian dish and Indianised it…for the better. I’ve decided to switch between the MCO and EB for the duration of my stay! Although, it would be a shame not to try the fresh fruits at least once!

On a whim I decided to check out their French Toast, which came sprinkled with powdery sugar and maple syrup on the side. The presentation could have done with a side order of strawberries, they’re not that difficult to find in India. In fact, there was a noticeable lack of strawberries amongst the fruit offerings.

Trattoria is the largest of the three restaurants at The President so there’s plenty of seating but for a quiet breakfast it’s best to get here before 8am. Sadly, the large murals depicting rural Italy have been replaced by a mixture of wood panels and mirrors, giving the space a darker ambience, notwithstanding the well-lit buffet space and open kitchen. And, only the tables along the wall have good overhead lighting, essential for those who like to read as they dine. But the fading coppery, mustardy coloured cushions are looking a bit worse for wear.

There’s a spa; I’ve never used it but I have it on good authority from girlfriends that Jiva’s worth a visit. That’s right, my girlfriends got treated like princesses! There’s a salon (I don’t know if they do ‘Brazilians’! I suspect women of a certain age arrive in to Bombay waxed and vaxxed, ready for the heat!), compact gym (i.e. you’re going to have to limit your stretching) and a 15m pool. At 1.22ms, it’s not the deepest but it’s fine to catch up with your laps. I would request a pool view room if you want to keep an eye on it and make sure you don’t turn up when it’s crowded (given its size, it does feel crowded if there are more than a couple of people in there). There are no lanes so be prepared for boisterous kids to cut across the pool while you’re swimming!

It’s not heated so even on summer mornings there’s a quick chill to the touch but there was no such frisson-inducing coolness this morning as I dipped my feet to check. And, on Saturday morning the water was even more welcoming. I wasn’t even put off by the fact that there were already three other adults in the pool (surprising, considering it was just 9.20am). It’s as if the pool knew what I needed. If you’re comfortable in the water from the start you usually have a smoother swim. It basically has to feel like a liquid blanket around you and you have to both give in to it and work with it. That’s a  lot easier if the temperature is already perfect. But, this is August. The water’s definitely going to be cooler come winter. Here’s a tip for those cooler days, swim in the late afternoon, give the water time to warm up.

The pool comes in to its own at dusk; it’s lit but the area around the pool is dark and the more adventerous can get up to some…”acquatic naughtyness!” The early magenta dusk’s warmth, the cooling breezes (Cuffe Parade is built up but those breezes find you and man are they welcome!) and the underwater lights bringing out the blue on the  tiny (baby?) tiles all work to flick one’s ‘naughty switch’.

At 24sq m the entry-level (Deluxe) room is spacious enough for one person and cosy for two. A generous queen-sized bed means there’s plenty of room for a couple and snug fit for a family of two adults and two children. A sofa-bed/rollaway might be a real squeeze, however, if the children are over the age of 8. The Superior, Deluxe and Premium room are all the same size. They’re just priced differently depending on the floor they’re situated on and the view they offer.

There’s no tub in the bathroom but who has time for a bath these days? The shower is big enough for two adults so your night-time pool shenanigans can carry on in the shower! And, hey, if you get lucky you can see if you can get a third guest in to the shower! India is still pretty conservative; while the temples of Khajuraho might depict threesomes, they’re notoriously hard to pull off here and probably unlikely with an Indian woman (they’re not that liberated or experimental)! But, never say never, right? After all, you’re in the land of the Kama Sutra, where an ex porn-star, Sunny Leone, is now part of mainstream advertising!

Who knows how the night will unfold if your wife/girlfriend hits it off in the pool or gym with a high-powered, Alpha American female executive hustling for a deal and empowered by her sense of abandon and killer corporate instinct! Girly bonding leads to pre – dinner drinks in Wink, where the cocktails and confessions flow while you, the husband/boyfriend can’t believe your luck; the beats n’ bass make the girls dance in that unique way, swaying hips and lackadaisical waves…you just go with the flow and the flow, hopefully, will lead to your room… The President doesn’t have the stuffy pomp and history of her Taj sisters in Colaba, or the nouveau-riche designer outlets of the Oberoi at Nariman Point, and she’s all the sexier for it.

You weren’t expecting a conventional hotel review, were you? We don’t do conventional. We’re not ”Wandegraphic Traveler”!

My room faced the new metro station and the traffic junction joining GD Somani Rd and Captain Prakash Pethe Marg. Further out you can see the residential buildings of Colaba, with the creek as a backdrop. I often leave the curtains open so that I can view the sunrise while low-lying, grey monsoon clouds drift by. Dawn in Bombay is a time to observe the city shake off the humid night. There’s a brief respite before the heat and humidity return. The vegetable (sabzi-wallahs) sellers and bread-wallahs cycle in every day before the sapping heat and humidity take a firm grip. Soon enough the kids head off to school. Some taken by their parents, some in a school bus. And, the older ones grab a bus. I used to take the 138 to Churchagte. It’s still running. There’s even an air-conditioned version now.

Dawn winters are my favourite. I like the strong, chilly gusts. In a town that gets just a handful of cool-ish days, every gust is to be enjoyed. But in the monsoons I also like the dawn breeze from the Indian mainland bringing the heat of the plains to meet the winds from the Arabian Sea pregnant with the monsoon.

Apart from a print above the bed, the wheatish-coloured walls were bare. Some of the other rooms do have more artwork but, as this room was supposedly on a newly-renovated floor, I would have expected a room with more character, given the hotel’s history. l had to roll away one of the carpets by the bedside as it easily slipped on the wooden floor. It’s a potential health hazard, especially for elderly guests.

The hotel isn’t without its drawbacks. The two jewelers shops that have been here for years are still here. I’ve never actually seen anyone buy anything from them! And, the hotel desperately needs a bookshop. There used to be a small one here for many years, run by a pair of South Indian brothers. I used to love dropping in to check out the comics. In a parallel universe, I’d run a bookshop at The P! The jewelers shops should either be turned in to play areas for kids (the hotel promotes itself as family-friendly) or a bookshop. And, since the rooms aren’t large enough, maybe some space could be set aside on the pool floor for yoga and pilates?

What used to be known as ‘Sugar and Spice’ (the deli-cum-patisserie) is now called Qmin. There’s a good selection of sweet (pastries, cookies, chocolates) and savoury items…and coffee, of course but I’m always disappointed by the fact that they no longer offer the Hawaiian Chicken Salad. I used to eat tub loads of the stuff! But, like I said, Bombay doesn’t live in the past. I grabbed a veggie samosa and an egg puff (total Rs.548) for lunch. It’s what one would expect to pay in a five-star hotel. I tried their veg biryani bento box for lunch (the box, a can of Sprite and a tip came to just under Rs.1,000) on another day. It took me ages to finish the biryani! Qmin seemed popular with well-heeled 30something SoBo trophy wifies and MILFs in their tight jeans or linen trousers, stocking up on pricey snacks and sweets. For the most part it was a quiet lunch but it was ruined by a surly, bitchy, entitled customer who was unpleasant to the staff. As there’s just one till, you may have a long wait to get served if there are two or more people ahead of you.

The hotel may look the same on the outside but various changes have been introduced, especially during COVID. For example, pre-COVID you could get a number of daily broadsheets delivered but now you just get The Times of India and The Economic Times. And, instead of being delivered in a pouch like they were as recently as January, they’re just shoved behind the door handle. I didn’t see the point of having art on the lobby walls if there was no information about the artist.

I sneaked in to Wink with just half-an-hour of Happy Hour left. Apart from a group of colleagues celebrating a senior’s birthday, there was no one there. At first I thought it was lacking in atmosphere (the bar tender seemed lacking in enthusiasm and energy) but once the drinks started flowing, I stopped caring. There was an injection of energy once Vikram – he’s been working at Wink for years – came to the bar. Wink needs more Vikrams.

Four cocktails (a Black Russian, a White Russian, a Goatini and a Mirchitini – only Wink serves the last two) and a Chicken Mamallapuram came to about £40 (including a tip). The spicy Keralan dish was filling without adversely affecting the drinks, and vice versa. Wink’s menu is now quite extensive: they don’t have their own kitchen but they can get you dishes at the bar from the three restaurants at the hotel. So, you can literally mix Italian with Thai and Indian! The thing about Italian and Indian dishes is that they rapidly absorb alcohol so that by the time you settle the bill you’ve lost some of the buzz. Still, who wants to wake up with a hangover in this humidity, right?

