Koh Phangan – The Global Voyagers https://theglobalvoyagers.com Global Travel Premium Magazine & Article Sun, 03 Jul 2022 18:28:08 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.5.5 https://i0.wp.com/theglobalvoyagers.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/cropped-Global-Voyagers-Fevicon.png?fit=32%2C32&ssl=1 Koh Phangan – The Global Voyagers https://theglobalvoyagers.com 32 32 214881783 An Insider’s Guide to Koh Phangan https://theglobalvoyagers.com/eat-drink-sleep/koh-phangan/katiegaster/an-insiders-guide-to-koh-phangan/ Fri, 01 Jul 2022 15:01:09 +0000 https://theglobalvoyagers.com/?p=526

I booked my trip to Thailand almost as soon as I saw they were back open for tourists. Having previously visited the country in 2019 and absolutely LOVING it, I couldn’t wait to come back to ‘the land of smiles’. If you’ve not yet had the pleasure of visiting this tropical paradise, let me try to explain the ‘Thailand experience’. Think palm trees, cheap street food, cute little lizards perched on walls, Buddhist temples, humid jungles, sandy beaches and plenty of hot sun! Thai culture is incredibly enjoyable for visitors and the locals are always happy to greet and serve travellers, I think probably now more than ever since the lack of tourism (due to Covid) would have made such a negative impact on the country’s economy. Now tourism is open in Thailand I can feel locals are so pleased to have customers again! During my first couple of days in Thailand, when I was wandering around Bangkok, I was stopped by three locals who simply just wanted to have a chat and get to know me. I think Thailand is a super- welcoming and warm place for any tourist here to appreciate the country. Of course everyone’s experience is going to be different and the environment will depend on where you go, but this is the general vibe I’ve picked up from where I’ve visited- Bangkok, Pai, Chang Mai, Koh Chang, Koh Lanta and Krabi. If you want to explore a country that holds a lot of spiritual energy, a big backpacker culture and you are on a budget – Thailand could be a wonderful option for you.

Although I’ve been to Thailand before, this was my first time on the beautiful southern island of Koh Phangan where I’ve spent my whole stay. I arrived about a month and a half ago at the start of May and I hope to stay at least a few more months. The island is known most famously for the full moon party and yet there is so much more to explore here! It’s not all just buckets of alcohol and neon face paint. Now I’ve settled in and had the time to really get a good taste of Koh Phangan, I want to share my favourite spots. These are the beaches, parties, markets, hostels and other spaces I can recommend as a fond returning visitor. I myself have mostly explored the north of the island where I live, so most of my recommendations are around that part of the island.

Working at a Cafe (unmentioned) | © Katie Gaster

Where to stay

Let’s start with a space to sleep, since this is generally what I first research and book on a trip. During my time here I’ve tried and tested a number of different hostels and resorts and by far my favourite was Shiralea hostel located near Haad Yao beach. The location is great as you can easily get around even if you don’t rent a scooter by foot and taxi. Scooters can be rented all over the island and there are multiple places just outside of Shiralea. On average they cost 250TBH for 24 hours, however there’s normally the possibility of bartering a lower price especially if you rent for a few days or weeks at a time! There’s a nearby 7/11, beach, shops and plenty of food places! The reason I loved this place so much is the super-relaxed and yet reasonably sociable and vibrant energy. Bearing in mind it’s been low season during my time here, so the country isn’t receiving so many tourists in this time. Yet at Shiralea I met so many amazing friends and loved the company of the staff too. When I crashed my bike and came back to the hostel with a bloody leg and sore limbs there were there to help patch me up and give comfort. It feels almost like a community at Shiralea! The hostel offers books to read, snorkelling masks to borrow and even a guitar to play if you fancy. Shiralea has a decent gym as well as a lovely pool to cool down in. It even hosts yoga classes, movie nights and reasonably priced fitness classes too. The hostel has a bar and restaurant serving a decent menu of both western and Thai food. Expect dishes like burgers (meat and meat-free), salads, smoothie bowels, pizza as well as traditional Thai foods like noodles, soups and rice. It’s not particularly vegan-friendly but there are a few good vegetarian options! It’s also not the cheapest place on the island for food, but it’s definitely worth the price particularly for convenience and the general Shiralea vibe. I highly recommend their mango sticky rice and vegetable spring rolls if you ever go! If you don’t want to pay around 300TBH for a full meal and drink then there are other cheaper options around the hostel. One restaurant literally just across the road at Sun Moon Star is lower in price and has a beautiful view of the ocean! Shiralea’s restaurant is a great hub for people to chill out at, nothing too party crazy since it’s not busy, but some night a good amount of people are present and enjoy sharing a few drinks. I spent my first couple of weeks at Shiralea living in a mostly empty dorm. As dorms go they’re pretty nice! Simple, clean and super affordable bunk beds with a curtain for privacy. Plus. they include a clothes hanging rail and closet by your bed, which is a pretty rare dorm feature from my experience. The toilets and showers are communal and kept clean and tidy. I was paying around 175TBH per night, but the prices can go up and down during low and high season as well as when the full moon party comes around. Eventually I upgraded to a bungalow for a week to give myself more space and privacy. The hostel offers bungalows of different sizes so there’s a nice range of spaces to choose from. I went for the cheapest option and it was so spacious, clean and comfortable. I had a big double bed, aircon and a terrace with a hammock. The bungalow was around 400TBHa night. When I finally left Shiralea to rent another place more south it felt bitter sweet to move on and I intend to go to a movie night soon!

