Clear waters, pristine sands and a taste of paradise…that’s what I read about when I was researching the Gili Islands. I couldn’t wait to experience luxury on these little islands near Lombok and to see what the hype was about. Cycling around the island and snorkelling every day sounded like a complete dream.

Although, reality never hits in the same way as a gushing article you read online, or what you heard an influencer opine. Travelling often and to new places, I’ve seen which destinations are overrated and overhyped by travel companies and influencers, and this for me were the Gili Islands. Every article I read and every person I spoke to about Indonesia urged me to go to the Gili Islands. I was thinking about days lapping up the sunshine on the beaches, evenings watching the sunset and experiencing the magical underwater world of marine life.

However, the start of the visit to the islands was anything but dreamy. The downward spiral began with the process of getting to the Gili Islands. I will admit, it may have been my fault for reorganising the Bali and Gili Islands part of my backpacking trip when I heard about Silent Day.  Silent Day is one day out of the year where the entire island shuts down and nobody leaves their houses, as a day of rest to meditate, sort of like a Hindu-Buddhist Sabath. We swapped our days around to arrive in the Gili Islands first and then return and do the second leg of our Bali trip. With many people leaving Bali to escape Silent Day, the ports and boats for the Gili Islands were packed and chaotic. It felt like a cattle market, especially with the blaring sun and a heavy backpack (the less glamorous side of backpacking). At the ports we faced delays and a lack of clarity about when and where to go. All the ingredients for a trip to start on the wrong note.It’s not exactly the chilled, organised and luxurious experience I expected for a honeymoon-style destination. Imagine wanting ultimate peace and being met with chaos.

After a long wait and about an hour- and- a- half long journey, we arrived at Gili Trawangan. For me, the journey wasn’t great as the boat had no air –conditioning and it was rammed and loud, with too many tourists on it. I spoke to the guy next to us because he helped us out at the port, paying for our taxi as I had no cash and there were no ATMs. He mentioned that he does this journey often and it’s never that bad. The weather wasn’t on our side, with a bit of rain but I didn’t mind as it relaxed me after the journey.

Arriving at Gili Trawangan wasn’t what I expected. Lines of horses with carts were at the port’s edge. Had we stepped back in time to a rural dimension? Later on, we were to discover what the rest of the island, away from the tourist strip of restaurants, cafes and spas was like:  unpaved muddy roads lined with locals’ houses and minimal streetlights. Not the picture-perfect postcard vibes. I shook it off and embraced it as I found with most Southeast Asia destinations the rural environment makes it part of the charm. Plus, with a backpacking life, it didn’t shock me as I had seen a lot worse during my three months of travelling.

We walked along and arrived at what we thought was the accommodation we booked, however, the lady who worked there explained it was fully booked and there was no room at the inn. The trip kept springing nasty surprises and we had to book one of the last cheapest places for three times the price! The hotel, Gili Ilalang Village featured very modern rooms with marble flooring and an open-air bathroom, with a communal pool in the centre of all the apartments. It cost £120 for 3 nights in total and for that amount of money, I expected a lot more. The original hotel cost £35 for the three nights so a pretty big price difference! We budgeted an average of £15 per night for accommodation overall and as you can imagine, were sorely disappointed with the cost and outcome of the location.

Breakfast wasn’t included, which I didn’t try as it was a very small buffet of fruit and bread and cost a couple of pounds each. However, there was free use of the pool which we spent a lot of time in to cool off and relax. We didn’t speak to many other guests but did the classic British thing and waved and nodded hello at people. It’s hard when bad experiences taint a destination because I’ll often associate a place with the things that happened.

Regardless of the stressful travel day and unnecessarily added costs, we tried to embrace the rest of the time in the Gili Islands. But I didn’t feel the exciting draw or sensation I had when we were gallivanting all over the beaches on Bali and Padar Island. I felt disappointed at the stretches of dead and damaged coral due to tourism, and the murky water off the shore and the number of boats (they must have been polluting the water, as well as tourists throwing their rubbish in the ocean) To me, it seemed like Gili Trawangan hadn’t been loved and cared for the way I’d expect a paradise island to be. I also expected it to be more built-up than it was, with clear roads, especially as the most popular mode of transport was a bicycle. The rocky paths made cycling difficult, mainly at night given the absence of streetlights.