The highlight of the evening for me was getting the young DJ, Aman, to play M83’s ‘Midnight City’ and ‘Method of Modern Love’ by Hall and Oates. I’ve lost track of the number of times I played that song on full volume(with the stereo system facing out towards the other buildings…sorry Cuffe Parade, y’all needed to be schooled!)at bed time when I was growing up. I’ve never heard that song at Wink and I thought it was high time. I’m heartened by the experience of meeting Aman. He refused to accept a drink and was quick to accept my requests. I hope the President keeps him on indefinitely.

If you would rather a more traditional Greek taverna then I would highly recommend Rakoumel. The decor was simplistic but stylish and the place was packed with older Greek couples and families all enjoying their weekends. Tucked down a side street this seemed the perfect place to rest some weary legs and try one of the many Greek salads on offer. I chose the Cretan Village Salad which was absolutely delicious. It came in a large bowl with enough feta to keep me going for a long time. The feta was seasoned with oregano and olive oil and it formed a delicious combination. For €6.50 I was nourished and my belly was full. They were extremely friendly here and very attentive. At one point, as I lazily stared into the middle distance somebody stole my bag and if it wasn’t for one of the other guests shouting out and then running after the person I would have lost it! Thankfully I got it back, it only had my jumper and a water bottle in it so maybe the would-be thief decided it wasn’t worth the hassle! It was a good reminder to pay a bit of attention, though.

One place which finds itself in the centre of Athens but would be just as comfortable in a tiny village on one of Greece’s many islands is the Pnyka bakery. Having weaved past an H&M and all the other usual chains I felt as though there was no point even looking at any of the food places in the area until I happened to take a small side street and walk past this wonderful place. Racks filled with delicious looking treats and a whole assortment of things which I had never seen before caught my eye. The fact that there was an older Greek couple leaving with bags stuffed full of goodies made me think this place must be worth a look. I chose a couple of pastries which I will admit that I have no clue what they were. They cost me less than €4 and they were an absolute treat. Incredibly flaky pastry and again a strong presence of dill and spinach. It was somewhere I would definitely recommend as a place to grab a few pocket snacks whilst you wander around.

The rules which I stood by in choosing good places for little street food bites or for a full meal are the same I would use for any country or city where I am going with the express aim of eating their cuisine. First of all, if a place is busy then it is usually worth trying. The next, and I would argue this was particularly important in Greece, is to avoid anywhere that advertises in English or has an English name. In Athens I was always keeping my eyes peeled for a bakery or taverna with purely Greek writing. Of course, there are some exceptions such as the Magic Kitchen which are serving more contemporary food and are aimed at a younger market. The last is to see who is eating there. All the places I ended up eating were full of Greek people with the odd tourist tucked in. This guarantees the best atmosphere and is also a sure sign that the place has a good reputation. Created by relaxed people chatting away with good music accompanying their discussions. It feels calm but also packed with possibility. Whatever you do, eat as much gyros as you possibly can and try out all the delicious treats that are on offer in the Greek bakeries.

The beating heart of the Basque Country, San Sebastian is a city to be savoured. As a coastal city flanked by farmlands, its cuisine fuses fishermen’s hauls and seasonal harvests. Sea and field collide in the kitchen, creating hearty, healthy dishes. If you learn only one Basque word in San Sebastian, it will be pintxos. Pintxos are the Basque Country’s answer to tapas, offering a gamut of small plates to be swapped, shared, and snacked on. The name ‘pintxos’ comes from the Spanish word ‘pincho’, meaning toothpick. Toothpicks are used to skewer ingredients together, creating towers of bread, peppers, cheese and meat. Pintxos are said to have their origins in the 1930s, evolving from the older Spanish tradition of tapas. Over the years they became a mainstay, emblematic of Basque cuisine’s artistry and variety.

At first glance, the difference between pintxos and tapas isn’t obvious. Meat-eaters find the familiar chorizo, chicken and seafood. Vegetarians face the simple Iberian staples: potatoes, mushrooms and eggs. However, pintxos differ from tapas not in flavour but in spirit. Pintxos offer a new way of enjoying food, one I hadn’t encountered in all my travels in and beyond Spain.

When it comes to tapas, there’s nothing better than sitting down in a crowded restaurant for a mosaic of sharer plates. Pintxos, though, will have you on your feet. They are best enjoyed on the culinary equivalent of a bar crawl. Practically every pub, restaurant and café in San Sebastian offers pintxos. Cheap, ready-made and small, pintxos can be ready in minutes and eaten in seconds. With their modest size and rapid preparation time, they encourage tourists to traipse from bar to bar on a pintxos-peppered walking tour.

If you’re anything like me, your mouth will be watering already. The prospect of pairing staple dishes with sea air and Mediterranean sun was a tempting one. Fresher’s Week antics with a culinary spin? Sign me up! The idea of a food crawl enticed as much as the food itself. However, there was a hitch. As a vegetarian, Spain’s menus are riddled with asterisks and small-print. What use is a culinary paradise if you can only try three of its dishes? As I researched San Sebastian’s cuisine (I am the type to read a menu online in advance), my heart sank. Squid. Hake. Pork. Beef. It looked like I’d bitten off more than I could chew.

As we arrived in San Sebastian’s gothic Old Town, my worries dissipated. Tough I missed some of the city’s most iconic dishes, San Sebastian still offered a deep-dive into Basque cuisine, agriculture, and history. When done right, a veggie tour of San Sebastian can be downright delicious. Read on for eight tips any vegetarian wayfarer needs to make the most of pintxos; if you don’t, your whistle-stop tour of Basque cuisine may be little more than a torrent of tortillas.

1. Don’t worry about meal times.

Eating is a little different in San Sebastian. Though it’s worth sitting down for an evening meal, you don’t need to set aside time for breakfast and lunch. If you really want to do it properly, you’ll need to take a more fluid approach to eating.

My group tended to head straight into the Old Town, ten minutes from San Sebastian’s train station. This is the foodie’s pilgrimage site, where pintxos fans converge in its packed streets. The main avenues are lined with bars and restaurants: you’d be hard pressed to find one that doesn’t serve pintxos. Bars touted their Basque delicacies on large chalkboards, beckoning to us as we drifted. We sank into a blur of bite-sized portions, cider, and traditional Basque wine.

We moved from bar to bar, trying one or two items per menu. We shared cider between us, sold in what looked like wine bottles. Bill paid and plates polished, we headed to the next stop. We’d taken in the atmosphere in bite-size portions, and were ready for the next offering. Squat basements, airy terraces, marble-walled restaurants…establishments came and went as quickly as the tiny platters.

Hopping from bar to bar burned off the odd calorie and helped us stay sober. More importantly, it gave us the lay of the land. We began to discern which stops have the widest offerings, which attract the larger crowds and—as is always crucial—which attract the locals. As a vegetarian, I soon learned which bars I could trust.

Walking around for an hour or two, stopping at four or five bars, is a great way to familiarise yourself with the Old Town. By the end of the first run you’ll have a full stomach, a favourite dish, and a few ticks on your San Sebastian bingo card. I spent between 40 and 50 euros a day, and I ate more than my fill.

By moving around the Old Town, you can also soak up the culture. Cathedrals, museums, and souvenir shops crowd the area. The area’s moody architecture makes for a nice palate-cleanser between feasts. The sulking grey stone contrasts with the sunshine, while salty breezes blend with kitchen steam. As you pass restaurants you can watch the chefs at work. Outside the bars, tourists and smokers settle for standing tables. Washing lines hang above the street, and as you approach the waterfront the building facades grow steadily lighter. The Old Town becomes more like an Italian coastal village. Affordable cafes vanish, too, so you circle back to the centre.

Between two bar stops, we walked through the San Telmo Museum, which charts the Basque Country’s history from the Neolithic to the Pre-Franco era. We toured the Koruko Andre Mariaren basilika after our third bar, feasting our eyes on religious art as we sobered up. As penance for entering drunk, we slid coins into the nearest donation box. The city’s culinary and cultural attractions occupy the same space, making it easy for you to switch from gluttony to galleries.

To really appreciate pintxos, it’s best to adopt a new way of eating. Forget about fixed meal-times and go on a taster tour of the Old Town.  If you’re a vegetarian, there’s no better way to scope out the most suitable restaurants and dishes.

2. Order some guindillas.

No vegetarian’s deep-dive into pintxos is complete without guindillas. Guindillas, or piquillos, are thin green chilli peppers that resemble broad beans. The closest equivalent in a tapas bar would be padrón peppers, although this may be one of many comparisons that Basque locals resent. Guindillas are often served coated in salt and sugar, offsetting their hot tang. Portions tend to be generous, yet not too spicy to provoke any serious regret. They’re less greasy than the ham and fish any meat-eating friends may be enjoying. They pair particularly well with San Sebastian’s ciders, especially when you come across a hotter variety.