View from Sun Moon Star restaurant opposite Shiralea Hostel | © Katie Gaster

Where to chill

One of my favourite places to relax on the island, whether that’s by myself of with a friend, is the lovely Art Cafe located in Haad Chao Phao. This cute little cafe is also a library, so you can explore some different reads while you kick back with a pot of herbal tea. It’s a darker lit environment with plenty of fans on to keep you cool making is a great escape from the sun and heat. The aesthetic of Art Cafe is probably what makes it so enjoyable. It’s a super calm and cosy and place that feels like you’re in a treehouse almost. You’re surrounded by books, bright decor and there’s a beautiful Ganesha (the Hindu elephant God) shrine too. Though a little on the pricier side, they have a great menu offering organic, vegan and vegetarian options like full vegetarian breakfasts, fruit salads and kidney bean burgers. I can very much recommend their smoothie bowls which go for around 120TBH. The staff are also very kind and welcoming. If you want to spend a lazy day soaking up a good book or you fancy sharing a healthy lunch with your friends, Art Cafe is where I’d point you.

Sunset at Zen Beach | © Katie Gaster

Where to swim

Koh Phangan has lots of beaches (as islands tend to) and I’ve not explored them all, however from the many I have wandered my favourite one has got to be Zen beach. Like it sounds, this beach has a super chilled out energy. There is often music in the evenings as it’s a popular place to go for sunset, attracting all kinds of cool people. One time as I sat gazing in awe at the sea after a swim, a man approached me selling some chocolate energy balls. We ended up having an interesting conversation about our time on the island. Turns out he’s been living here for over two years and rents out bungalows. We exchanged details and a few days later he ended up helping me find a great little bamboo bungalow to move into! Some evenings you’ll find drum circles and even people dancing with fire, gathering quite an audience. I’ve struggled to find good beach for swimming on Koh Phangan, however Zen beach is perfect for your refreshing daily dip. The ocean there is super still, clear and it doesn’t take too long to find deep water whereas other beaches are often really shallow for a long walk. Zen beach is fairly small but is a hot spot, especially at sunset. I like to go there most evenings to end the day with a calming dip in the sea, at this time it’s a cool enough to relieve you of the sun yet warm enough to keep you floating about for a while. There’s also something very satisfying about witnessing the sun very slowly lower onto the horizon until it vanishes. It’s the little things! If you’re into naked sun bathing then there is a spot for that at the far end of the beach. Another suggestion for a fun swim is at the far eastern end of Secret beach on a resort called Koh Raham. In this resort you can climb down some rocky steps (or just jump straight in) and have a splash about with tons of fish. Although I haven’t stayed at the resort it’s open for anyone to come and enjoy the bar and snorkelling spot. It’s perfect for paddling about the marine life and enjoying the clear, cooling waters.

