Once guests filtered into the main hall, they found themselves on the main level. This was an open floor with a number of large, unique booths each pertaining to a separate country. The open floor was encircled by several stages and smaller, more uniform booths. These larger booths were reserved for the key players -sponsors of the Food Festival. These included Wales, Greece, Montenegro, Italy, Azerbaijan, Louisiana and Michigan to name a few. Each of these had a stall decorated with imagesfrom their countries, advertising the activities one can try there other than eat. This is because the Food Festival presents an opportunity to drum up tourism in each location, though the intensity of this varied between stalls.
The Montenegro staff seemed genuinely passionate about their country, with one chef remarking to me that he feels as though his country is undervalued as a land of beauty, culture and adventure. He explained to me of how he’d be thrilled if Montenegro began to receive the recognition, he believed it deserved through events such as these. The passion from the staff is quite infectious and it was genuinely brilliant to meet people with a genuine love for their home. I once looked at travelling to Montenegro, only refraining as the timing hadn’t worked out, though after my interaction here I’ve pledged to one day finally make the trip.
On the other hand, the Ecuadorian stall was much more open ended about inspiring tourism to the country, by flashing holiday deals and pictures of beaches. Speaking to the staff will result in a business card and daydreams about hiking some fantastic scenery. It is all very well for economies overly reliant on tourism and the magazine obviously caters to people who like to travel. It’s easy to make a link between the Food Festival and the underlying message: go book holidays, preferably with tour operators who advertise in NGT and NGTFM, to exotic destinations after trying exotic cuisines! Unfortunately, tourism comes at a price to the environment and I struggled to see any message at the Festival that highlighted the effects of carbon emissions caused by aircraft. The November 2022 issue of NGT carries a full-page advertisement from an aircraft charter company. That should give you an idea about where the magazines’ priorities lie.
Environmental concerns were very much swept under the carpet. Island nations like Grenada and Barbados are in the firing line. As oceans rise, more and more of these islands will lose their land mass. But, hey, if we want frequent long-haul, environmentally detrimental holidays we’ll book ‘em, right? We’ll just make the right noises at the right time about environmentally-conscious travel and Global Warming. Greenwashing-by-numbers.
And, as you knock back another cocktail from Louisiana or enrol for the prize at Michigan’s stand, know that both states are home to two of the most violent cities – New Orleans and Detroit- in the USA (the phrase ‘cap in yo’ ass’ springs to mind). Of course, this isn’t the kind of information the tourist boards and travel magazines won’t divulge but GV isn’t beholden to tourism boards and travel fairs and we’ll tell it like it is.
Between sips of rum and chunks of chocolate sales reps tell you about package holidays, the activities and travel opportunities one could expect. Similarly, Barbados was recording customer testimonials in order to showcase to others how much fun the country could be.
This is by no means meant to be a negative comment on the Food Festival. Guests are still exposed to a number of local dishes, and if anything, this encourages the staff to be more enthusiastic when talking to guests visiting each booth.These stalls also tend to provide recipes for the foods you try, such as Louisiana’s curried shrimp or Azerbaijan’s Qutabs(also known as Chudu). Alongside recipe cards there were often giveaways to package holidays, pizza ovens and more. All of this is designed to hold your attention past the end of the eventand encourage guests to do their own research at home. Though one may argue that Food Festivals are an inherently commercial event used to create business globally, I find it to be worth noting, as some guests I met were casually attending to fill an afternoon. Those entering on a whim to learn about food may be taken aback by this,seeing it as detracting from the cultural potential of the Food Festival.
Not each of the stalls fall under this category, however. The Welsh stall, for example, was comprised of a few smaller Welsh businesses rather than a singular example of culture. One such stall was Velfry Vineyard, a very young family-owned sparkling wine brand. As their first harvest was only in 2019, they cannot attend many of these shows since they only have 600 bottles, which are sold locally or from their website. Therefore, they need to reserve their attendance at shows for the significant ones, such as a National Geographic Food Festival, in order to maximise the benefit. Adjacent to Velfrey Vineyardwas the Snowdonia Cheese Company. Operating out of Wales, their brand has been active for over 21 yearsand therefore has the means to sell cheese all over the UK. Despite their reach and longevity, I’d not heard of them before which suggests that shows such as these may compensate for exhibitors’ low-key or non-existent advertising campaigns.While they previously attended shows like these often, since COVID much of their advertising has been done online, similarly only coming to significant shows such as these. Much of the time however, when asking stalls if they felt the show was a significant boost to exposure, they returned a similar stock answer: “Oh yes, it’s always good to introduce our products to new people!”. Whether or not a Nat Geo show or a show local to the headquarters is more useful, then, remains to be seen,
Here, we’re seeing something far different. The purpose of the Welsh stall, rather than to encourage tourism, appears to be giving opportunities to small Welsh brands old and new. Those who often do not have the means to attend Food Festivals are granted, for a fee, achance to have their voice heard by those who are fascinated by travel, food and culture. While this may seem more inline with what visitors may have expected from a Food Festival, it is important to remember the event is based in London. In comparison to Ecuador, Wales does not feel far away and many guests are likely to even be Welsh. Furthermore, these companies are aiming to sell to the UK whereas many of the other countries’ products have limited opportunities outside of their home country.Therefore, the priorities of attending a London based Food Festival are likely to be different from some of the more far-flung guests than they are for London’s neighbours.
This is not to say that these stalls had little to offer outside of tourism deals and business cards. One stall here stood above the rest: Azerbaijan. This stall would consistently see long queues, I waited no less than 25 minutes, and for good reason. This seemed to be the only stall on the main floor which was not trying to sell guests anything, the primary focus appearing to be sharing Azerbaijani culture and dishes with attendees. The food in question also stood apart from the rest. While the majority of stalls would batch produce taster samples, and hand them out to guests while discussing other matters, each guest at the Azerbaijan stall could order a custom made Qutab. This was a flour flatbread filled with either meat, pumpkin or herbs and could come with a range of side dishes and seasoningsincluding green onion, cheese and what I guessed to be Pink Pitaya.A core feature of the Qutab is the range of ingredients that can be employed to fit all dietary requirements, or simply preferences in flavour. This level of customisation at a food festival, in this quantity, really let the food do the talking. This was my first time trying Azerbaijani cuisine and I was immediately hooked, I think personally, it was primarily because of the intensity of the flavour in the face of the simplicity. I think the Qutab has single-handedly convinced me to travel to Azerbaijan one day.I asked a staff member why she thought the stall had such a long queue, her answer simply being, “our food’s really good”. Not only this, but later in the day they started producing a new meal entirely, a traditional rice dish by the name Plov. Seen as Azerbaijan’s national food, and similar to the Qutabs, a key feature of this dish is how versatile it is in its creation. While there are core components, such as raisins, chestnuts and lamb, chefs are free to improvise as they see fit.Personally, this was most in linewith what I expected from a Food Festival: broadening people’s minds by exposing them to new foods and cultures. It felt more as though they were sharing culture with us, not selling it to us.