Guindillas are harvested seasonally in the rural areas surrounding San Sebastian. In San Sebastian, the coast’s offerings are off limits to a vegetarian. Unless you’re a pescetarian, you’ll inevitably miss out on its hake and cod. In a city which prides itself on such dishes, this can feel like a serious loss. However, vegetarians can taste the fruit of the fields. They can take in the flavours and colours of the surrounding mountains. Guindillas are an icon of Basque cuisine, and they can prevent any vegetarian from sensing they’ve missed out.

Guindillas varied in subtle ways from place to place, which kept me circling back to them. They are also a great dish to order on the side. They can be nibbled at alongside bread, olives, or other savoury dishes. They’re a natural companion to pintxos, to be set in the middle of a crowded table and picked at between mouthfuls.

It’s worth noting that guindillas aren’t always listed as pintxos, which are always a restaurant’s cheapest and smallest dishes. They are often listed as raciones, which tend to be larger, more expensive dishes. Guindillas can cost a euro or two more, but they’re worth it at least once.

I particularly enjoyed the guindillas in Atari, a restaurant sat opposite an imposing 18^th-Century basilica, the aforementioned Koruko Andre Mariaren basilika. Despite its prime location, the restaurant was a pocket of calm. Atari bills itself as a blend of modern and traditional cuisine, even describing itself as ‘avant-garde’. The latter phrase conjures nightmare visions of Heston Blumenthal assaulting rotisserie chickens with liquid nitrogen and crème brûlée torches. Luckily, the interior is muted and simple. Large windows give a view of the adjacent basilica, providing plenty of natural light. Dishes are listed on the usual chalkboards. Table and bar service are fast and friendly. There were plenty of evening reservations, but the afternoon proved a sweet spot. While the outdoor terrace was crowded, it was quiet inside.

I told the waitress I was a vegetarian. Her reaction was one I’d seen across Spain: a gasp of pity and confusion. I wouldn’t have been surprised if she’d made the sign of the Cross. She recommended the guindillas, and I obliged. It was a good choice, and a generous portion. We split the guindillas while we watched tourists mill past the basilica. It was a perfect vantage point to step back and watch the crowds we had just been part of. By some miracle, Atari was quieter than the basilica itself. At eight euros per dish, the guindillas brought my bill to 20, including a tip.

As emblems of the region’s rural communities, guindillas merit a trip out of San Sebastian. Ordizia, 40 minutes away by train, has a weekly market where you can pick up local produce for fair prices. At the market, I left my friends at the butcher’s stand. I headed to a table spilling over with guindillas. It was worth the detour. The brown bag I left with cost little more than the train ticket. On top of that, of course, Ordizia has a bar or two, with cheap cider by the bottle.

3. Trust the tortilla.

Face it: it’s unavoidable. In Spain, the tortilla is as irrefutable as death and taxes, if not more so. Like any good staple food, it’s easy to make, a little fatty, and has a million local and familial spins on it. Bacon, mushrooms, cheese, spinach…the Spanish tortilla is a blank canvas on which the local cuisine’s signature, and a splash of personal colour, can be etched.

This grandiose introduction perhaps oversells the tortillas of San Sebastian. Though they were as excellent, warming, and cheap as they are across Spain, I did not detect any Basque spin on the snack. The tortillas I found in San Sebastian brought few surprises, even if slices were more generous than I found in Barcelona. It was like meeting an old friend, only to learn he hasn’t changed in the ten years you haven’t seen him. Still, to have a reliable meat-free dish available across Spain is something to be thankful for. I treated the tortillas as my Hail Mary, something to fall back on if a menu had no other green (v) signs on it. It was my pintxos in a pinch, my safety net. In the end, you’ll eat a tortilla in San Sebastian whether you want to or not. The tortilla will seek you out, no matter which bar you visit, no matter how you resist. It will be there, reasonable and hefty, and you’ll surrender to it. It’ll be worth it.

If you can persuade a local friend, host, or relative to whip up a tortilla, you’re golden. They taste all the more nourishing when they’re made to a family recipe. You feel initiated into some grand secret. If not, opt for a mushroom or cheese tortilla to add some extra flavour. You’ll be eating a lot of tortillas in San Sebastian, so it’s worth welcoming variety wherever you find it. Tortillas are also a great breakfast food, one that I found better suited the morning chill than the other pintxos on offer.

If you can’t find tortillas on the menu, look for revueltos. Revueltos are more like scrambled eggs, but they’re often served with the same additions you’d find in an omelette.

4. Try the croquetas

Croquetas, unsurprisingly, are like croquettes. These battered cylinders contain a savoury filling of meat, seafood, or vegetables. They have the guilty comfort of deep-fried food, but also taste authentic enough to justify three or four helpings. As we moved from bar to bar, I soon found croquetas to be my favourite. They brought the key elements of pintxos together: they were rich and indulgent, yet light enough to merit seconds. It was like their meagre size allowed a tighter concentration of flavour. The vegetarian croquetas often contained just one ingredient, usually mushrooms, furthering the notion that they were a kind of flavour singularity, deliciously compact and gone in an instant. Again, they felt familiar but fresh, and bore the traces of the region’s heritage.

The greatest endorsement of croquetas I can offer is that my meat-eating friends soon mimicked my orders. Though ham or seafood croquetas were available, the creamy mushroom croquetas reigned supreme as we staggered from bar to bar. The croquetas offered me that rare sense that the vegetarian options were not a bastardisation or simplification of the cuisine on offer; they were pintxos at their best, so good that they made the carnivores jealous.

5. Treat yourself to some churros.

To make it as a vegetarian in San Sebastian, you’ll have to stretch the definition of pintxos a little. Take the bars where my friends ate the iconic kokotxas, a dish made from a hake’s neck, one of the quintessential Basque dishes…I got chips. There were bars where they ate elaborate, teetering skewers of cheese and meat while I picked at peanuts. When you go to San Sebastian, bring your well-weathered diplomacy, your spirit of compromise. Churros, though, make compromise sweet. They are more an icon of Spain than the Basque country, but they have made steady incursions into San Sebastian. Whether this is to cater to tourists or because locals have been swayed is beside the point. The point is that they are good, and they pair nicely with the sour cider and evening air.

Churros are best enjoyed at the end of the night, when alcohol has simplified your desires and amplified the call of the city’s deep-fryers. Rather than heading to a traditional cider-house or trendy restaurant, find the cheapest, trashiest churros you can. These are street food, and no Michelin poseur, chocolate connoisseur, or air-fryer acolyte persuade me otherwise. Churros are best served in an unglamorous, bustling food hall.

The Churreria Santa Lucía offered us just that. Like many restaurants in the Old Town, it has no front door to speak of. The front wall is missing, creating a wide entrance into the churreria. Elderly couples, Basque teenagers, and tourist families all converged under its artificial lights. The sizzle of fryers and the smell of pure indulgence sent ripples of delight up our spines. Here was the glory of everything that’s bad for you, the sweetest self-sabotage. With a display and counter comparable to a chip shop, our hunger pangs even carried a tinge of nostalgia.

Our churros were cheap, oily, and delicious. They were the perfect end to a day of new flavours and flowing drink. If the average pintxos crawl is an odyssey, the churros are the homecoming. Order six, not twelve, and don’t wear a white shirt: the droopy chocolate sauce does not wash out.

6. Take a trip to the cider house.

Though I have sworn by the nomadic nature of pintxos, sometimes it pays to stay put. If you want to sit down and enjoy larger meal, the region’s sidrerías(sagardotegi in the Basque language)should be your first port of call. Sidrerías are cider houses that brew their own cider and serve set menus. These set menus can take some skill to navigate as a vegetarian, but the atmosphere and alcohol will make it worth your while. If you like to take a break from your city break, a sidrería is second only to the mountain ranges. The cider is also criminally cheap and deadly good.

We visited a sidrería on the outskirts of San Sebastian, while we waited for a connecting train to Barcelona. We walked twenty minutes to reach the sidrería, in sweltering heat. With no taxis in the area, we lugged our bags from the station to a quiet remote town. Heat shimmers hung over the faded yellow fields, and our thirst expressed itself in twinges of irritation. We rationed lukewarm water in plastic bottles, bickering over who drank the most. Passing cars turned to blinding lights as their metallic shells reflected the sun. By the time we reached the sidrería it had become an oasis, a safe haven. We went inside and posted up at a table.