The feeling of disappointment was high in my Gili Island experience. Maybe it was because I chose the wrong island to stay on out of the three, with Gili Air and Gili Meno being a lot smaller. The other thing which put me off the island was the snorkelling tour. As a prime destination for snorkelling, my expectations were incredibly high, and I expected the experience would be out of this world. But the reality was, in every area we stopped, loads of other boats did too and that meant about 30-plus people in the water. I saw more people’s fins than fish. At times, we did glimpse turtles and cool marine life, but it was overcrowded, with noticeable damage to the coral. The level of tourism there took away from the natural beauty and affected the natural wildlife and anyone’s experience.

On a more promising note, the food scene on Trawangan was tourist-heaven with Instagram-ready brunch places and every type of cuisine that wasn’t Indonesian. From Mexican, Greek to English, the cuisine choices reminded me of a resort holiday, rather than an authentic culinary destination. I would say despite the tourist traffic at the restaurants, the experience I had was overall, positive.

Jali Kitchen made the biggest impact with its packed-out restaurant and delicious Panang Curry (my favourite Thai curry, originating from Penang in Malaysia) giving off a ‘popular for a reason’ appeal. The curry was very similar to trying it in Thailand and Malaysia, however, it was more delicious in Thailand. The restaurant was certainly catered to tourists, serving up an array of Indonesian dishes to typical Mexican food like chilli con carne. The service was incredibly friendly and attentive, despite the mass of crowds. We had waiters coming up to ask and asking to see if we were okay and if we needed anything, whilst waiting for a table to become available. The décor had a complete bohemian look, made of timber material with cushions on the top. They also had dim lighting, and a pool, surrounded with loungers guests could relax on before dining. I didn’t speak to any of the other diners as they were coming out of their accommodation, attached to the pool. They looked like the typical island holidayers in bikinis and loose clothing, young like me in their twenties. Considering the bustling tourist scene, we paid around £12 for drinks, mains and dessert for two people – not bad at all.

The Banyan Tree impressed me the most with its cocoa smoothie bowl and health-inspired menu. The décor in this café was very simplistic with colourful wooden chairs and a modern European interior. What I loved the most however, was their exceptionally bold coloured toilets as it really brought the bright colour holiday appeal into the establishment. The ambience was completely relaxed in here, especially as we sat upstairs. I appreciate the quiet because Gilli T, despite its supposed tranquil nature had a bustling energy to it, removing the overall serenity. The smoothie bowls cost around £2.30 each and drinks were around £1-1.50. The Banyan Tree boasted a vegan-friendly menu featuring fresh fruit-mains to hearty, protein-based breakfast options, such as avocado on toast. The customers were from the same pool as Jali Kitchen, pretty, young and surfer types.

I love how many brunch places had such a focus on super food, such as wholefoods, seeds, greens and organic ingredients. It made us feel wonderful, kick-starting our day on a high with a belly full of quality food.

In terms of cultural and historical sights, Trawangan didn’t have anything significant as the main focus was on being by the beach and experiencing the snorkelling tours. People don’t visit this island to experience temples or historical sights.

Although it wasn’t the greatest experience, arriving on Gili Meno as part of the snorkelling tour was a breath of fresh air as their main beach wasn’t covered with resorts and we could enjoy the tranquil views and clear water. It had a more peaceful atmosphere with a similar natural and residential appeal. I was on the island only for a few hours but wish I experienced a couple of nights here.

The Gili Islands weren’t all bad. Despite some bad luck, over-tourism and disappointment, the time on the island was fun. It’s a holiday place where you simply want to eat, relax and do nothing for a few days. As a backpacker and luxury holiday spot, the food scene was ideal for an “Instagram brunch” or Western food you set your heart on, plus many places for cocktails on the beach. It’s perfect for those who love drinking too with lots of bar crawls (not my scene, however). The majority of the tourists seem to be a combination of Australians, Europeans and a small contingent of English people. I spoke briefly to some on our boat tour but because I wasn’t feeling great, couldn’t appreciate their company too much.