Painting at Zen Breach | © Katie Gaster

Where to jam

If you’re a musician, singer or just simply love live music then The Jam Bar is a must for you. This open mic event is on every Thursday and Sunday evening and is located in Maduwan. The Jam Bar attracts talented locals, expats and travellers to take the mic and share their musical gifts. It’s the perfect place to meet your mates in the evening over a beer and vibe. People cover all kinds of songs from rock hits to popular love ballads. It’s always exciting to see what music people have to share! You get a lot of regulars too, in the audience and performing. My favourite act is a 10 year old boy who uses the stage to share his evolving bass guitar skills. So cute! The first time I went to the Jam Bar a friend of mine spontaneously decided to perform a beautiful Spanish song, it was so cool to unexpectedly watch her play! This is the vibe of The Jam Bar, random people just taking the mic and singing their heart out. Another cool spot to enjoy live music is Rasta Home which is a bar and restaurant found north in Haad Yao. On Fridays this place is popping off with live Rasta bands covering all of our favourite reggae tunes. It’s a large space decked out with colourful string lights, hammocks, cosy corners and quirky art pieces. There’s also a big dance space so plenty of room for you to bop to Bob Marley covers!

Where to shop

Koh Phangan’s Saturday night market in Thong Sala is a super popular place for both tourists and local people. Here locals set up their stalls for the evening to serve affordable street food, clothes and other creations. You’ll find a long road of stalls offering delicious street foods from donuts to seafood noodles to chicken skewers. I find this market is the perfect place to experiment with Thai foods! My first visit got me a dish of yummy yellow noodles and a battered chicken skewer for just 40 Baht, the equivalent of 69p!Clothing can be found sold both new and second hand on stalls and in shops. The road has a good amount of vintage shops to thrift through as well. Labra Cadabra, found at the very end of the road, stocks an impressive range of pre-loved cowboy boots (amongst other vintage clothes and accessories) that I spent a good while admiring. As well as the shops there are pop-up stalls that are only available during the Saturday night market selling pretty jewellery, unique art pieces and there’s even a henna body painting stall available. The Saturday night market is always pretty busy and has a fast-paced energy, making it a fun Saturday evening activity to explore alone or with company. There isn’t much room for sitting in the market however it’s located right next to the beach so you can enjoy your evening meal sat right next to the ocean!

Where to stretch

In Shrithanu you’ll find Orion Healing Centre based by the sea. This is a (very) relaxing space which offers daily workshops and classes. Seriously, the place is so relaxed I find myself needing to take a nap if I’m ever sat in the cafe for too long. Orion focuses mainly on detox programs and yoga, however they have a weekly schedule of offers. I don’t know a huge amount about the detox programs and I’m yet to explore the detox world however I have attended a yoga class at Orion and it was definitely a good workout. Orion also offers classes like art therapy, candle making, handstand workshops, kids yoga and breath-work sessions. There’s such an array of healing, creative and informative workshops happening there that there’s always something for everyone. At Orion I’ve been involved in yoga classes and even a group past life regression session. This is where the facilitator has you lay down takes you into a hypnosis state through meditation. It was a wild! In addition to the huge variety of workshops and classes, Orion also has a lovely vegan cafe and restaurant. It’s not the cheapest, but the food is delicious and the view of the sea is beautiful. I’m yet to eat at the restaurant however I did watch a friend of mine devour a delicious looking vegan burger which I believe cost her around 200TBH.

Where to party

On Wednesday evenings on Koh Phangan’s delightful beach called Haad Yao, you’ll find a small spot featuring neon lights and techno tunes. Here Seaboard bungalows hosts a wonderful artisan market and party each week where travellers and expats connect, trade and dance! The market itself is small and intimate featuring handmade macrame items, second hand clothing, crystals of all sizes and colours, patterned kimonos, hand-decorated hats and all sorts of creative products. The party is also small but always bursting with interesting people in fun clothes and a booming DJ set. Plus, the party is on the beach so when dancing gets too overheated and you’re absolutely dripping in sweat you get to go run into the cool sea! Of course, there’s also the famous full moon party that happens once a month in the South, but I’ve never been and so cannot provide any personal input on that one! From what I’ve heard it’s big and pretty darn wild. Maybe I’ll go next full moon just to see what the fuss is about.

On Koh Phangan there is literally something for everyone. I’ve still got so much to explore on the island but what I’ve seen so far has been magic. If you do come this way, be sure to check out the several Koh Phangan Facebook groups for digital nomads, parties and events and there’s even one for the conscious community here. This way you can connect with others and receive updates on things to do and see! Most of all I want to remind you to go with the experiences that excite you, rather than following the crowd and doing things you think you ‘should’ be doing. This is your trip, so make the most of it and follow your joy!

Thailand's Map

Koh Phangan's Map

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