The sidrería had long tables, with room for large groups. One hosted a local family, spanning three generations from elders to young children. The men watched us with suspicion or amusement. They were not hostile, but it was obvious that tourists were a rare sight this far out. Our waiter, however, made his hostility very clear. In ordering dessert but not drinks, we had committed a cardinal sin. The sidrería clearly expects its guests to order a full meal, perhaps so they can break even after selling cider so cheap. We didn’t have time, though, and ordered four wedges of cheesecake to go with our cider. If you do make the trip to a sidrería, go with a healthy appetite!

The cider, of course, was unmatched. Large wooden barrels were indented in the wall, with tiny taps on their front. These taps spurted cider at terminal velocity, crashing in our glasses like sea foam on the capital’s rocks. It was the best we tried, and the cheapest too. If the atmosphere was akin to a shady saloon in a Western, the player-piano falling silent as we said no gracias to the three-course offering, then the cider was the kind of drink I’d gladly get gunned down for.

I can’t testify to the quality of vegetarian food in sidrerías. I can only repeat the claims of our taxi drivers and hosts: this is Europe’s best cider, and the Basque country’s best culinary offering. Sidrerías are billed as the quintessential Basque dining experience, with a range of ciders to pair with the dishes. From what we sampled, these proud claims were fair ones. The cider was excellent and the cheesecake sublime. If you have a sweet tooth, or the post-churros queasiness is proving too much, this creamy dessert is your best bet. If you’re feeling reckless, you could even have both.

7. Drink wisely.

San Sebastian’s temptations come in bottles as well as on platters. Drinks menus are dominated by cider, and a sparkling white wine called txakoli. Both of these pair dangerously well with pintxos. Txakoli is light and refreshing, while the crisp ciders are subtler than the ciders you’ll find elsewhere. For aspiring connoisseurs, there are plenty of subtle notes to taste, smell, and see. In short, the drink is good, and it goes perfectly with the food. There’s also spectacle: waiters pour txakoli from a height, while cider-house taps spit like cobras. If all that wasn’t bad enough, it’s all dirt cheap, especially by the bottle.

For those of us who drink, trying these Basque mainstays is a key part of the San Sebastian experience. However, I would advise vegetarians to pace themselves carefully. With a smaller variety of dishes available, I sat at many a bar with just a drink to hand; my friends, meanwhile, had another dish with their ciders. This encouraged them to take it slow, and provided that crucial protection that food provides. I, meanwhile, grew steadily more hammered. You cannot convince me that vegetable dishes offer the same ballast against intoxication as meat does. Pair that with the August sun and you have the hangover from hell, one that you will struggle to alleviate with small plates. By the second day, I was lagging at the back as we walked from bar to bar, dipping into emergency funds so I could buy sunglasses and paracetamol. Pace yourself, and take no shame in the odd Fanta. Order your drinks with your food, and make sure you’re eating enough: with such small plates, it’s easy to lose track.

We chose Constitución Plaza for our evening drinks. Restaurants line the four walls of the plaza, with plenty of outdoor seating. After a long day of hopping from bar to bar, the plaza offered a nice change of pace. Though it is still within the Old Town, its wide-open space contrasted sharply with the narrow alleys surrounding it. The drinks are pricier here, which kept me on my best behaviour—mostly. The waiters poured txakoli from a height, lifting the bottle to their eye level with the cup at their waist. Naturally, we imitated, wasting half the bottle in spillage.

In terms of non-alcoholic options, most bars have mocktails on offer at reasonable prices. Keep your eyes peeled for a virgin sangria, which is tropical and refreshing enough to slake the day’s thirst.

8. Be wary of the Michelin star.

As San Sebastian has asserted itself as the Basque country’s foodie capital, Michelin-star restaurants have cropped up. I won’t claim that these restaurants don’t deserve their accolades. I’m sure the food on offer is delectable. I’m sure that some of the restaurateurs are locals who have earned their place in the culinary constellations. I’m sure that they’ve received glowing reviews and generous tips. However, speaking strictly as a vegetarian, I saw little reason to attend these restaurants. The three menus we perused offered pitiful vegetarian options. None of them matched the variety we found in cheaper restaurants. Though the seafood and meat options tempted my friends, the prices made our eyes water more than our mouths. It seems absurd to pay high prices for second-rate vegetarian options when there’s an array of cheap dishes to be sampled.

More fundamentally, I am unsure how the Michelin-star ethos can be reconciled with the spirit of pintxos. For my group and me, pintxos meant not just the flavours but the experience of bar hopping. Pinxtos meant going from place to place, meeting locals and fellow visitors, finding new spots, exploring, sampling. Pintxos turned the city into an adventure and a taster menu, and it is this that made San Sebastian so memorable. How can this experience be replicated in a static restaurant setting? For us, the core of pintxos culture was fluidity and motion. The Michelin restaurants had rigid set menus, which we could have found anywhere else in the world. If you’re coming to San Sebastian for pintxos, go all-in; your wallet will thank you.

If you do fancy a sit-down meal, go for a sidrería or one of the restaurants that don’t sell local food. There are plenty of Italian restaurants, creperies and burger joints that offer a change of pace.

With its rich agriculture and wealth of restaurants, San Sebastian had one of the best vegetarian offerings I have come across in Europe. If you’re looking to try its iconic pintxos, seek out the croquetas, guindillas, and tortillas for a spin on familiar flavours. Venture a little further to its sidrerías and markets, and don’t be afraid to fall back on dishes that won’t satisfy a pintxos purist. More fundamentally, be willing to move about, sample new things, and taste everything that a region has to offer. This is the essence of the experience in San Sebastian: you don’t need to sample the chorizo to find it. You just need a few euros, a healthy appetite, and a taste for cider—oh, and walking boots wouldn’t hurt, either.

To first time visitors Edinburgh will seem like an extraordinary city. Its Old Town and New Town are, together, listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites and the breadth of beautiful buildings is very impressive. I had been to this city once before to visit a friend who was at university here so I had an idea of what to expect. Personally, it is not a city I would choose to live in because it is too classy for me but it is a lovely place to visit at any time of year.

Edinburgh Castle, in particular, is spectacular and the views it holds across the city are truly lovely. This remarkable castle, built on the remains of an ancient extinct volcano, holds court in the city centre and it’s from here that you get a panoramic view of the city. She’s a haughty, ice maiden of a city, sitting as she does on the frigid Firth of Forth. Edinburgh possesses the arrogance of a capital city (albeit still in the shadow of feudal overlord London), and the smugness which comes from a combination of wealth (some of it tainted by immoral enterprises such as slavery), old and new, history, culture and academia. She knows she’s pretty and classy, in a hard-edged way. Really, Edinburgh is a big village. The centre is free of high rise buildings. There’s a golf course round the corner just next to a faceless Anglican church. It is lovely middle England, with round hills and the stain of centuries of rain.

Edinburgh is desperate to shake off her provincial feel (those Festivals in August help), eclipsed as she is by larger and brasher Glasgow. Edinburgh is the slightly judgy cousin with a well-paid job who never got caught with a bottle of vodka. Definitely likely to find a sensible partner to settle down with and make mutually beneficial tax arrangements. Glasgow is the more unpredictable youngster. Equally as likely to arrive with a black eye as an adopted cat.

Edinburgh can’t wait to strike out as a capital in her own right, free of the sinking ship (HMS Brexit) that is England. Edinburgh wants to throw her lot in with Europe’s diverse and vibrant cultures and economies. Scotland’s kings and queens, some of whom had European ancestry, have long had mutually beneficial dealings with their European counterparts for centuries, as have Scottish businesses. And, it will be a cold day in Hell if a true Scotsman supports England over France and Italy in the Six Nations!

At the same time, Edinburgh is inexorably linked to England by that chameleon, the Anglo-Scot, equally at home in the richer parts of Edinburgh as he/she is in deepest Sussex. Where will these mongrels end up when independence comes?

The Edinburgh of Trainspotting doesn’t exist, apart from maybe in the increasingly gentrified shadows; Leith is now full of sleek bars, artisanal cafes and over-priced flats. In reality, the era of rough British cities is in the past. Homeless people are moved out to provincial towns and the developers have replaced three generations of a family with soulless two bedroom flats that start at £250,000. The small satellite towns house the cleaners, the cities are one long row of Airbnb’s.

Indeed, Irvine Welsh himself has moved on from Edinburgh. This is a slicker, more international city than it was in the mid-90s with not a radge in sight in Leith.  And, the literary scene is more about Alexander McCall Smith and Iain Rankin, not to mention a certain English adolescent with magical powers.