The restaurants across Gili Trawangan all seemed geared to Insta addicts, all interested more in looking cool than genuinely taking an interest in their food and the cultural significance of it, and surfers, especially Helicapitano Lifestyle Cafe with their pillows for chairs and coconut-style smoothie bowls (smoothies in a real coconut).I would say the surfers were a combination of wannabes and those who are regularly in the water. This find was popular with all tourists, mainly young and carefree ones, sipping iced coffees and a “cool-looking breakfast”, meaning its aesthetically pleasing appearance. I couldn’t fully appreciate the vibe here with a sensitive stomach from ‘Bali belly’, but I did manage to try their oat pancakes and they were delicious. The prices were around £4/£5 each for food and drink.

Coffee and Thyme was my favourite café offering dreamy, large pancakes and an extensive menu of fresh juices! Just the health kick I needed before chilling on the beach all day. The décor was simple with dark wooden tables and touches of colour throughout and an open kitchen behind the tables. The café wasn’t as large as I’d imagine downstairs however, and tables were particularly close together, but I didn’t mind as it makes a dining experience more communal.  Food wise, it boasted a gorgeous menu of freshly pressed juices, smoothies and various pancakes, offering something fresh or fulfilling for every customer. This café had similar prices to the other ones I’d visited, charging around £2.50 for food and £1.30 for a drink.

Whilst The Banyan Tree I adored for its chill vibe, with a quieter group of customers and an opportunity to relax with your food. Unlike other cafes, there wasn’t a frantic, rushing atmosphere, with waiters running around trying to ensure food was at the ready for customers. As a huge chocolate fan, their cacao bowl was a brilliant way to enjoy the healthy side of the cocoa taste without feeling sick afterwards. It was rich and packed with fruit and fibre, including chia seeds and chocolate chips.

Dinner-wise, Jali Kitchen had to get a big shoutout and was my favourite spot for being the most popular restaurant on the island and still not overly expensive, especially for vegetarian options. I had a lovely curry, whilst my partner needed some home comfort of chilli. To cool down, a fabulous spot was Gili Yo Frozen Yogurt, although expensive for what it was. This yoghurt shop lets you customise your treat with toppings, fruit, sauces and more.

I can’t provide a fair analysis of the other Gili Islands, Gili Air or Gili Meno as I didn’t have the chance to see them due to sickness and lack of time. Although, during our snorkelling tour from Gili Trawangan, we stopped off at Gili Meno for a bite to eat and a wander. We discovered a local restaurant, Warung Licung Bamboo. The owners here were super friendly and appreciated we showed up, with other minimal customers sitting for lunch. This quaint restaurant was in a large bamboo hut with worn-in wooden tables and bamboo chairs – and one of the cheapest places we ate, costing £1 a meal. The crowd was small with only us and one other couple at the restaurant and I was blown away by the attentiveness of the owner. They served up various food options such as wraps and noodles, to fresh-pressed juices.

The rest of Gili Meno seemed very natural, plentiful in trees and greenery and had a quietness  about it unlike its larger sister island. Although, one thing I did notice was all the dead coral washed up on the shore which made me a little sad. As it seemed quieter and cleaner, I assumed the island was cared for, but that may not have been the case. It would have been great to visit Gili Air, although, with time restraints and lack of desire to, I don’t know how much I missed.

Gili Islands – are they worth it? Overall, I would admit the Gili Islands are overhyped for what they were. When I compare these islands to Bali and the Thai Islands, with similar levels of tourism, those destinations live up to dreamy expectations. Whereas the Gili Islands seem to have all the hype and flashy places to eat, without care for the environment, and the development of safer roads.

Overall, I wouldn’t personally recommend, Gili Trawangan as a place to visit, unless you’re looking to holiday it up in a resort where you can eat lovely food for more reasonable prices and take part in typical water activities and excursions. Yet, for me, it didn’t fulfil my heart the way I hoped, and I left feeling disappointed in the hype of the island.