It has also produced one of the most delicious ironies that I’ve ever witnessed. The statue of the highly influential philosopher and sceptic, David Hume, has had his toe rubbed for luck so often that the bronze shines through. The man who rejected the concept of miracles now has to endure the daily ignominy of having his likeness become a lucky charm.

Like all cities in the UK that are popular with international tourists (Oxford, Bath and Stratford-upon-Avon to name a few), Edinburgh is relatively pricey. But, you do get your money’s worth as the aesthetics are unique and you don’t seem to mind mingling with other tourists. The fact that there is less rampant commercialism here than in places such as London’s Leicester Square and Piccadilly Circus helps to improve the experience.

In this guide, I have included a variety of pubs and cafes that I visited during a week in Edinburgh. They are all places which will not break the bank whilst still providing high quality experiences and products. For any young travellers these are mostly places which have predominantly young clientele and are busy pretty much every day of the week. Edinburgh has a large student population which guarantees a constant lively atmosphere even in the darker winter months.

There are many great places in Edinburgh for a snug Sunday lunch when the weather is not perfect.  One such place in the New Town, which holds many thriving independent cafes, is the lovely The Cumberland Bar. The wood panelled walls and soft yellow lighting, which I think always creates a nicer feel, combine to lend the old pub a cosy feel. Ideal for those cold Scottish winters. We arrived in the late afternoon to find it relatively full and lively already. Like a lot of more old fashioned pubs it was sparsely decorated with just a few pictures here and there that blend into the background. Mostly it was a slightly older crowd with people sitting in twos and threes, quietly enjoying their drinks and each other’s company at wooden tables or on stools at the bar. I guess the alcohol eventually blurred the discomfort of sitting on hard surfaces. Everybody kept themselves to themselves. We were all cocooned in our own amniotic fluid, not feeling the need to engage with other groups. I wonder how any intrusion into another group would have gone down. This old British pub (I’m sure the Queen was mourned here but what about English ejections from various football tournaments?) is perfect for a quiet afternoon pint, without loud music blaring or big groups of students shouting. I dare say, on quiet weekdays you would find a few souls working on their manuscripts here, writers periodically trying to gain inspiration from the way the beer, or wine, catches the exterior light. Failing that, there’s always another pint or glass waiting to be poured for them.

The younger clientele stay here for a drink or two before heading to livelier places but a few young couples soak in the relaxed atmosphere, no doubt hatching unrealistic plans. The chatter here is at a volume conducive to chatting, even intimate whispers.

The pub has a full menu which contains all of the classic British pub staples if you have developed an appetite. This is not the pub to come to if you want Pad Thai or tacos, or other exotic cuisine. The pub is almost parochial in its Britishness but the hard-core fans are willing to overlook this. Neither is it the spot for a range of wines to pair with your burger and chips. But, they do have a range of vegetarian options from a cauliflower curry to nachos (begrudging concessions to modernity and alternative culinary preferences?) with vegetable chilli. A personal favourite is always sausage and mash and the large Cumberland sausages here were delicious and cooked perfectly. They were slightly crisp on the outside and luxuriantly juicy once cut open. The skin made a crackling sound just before releasing the juice, the mash mounds waiting to soak it up A perfect sign. There was also a good selection of ales. A pint and the meal came to just under £20 which is what I would expect for a pretty pub such as this.

For a more modern style the Bellfield Taproom has a wide range of craft beers and a lovely courtyard to drink them in. Their impressive list of beers, largely brewed onsite, allows them to have a full range of flavours and prices. As this is more affordable than many of the pubs further in the centre it ensures there is always a lively atmosphere. Groups of young people sat around tables chatting away whilst some inoffensive music played. The conversation and music mingling to create a gentle wall of sound that meets you upon arrival. I always find that this encourages me to open up and be a bit louder too as everybody else is engrossed in their own conversations. It is somewhere I would recommend on a Friday night when everybody is letting off some steam after work. It’s not a party venue but the informality of the place allows everybody to feel at home and begin to unwind. Alcohol-provoked intrusions and intermingling of cliques would probably not be frowned upon here. Interlopers aren’t interlopers here, they’re just friends you haven’t met. It’s the kind of place that would collectively lift the moment Deaf Havana’s ‘On The Wire’ comes on.

Whilst the proprietors are brewers by trade they are no slouches when it comes to cooking either. Their menu is not extensive but they have many fried bites and different specials that would pair well with their tasty pints. I was definitely intrigued by the breaded camembert bites but I had no right to be hungry so they will have to wait until another day. The pints varied in cost from between £4-£6.50 which is very reasonable for the quality. I would definitely recommend the Full Moon Stout for an unusual but delicious beer. It is at the more expensive end (a pint is £6), but it is one of the nicer stouts I’ve tried. Mainly though, I drank their Session Ale which was pleasingly hoppy helping it to slip down nicely (the £4.50 price helped too!).

Another pub with a lively atmosphere is the Pear Tree which is situated near to the University. It takes its name from the hugely impressive espaliered pear tree which dominates the front of the pub. There is not such an interesting range of drinks but if there is a sporting event on which you would like to watch this is the venue. They have a large outdoor screen and plenty of tables which soon fill up. I imagine this place is a heaving scrum whenever there’s a Six Nations match on. The fact it is sponsored by Guinness almost certainly means it is a popular spot for a rugby game. They do also serve food but I was just here to watch some Champions League football and drink a couple of pints of Guinness. Its proximity to the University and the relatively cheap prices mean it is packed with a slightly younger, studenty crowd. It is very tidy inside, more of a hotel bar feeling than an old cosy pub. The soft lounge chairs that are dotted around low tables add to the sense of cosiness, sending you subliminal messages to stay longer. The pints are around the £5 mark but they had a cheaper pint of Tennent’s lager. It isn’t for me but if you are on a budget this is usually the cheapest option in most pubs in Scotland.

One of the lovelier pubs in Edinburgh is Bennet’s Bar, this ornately decorated pub has been there since 1906 and exudes an old world charm. It is perhaps a little bit snooty but the staff were very accommodating and we didn’t feel unwelcome at all. The wood panelling and decorated tiles match the ale and whiskey selection behind the bar. Both seem slightly out of their time but make any visitor feel welcome. It’s definitely worth a visit if you want a delicious drink and a sophisticated aura. It is slightly more expensive but it is worth the price thanks to its hugely impressive selection of drinks. Of course, this is Scotland so there is an extensive range of whiskey. Personally I don’t particularly like whiskey much but I did try some of their whiskey from Aberfeldy as I was going to be visiting the town later on. It was actually not too bad but it may have helped that I’d also had a couple of Glen Spean ales. These are delicious and I would highly recommend them anytime you come across them. They are often only sold in bottles rather than draught but they are tasty enough to overcome this disadvantage. As this was a slightly more sophisticated place there was an older crowd here. I came here fairly late in the evening so they had stopped serving food but I would recommend it as a spot for a night cap. It was at the more expensive end with a pint being closer to £6 on average.

Another pub with plenty of heritage is the Stockbridge Tap, this pub displays the old style of half tiled walls. The food is now a more gourmet take on pub grub but the ales are uncomplicated. They have a wide range of guest ales which are largely from local independent breweries and as a result cater for all tastes. We had come primarily because their ale selection has a very good reputation. As a result I didn’t eat here and poured my money into some delicious Scottish ales. The one I would recommend the most was a pale ale called Rogue Wave by the Cromarty brewery. It was a very reasonable £4.50 and really tasty. They also had a whole mixture of unusual beers, one of which was Black Isle – Porter. This was more of a stout so it was a bit of an acquired taste but one I enjoyed. It was slightly more expensive at £5. Stockbridge is certainly an affluent area, with a nearby botanical garden and cricket club highlighting this. The pub itself flies a little bit more under the radar and is not as high end as some of the other pubs and cafes nearby. As a result there seemed to be a few locals propping up the bar and sitting at stools ruminating over their next choice of drink. The other occupants were sitting at pinewood tables on hardback chairs polishing off some sticky toffee pudding or quietly chatting away about the forthcoming week. It seemed like the kind of place two older small business owners would come and have a sandwich at Friday lunchtime and chat about all the things that had niggled in the past week. The clientele were a little bit more friendly and down to earth than in the busier, more student-facing pubs, which is exactly what we were looking for!

There are two great outdoors spaces to view this city from when you are walking off your previous meal. The ever-present Arthur’s Seat and Blackford Hill. Arthur’s Seat is a large hill which anybody can walk up and explore the various footpaths. From here you can look out across the entire city and the Forth Estuary. In spring this hill is lit up a bright yellow as the gorse that clads it comes into flower. It can be reached on foot from the city centre and this lovely walk will also take you past Holyrood which houses the devolved Scottish Parliament. After walking around these hilly streets it is highly likely you will need a bit of sustenance. Not far from Arthur’s Seat are some great places to buy some reasonably priced and delicious food. My favourite was the Nile Valley Cafe where you can buy delicious falafel and aubergine wraps. Their hummus is extremely creamy so I would definitely recommend adding it to any order. These wraps were available for between £5 – £7 and genuinely delicious. There is a reason it is always busy!

If you are looking for a lively atmosphere and an alternative food option I would also recommend the Boteco do Brasil. We had some Bolinhos de Bacalhau (essentially mini cod cakes) and a Caipirinha to grease the wheels. The Bolinhoswere £6.95 and the Caipirinha was £7 which is actually reasonable for a cocktail. Caipirinha is a classic Brazilian drink made from Cachaca, crushed limes and sugar. The fact they are pretty strong means only one will be needed! This bar has an infectious atmosphere and it is often full so be prepared to book a spot. It’s where the locals come to get their ‘Latin/Samba Fix’. Here, ‘let’s get a Brazilian’ means something else.

The bouncy reggaeton and mixing of cultures – is there a sexier, more vocal and passionate people than the Portuguese and Brazilians? And, boy do they know it! –  which draws in passersby. It’s loud here so forget about hearing entire conversations or engaging in profund discussions. Enjoy the food and let the Ibero-Brazilian vibes envelope you. Most of the staff are Brazilian or Portuguese so it feels like a real experience. My friend can speak Portuguese so we used that to our advantage to ingratiate ourselves. This seemed to help and many of those working here would chat away in Spanish and Portuguese amongst themselves. The fact the tables are pretty close together outside meant that everybody was part of the same group. It helped that the table behind us was a load of Glaswegians on a stag-do who were already quite a long way into their day. This meant the whole place was a lot louder and we could just join in as we pleased. They also have a full range of typical Brazilian foods which I had not come across before such as mariscos (fresh mussels and clams in a white wine sauce) and macaxeira (fried cassava). These are all around the £7 – £9 mark which is about how much a cocktail will cost you too. The food and the music gave the whole place a unique ambience: popular with people just back from a GAP year spent travelling around Latin America or those planning such a trip. Its popularity with the city’s homesick Brazilian and Portuguese residents (how do they deal with the cold?) is a given.  The injection of uniquely Glaswegian bonhomie into the bouncy, sensual Luso-Brazilian atmosphere just added to the experience and, frankly, stuffy Edinburgh needs this kind of place to help it shake off its occasional overly formal bearning.

Another international option is Greek Artisan Pastries. This small cafe has a few chairs outside the front and serves specialty Greek food and drinks. I had a delicious spanakopita and a slice of baklava which was not far from being liquid. All of these treats were delicious and handmade each day. Their ready-to-go snacks are around the £5 mark and extremely filling so they represent a very good deal. Within the shop they also sell a range of Greek deli items which can be tucked into a backpack for a snack later in the day. If you are visiting Edinburgh in spring then you have to walk off all these tasty treats by heading to The Meadows and admiring the rows and rows of beautiful cherry trees in full blossom. It is a very welcoming space and something you rarely find in a capital city. It is something which many cities are losing but these green spaces are so integrated and well cared for that I can’t imagine the city existing without them. It is encouraging to see them entirely free of rubbish and open to all comers. The cherry blossom is truly beautiful and I couldn’t recommend it highly enough if you are lucky to visit when it is in full bloom around early May.

Edinburgh, like all cities in the UK, is enriched by multiculturalism and the restaurant options speak to the diversity of cultures which call this city home. Of course, if you want Scottish food then you have to try Haggis, Neeps and Tatties. This was available in most of the pubs I have previously mentioned and can be found in most restaurants. Personally it is not my favourite but this combination of mashed potato, haggis and mashed swede (the swede is the ‘neeps’) is a mainstay in Scottish food. It is not a true Scottish experience without at least trying haggis once. I had already had my head turned by the arrays of other delicious foods that I have mentioned by this stage so I had no room for an extra meal!

If you have any extra time, a short train journey away is the lovely seaside town of North Berwick. On a sunny day this town is bustling and the lovely sandy beaches are a great place to enjoy some sunshine out of the city. On a hot day Alandas Gelato is the perfect stop for a tasty ice cream in the Italian style. After a day on the beach the pretty Ship Inncan provide refreshments. Again this is a classic British pub menu with Fish and Chips and Steak and Ale pie. They also have more seafood options such as smoked Mackerel and a Fisherman’s pie. These range from £10.45 – £14.95 so there is something for everyone. We had a refreshing pint of lager but after already eating a pistachio ice cream from Alandas I was not particularly hungry. As North Berwick is predominantly a tourist town the pub was mostly full of families which created a welcoming atmosphere. It is relatively sparsely decorated but the staff were very friendly. Owing to the opulent surroundings the drinks were at the more expensive end of the scale with pints costing around £6. I would certainly recommend North Berwick, however, as a little extra destination if you have already enjoyed your days walking around the many sites in the city centre.

Blisters notwithstanding, our hiatus in Edinburgh turned out to be a revelatory and pleasantly surprising mini-food (and drink) odyssey. In hindsight, I should thank the blisters for making an appearance because, had they not, we wouldn’t have experienced Edinburgh’s culinary offerings.

Rio De Janeiro is a vibrant city full of diversity, hosting people from all corners of the world, where everybody can feel accepted and at home. It is a place that truly has something for everyone. Known famously for being the city home to Carnival, the city lives up to its vibrant, chaotic and ‘good vibes’ atmosphere year round, not just during the festival season. Rio is often a first stop for travellers in South America due to its geographical location and subsequently cheaper flights compared to other countries on the continent. Rio also draws in a lot of holiday goers and families for their vacations, therefore making Rio a place of first impressions for many in Brazil and South America. So let me tell you a little bit about this jungle of a city.

I had the pleasure of visiting Rio early this year with my husband when we were nearing the end of our trip in Central and South America. We weren’t there for the period of Carnival so we got to experience the city in its ‘normal’ state. My husband and I also got to experience staying in both a hostel and with a local friend who showed us around, so we had both the tourist experience as well as getting the opportunity to be shown around by someone living in the heart of the city.

Out of all the places I have visited Rio was possibly the most important one to research beforehand. Which admittedly my husband and I did very last minute on a bus journey coming from the state Minas Gerais which was further North in Brazil. However we were still very happy we did that last minute bit of researching as it is crucial to know which is the right suburb of Riobefore going ahead and booking accommodation. We soon realized why this was so important as the bus drove into the city, which took a good hour, passing by some rather poorer and rougher areas of the outskirts of Rio before heading into the more modern and chaotic bus terminal. Rio immediately felt different to the state we had just come from with its vast expanses of wild areas, open fields, agricultural land and smaller towns and cities. Driving in to Rio you could sense it was a large city just by how far the residential parts stretched, many people cramming in to the surrounding area in hopes of a prosperous city life.  We had received many warnings from other foreign travellers and citizens of neighboring countries, like Bolivia and Paraguay, about the dangerous side to Rio, but like many other travellers, it did not put us off visiting at all. However we knew to be vigilant and take care of ourselves and our belongings, like you would anywhere in the world.

So where should you stay? There are two suburbs of Rio – Copacabana and Botafogo- that are recommended, both for the safety factor and for the location and vibe. They are right next each other and make up the area of the city that is most known for tourism. The two suburbs make for the perfect location to explore Rio as they are along the coast line, boasting some of the best beaches in the city, as well as being centrally located to the popular tourist destinations: Sugarloaf mountain and Corcovado mountain, home to the wonder of the world, Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer).

Nestled between these two magnificent sights, lays the main town of Copacabana which stretches into Botafogo. Here you will find lively streets with bars, restaurants and many shops, as well as shopping malls and quieter and fancy suburban residential streets. It’s the perfect area to find either a party hostel, a quiet Air Bnb or something in between. During our first stay in Rio my husband and I stayed in a quieter area of Botafogo in a hostel called Hospedaria Rio. The hostel was a perfect mix of social while having enough quiet areas and private rooms to make it a great place to escape to in the heat, or after a night out. The private rooms go from $25, usually including breakfast. Served buffet style, the breakfast was a continental breakfast consisting of tea, coffee and a juice option, a fresh fruit platter, a cold meats and cheese platter served along with various breads and a cake. The rooms were fully air conditioned and the bathrooms were shared, both male and female bathrooms were provided and they were cleaned daily. The décor was trendy but with a vintage vibe from big bookshelves and cozy sofas with an old typewriter on display. The main social area was a courtyard garden which even had a Netflix room at the back. I would highly recommend the hostel for both single travellers and for couples as it had the perfect atmosphere for both.The hostels provides a social atmosphere for solo travellers wanting to meet other people, as well as a quiet vibe that allowed for couples to spend time in their rooms or to also enjoy the communal spaces. It is also within walking distance of everything you could possibly need like restaurants, shops and pharmacies, and the main strip of Botafogo beach.It is also a short 5 minute walk from a large shopping mall called Botafogo Praia which has the best views over the bay and Sugarloaf Mountain from the top restaurant floor. My husband very much enjoyed staying in these suburbs. When you are travelling and you do not have your own form of transportation, it is nice to know that just by stepping out of your accommodation, you don’t have to go far to find whatever you desire.

During our time in Copacabana my husband and I stayed with a friend on a street one block away from the beach, and just off the main road that runs parallel to the beach.After staying there and talking to some locals, we quickly realized why Copacabana is such a popular spot for people to live in. The locals also very much enjoy having everything they need right on their doorstep, and the vibe of the town seems to have been attracting people from all over Brazil and the world for a long time. It creates a ‘vacation’ like atmosphere that never goes away and I think the people that live there enjoy not just tourism factor, but the feeling that they live in a permanent ‘vacation’. Especially having the beautiful beaches and the stunning weather, I know I would feel like I was living a holiday lifestyle. To stay in this popular area your choices won’t be limited. We passed by so many types of accommodation that you are sure to find what you are looking for. The main Copacabana beach is where the more well-established hotels can be found, all overlooking the sea and being just a step away from the hustle and bustle of the main street and all the night life and restaurants it has to offer. Just a few blocks back from the beach you will find quieter Bed and Breakfasts and I’m sure there are plenty of Air Bnbs in the many apartment complexes that make up most of the tree lined streets. As I said I the beginning, Rio has something for everyone.

Anything can be found in these suburbs of Copacabana and Botafogo. All your favourite and well-known fast food restaurants like MacDonald’s and Domino’s Pizza are always a stone’s throw away. Like many other metropolitan cities, a vast array of different cuisines can be found throughout these popular suburbs, attracting both locals and foreign tourists. But a must try when in Brazil and in Rio are the many snack style bakery restaurants. It is hard to recommend just one as there are so many in Rio and you won’t struggle to find these local places. They always have a large glass bakery style display cabinets and sell empanadas, pao de quejo (stuffed bread with cheese) and a variety of pastels, which is fried dough often stuffed with meat, although sweet items can be found too. These local delicacies are very common, the locals eat them as snacks, as breakfast or for late night munchies, there are so many to try so you will never go hungry in Rio.

If you are wanting something a bit more substantial than fried snacks, and you are looking to try something authentically Brazilian, then head to the restaurant Pensao Mar Rico located just off the main road in Copacabana. This restaurant was one of the places my husband and I were shown by our local friend who frequently eats there, along with many other locals. We went there twice and both times it was very busy, but for the local crowd it is more of a ‘eat and go’ type place so tables are usually available. Although they have a few typical staples on the menu like beans, rice and chicken, the menu changed daily so there was always a few specials to try. Although one particular dish famous to Brazil that you must try is: feijoada, a hearty bean stew, sure to be found all over the country, but probably best tried in local restaurants such as this one. With prices around just 15 Real (about $2.90) and everything you order comes with a large portion of rice and beans, some also including chips or salad, as well as whatever the main meat or dish is. It’s safe to say that one meal can easily feed two hungry mouths making this restaurant a very reasonably priced place amongst the high end more expensive parts of the city.

For those wanting something more familiar or maybe you have been travelling for a while in that side of the world and are getting a little sick of rice and beans. A famous favourite in Copacabana is the 24 hour pizza haven called Stalos (Café e Bar Stalos). Italians probably wouldn’t call it a pizza, though. The majority of the pizzas are not traditionally made and many come with the crusts stuffed with cream cheese, which is also drizzled over some of the pizzas. An absolute cheese overload. However the restaurant itself has a great atmosphere, at any time of the day you will see all of the tables full of people eating huge pizzas, either with coffee or with cocktails, and the front counters are always stocked with pizzas ready to eat by the slice. It is definitely worth a visit to Stalos, even just to grab a slice to eat on the beach.

Finally for the sweet tooth, in the intense heat of Rio De Janeiro, an absolute must try is Acai. Again Acai is very popular among both locals and foreign tourists, so it can be found literally anywhere. Even on the beach there are a few vendors carting their Acai up and down the beach for hungry and overheating people. Acai comes from a berry and is meant to be packed with antioxidants and lots of goodness. It is found in the more tropical regions in Brazil and some other parts of South America, so some will argue you can only find authentic Acai in those places. However, it is delicious and refreshing so don’t let them stop you. They make it like an ice cream or sorbet and usually you can add all sorts of toppings to it, ranging from healthy fruits and nuts to sweets and chocolates. Honestly, if you leave without trying Acai why did you even visit Rio?

People always say there are loads of things to do in cities, this is especially true for Rio, due to the location and unique natural landscape, this is a city with a LOT to do. Firstly, the beach! Not many cities around the world have beaches like Rio has beaches. Usually, to go on a beach holiday you wouldn’t think to go to a major city but you can in Rio. It has the sun, the sea, the sand and so much more. There are beautiful beaches stretching between Botafogo and Copacabana, all safe and clean and accessible (providing you stick to the main areas). Botafogo has a large beach where a large walkway stretches right around the bay, making it a popular spot for runners and cyclists. There is a smaller beach tucked right below the Sugarloaf Mountain which is popular for swimming and as a stopping area for small private yachts. Copacabana beach is the largest stretch with bustling evening markets, many vendors, and lots of parasols and loungers for hire making it a great spot for your beach day. When you have had enough of the beach, you should also be sure to check out some of the many museums and art galleries that Rio has to offer. The areas both boast a number of museums and galleries like the Favela Museum in Copacabana which provides a more unique museum experience (do be weary of wondering into the favela itself that sits just a few blocks back from the main street of Copacabana.) However there are also many historical and cultural museums, as well as art galleries that will be sure to keep you busy. Try the National History Museum (MuseuHistóricoNacional) or for something a little different and in keeping with the modern atmosphere in Rio, try the Museum of Image and Sound (Museu da Imagem e do Som).

An absolute must do in Rio De Janeiro is the famous Christ the Redeemer statue which gathers huge crowds of eager tourists every day, each squinting up at the bright sky to gaze upon the huge Jesus Christ statue. The famous monument is located at the peak of the Corcovado Mountain 700 meters up, overlooking the sea and the vast city below. Even on a cloudy day, which is unfortunately the weather we had while visiting Christ the Redeemer, the crowds are never ending and the top is always covered in people stretching out their arms to get that perfect photo. However it is well worth the visit up the mountain to see this wondrous site.

The other famous mountain Rio has to offer is Sugarloaf Mountain, perching right on a corner of the city at the edge of the water, Sugarloaf Mountain stands out for its unique shape and location and it also provides an incredible view over the city with a different perspective of Christ the Redeemer statue standing tall and proud over the city. I mentioned before that Rio has a unique natural landscape and that is because of the mountains like Sugarloaf and Corcovado. Throughout the city are tall mountains that seem to stick up randomly all over the place, with steep cliffs and jungle surrounding them and covering the peaks. Sugarloaf is much the same, it provides a steep hike up to the first mountain through the jungle, although it only takes about 40 minutes and provides a beautiful nature escape from the city. However if you are not feeling up to a hike in the heat, there is a cable car that goes from the very bottom to the first mountain, as well as the main cable car that takes you to the top of the otherwise inaccessible Sugarloaf peak. There is a bar and small snack restaurant and shops up at the peak, so it is really worth going up to the very top, although it is free to just go to the first mountain point. All in all, Sugarloaf Mountain is a unique thing to do in this rather unique city.

As for getting around, my husband and I used Uber to get around the city. This was a personal choice for us, mostly for the safety issue of Rio as we would not have felt safe walking around the city at night off the busy main roads. There is a metro available in these areas and we were informed by our local friends that it would be perfectly safe to use during the day to get around. Otherwise walking is a great way to get around each suburb if you don’t need to go too far and it is a great way to explore the streets and perhaps find some interesting spots.

There are many more things to do and see in Rio De Janeiro but if you can take away one thing from this guide, let it be that this is not your normal city and that you need some time to take it all in before you start to fall in love with the place. A trip to Brazil would not be complete without visiting Rio, so go for Carnival or just go! You will not be disappointed with everything Rio has to offer.

Venice really deserves the word ‘special’. I remember being curious as a child when I learned about this ‘city of water’ in my geography books, thinking that I would see it for myself when I grew up. But when I actually visited, I realised that Venice was far more romantic and magical than I had imagined – from the moment I stepped outside the station, a whole new ‘world’ opened up to me. Maybe that’s how the Venetian explorer Marco Polo felt when he arrived in China in the middle of the 14th century?

I have marvelled countless times at the magic of Venice: over 400 bridges, 150 canals instead of roads, and when I stand on the balcony of the Hotel Pont des Sighs and look down, I find the city sparkling at Christmas time! What some artists wouldn’t give to capture Venice in winter! The glowing waters of Venice shine in the sun like naughty children jumping around indefinitely. There are no cars and the only way to get from one place to another is by boat; the paths on the main island are so narrow and winding that it’s not uncommon to get lost, but I love that feeling because you never know what you’ll stumble upon around the next corner, and it’s so much fun to just go with the flow. Venice is a place where you can feel the unique Italian chic.

As the birthplace of the Renaissance, Italy’s cultural influence has continued from the Middle Ages to the present day. Italy places great importance on the preservation and continuity of culture, providing a constant source of life for art, fashion and design. As a result, a strong artistic atmosphere can be felt in every corner of Venice, and you can imagine that growing up in a place with an artistic atmosphere naturally gives you a superior sense of aesthetics and beauty. So not only are there many stylish Italian luxury brands backing you up, but it’s the little local clothes shops that are a showcase of the national aesthetic – for €10 you can buy a very chic printed shirt that looks better than Versace! If you’re careful, you can get a denim jacket for €15 that you’d have to spend £200 on if it was hung up in a London boutique. As well as the fashionable clothes shops, there are also many vintage cafes tucked away in the streets of Venice, each one decorated to reflect the taste of its owner.

Venice is also where one can dip in to the slow pace of life, notwithstanding the constant flow of toursists, and one of the pleasures is admiring the achitecutre. The real Venetian architecture as opposed to risible imitations around the world.
I gave Venice four days to explore the streets and I would also advise first time visitors to Italy to allow more time for Venice and I’ll tell you why, if you don’t want to walk around.

There is a local Venetian legend, if one is to believe the movie A Little Romance , that if lovers kiss each other under the Bridge of Sighs at sunset, they will be blessed with an eternal love. It’s just the kind of legend one would want Venice to be associated with. I suspect the Venetians aren’t particularly envious of the Veronese and their tired, mawkish and verbose legend of Romeo & Juliet.

The building directly opposite the Bridge of Sighs, Sospiri Bridge Hotel (Hotel al pontedei sospiri), the only hotel with a view of the Bridge of Sighs, is the best place to let go of your cynicism and watch lovers kiss in their quest for eternal love. Who says romance is dead!

This hotel has been on my travel bucket list for a long time, so the first stop in Venice was the Sospiri Bridge Hotel. I followed the crowd from the train station to the boat with a friend who was travelling with me. I thought I was buying tickets only on the boat, but no one checked the tickets until we got off the boat. To be honest, the location of this hotel is not so easy to find, we took the bus 5 stops to reach St Mark’s Square and then followed Google around for half a day before we found the entrance to the hotel. Because its reception is not on the main road, it is on a side road, the hotel entrance is diagonally opposite a small bridge, but there are bridges everywhere in Venice, this is not a sign to find the hotel. The canal in front of the hotel passes through St Mark’s Basilica and the Doge’s Palace, then round the Bridge of Sighs and finally joins the Grand Canal. As such, St Mark’s Square is only a two-minute walk from the hotel lobby. (Of course, it took us 20 minutes to find this hotel from St Mark’s Square the first time, and the navigation didn’t seem to be very useful in this part of the world; we followed it and it almost took us into the river!)

The reception desk is not very big, if you are dealing with a large crowd, the whole lobby(a little plain in comparison to the rooms, but there is still a vintage feel to it – warm yellow lighting and a baroque front desk and chairs.)  can barely accommodate 10 people, not counting one piece of luggage per person, because when we arrived at the hotel and were about to check in, we   had to wait for a family to check out. Two adults and three children plus, their 3 pieces of 28 inch luggage, almost filled up the space in the hotel lobby, and there was only one person at the reception desk. My friend and I decided to stand outside and wait. I noticed that the hotel was surrounded by cafes, restaurants and bars, so I thought to myself that I had found the right place! After dropping off our luggage, we could have afternoon tea at the cafe not far away!

We stayed in the Junior Suite Canal View, which was the only one with a panoramic view of the Bridge of Sighs. The room is 30 sq. m and the first thing you see when you open the door is the baroque carpet (When choosing a hotel, the décor would influence my choice, but overall, distance and value for money would be my first consideration), obviously still used today for particularly luxurious interiors, adding an elegant sheen to the room. The carpet is matched by a neoclassical style sofa, whose main features are exquisite workmanship, presumably Italian, refined and bearing a simple shape; straight lines as the tone, without overly detailed carvings, square as the main body, displaying a pursuit of overall proportional harmony and echoes. An example of what can be achieved when the artist pays attention to rationality and restraint, avoiding complicated carving and pretentious piling.

The sofa is upholstered in warm yellow and light dark green stripes with wrought brocade upholstery. To the right of the room, a romantic 4-poster bed (comfortable, I had a lie-in) and chandelier in authentic Murano glass evoke the costumes of the Venetian carnival: elegant and opulent. The overall space again seeks structural soundness and simplicity of form, so the structure of the chairs in front of the dressing table in the room is placed with emphasis on the treatment of horizontal and vertical lines, emphasising functionality and structural strength. The legs are thick at the top and thin at the bottom, with grooved decorations similar to Roman stone columns, and the ends of the legs are decorated with carvings such as spheres or fruit shapes, which not only reduce the material used for the furniture but also increase the strength of the legs, producing a clear, upright and light aesthetic. The ambience of the rooms is warm in a typically Venetian style: ornate, elegant and retro (and ornate must come first. If it is merely elegant and retro but not ornate, it has nothing to do with the Venetian style. In fact, think of the paintings and frescoes inside the Venetian museums, which are magnificent and imposing.), giving them a warm and calm feel.

The elegant, beautifully marbled bathroom with hydro-massage bath is perfect for relaxing after a busy day. It’s not even the vintage stuff that makes the Canal View Room so special, it’s the unassuming balcony! A round dining table and two vintage chairs are placed on the balcony of the room, with the shutters opening onto the Bridge of Sighs, and it is sitting on the balcony with a coffee, overlooking the crowds of people coming and going on the Bridge of Sighs, and saying hello to the occasional pigeon that stops by the balcony, that is the charming part of the hotel.

Getting up in the morning, with the first rays of sunlight, leaning far back on the Bridge of Sighs and indulging in an Italian breakfast (Cornetto, an Italian croissant, is an absolute must: it’s filled with scrambled eggs and served with Cereali, breakfast cereals, hot milk and Italian breakfast biscotti, made with creamy rice mixture. This was a little sweet, so the room thoughtfully served it with black coffee to go with it) is an experience to be enjoyed slowly, as you plan your itinerary.

Hotels are so easy to catgorise – three star, four star, five stars, before we get in to the frankly garishly opulent and crass and self-agrandising categories of hotels in the Gulf – but in doing so they lose a sense of personality and character. Categories should inspire curiosity and, dare I say, mystery. Hotels should be about deciding whether you want to embark on an much-delayed intellectual pursuit (painting the Bridge of Sighs from your balcony perhaps?), or whether you want to spend time with your children in the room, soaking in the new designs and artwork, trying new cuisines, brushing up on local myths before you venture out; hotels should be about spending a decadent week-end with new lovers, the sight-seeing only an afterthought; hotels should be about second honeymoons (with renewed passion), once the children have left home, indulging once more in experiences that were becoming fading memories and, for the solitary, introverted, introspective traveler, hotels can be a refuge from the ever-encroaching masses and the ever decreasing lack of personal space. For me, the Hotel al pontedei sospiri  is about romance and engendering memories; it’s where couples can let their romantic and creative instincts flow, with the Venetian waters providing soothing sounds.

For the period 23-25 December the price was 198 pounds a night for a Junior Suite with a canal view.