The Nice Girls’ Guide to Lisbon

Lisbon is more than just the‘tram- and- foodie paradise’ of Portugal, don’t let the endless Insta posts fool you! It draws you in with its combination of old and new, sacred and profane(those dark alleyways in the Alfama are so inviting after a balmy night spent drinking, dancing closely and flirting!). It would be a shame to follow in the footsteps of the ‘Insta-crowd’ and just hop from one photo-op to another while ignoring what one of Europe’s oldest and most diverse cities has to offer. I mean, going off the tourist trail to find out parts of the city that tourists don’t venture to (want to pick up some quirky art for your flat? Head down to Feira da Laura, also in Alfama, to see African masks and jewellery…made by Lisbon’s African residents, not some factory in China!), speaking with the locals to understand what makes them tick, how they feel about Lisbon and learning what makes Lisbon such a beloved city.You’ll quickly come to understand why many Portuguese have returned home to become Lisboetas…and why the city attracts new residents.

If Porto is the conservatively-dressed, clean-cut, port-swilling, nine-to-fiver, content and stable partner who loves diving into the history books rather than clubbing, and is maybe a bit too religious (all those churches!),  then Lisbon is the designer-stubbled, tight t-shirt wearing, bourbon-downing bad boy all the girls fancy! The wild and sexy fling you have when you’re on holiday…and tell all your gals about! The fling that you may never contact again but the memories of your connection will always stay with you. But, when the opportunity to re-acquaint yourself arises, how can you say ‘não’?

Arriving in this charismatic, historic, charming, and quaint city for a second time after five years, I was excited to see what had changed, how the city differed and if I’d love it as much as on my initial visit. The city’s colours, the weather and all the positive reviews I’d heard about Lisbon initially attracted me here. Lisbon is a bustling destination for tourists and locals alike, with a constant stream of people, traffic and things going on. It’s intense at times! But the intensity and throb of activity are part of the charm (don’t worry, there are quieter parts to the city if you don’t want to be caught up in the rip-tide of humanity) and I find them…thrilling. That was the case five years ago and still is, only more so, with more visitors and longer queues. Great for the economy but not so much for my patience!

Crowds notwithstanding, the sights, such as the San Jorge Castle in Lisbon were even more gorgeous than before, or maybe, the extra autumn sunshine won my heart over. Who knows? 

Lisbon keeps you busy. Even walking around is an activity as the hills are a workout but the effort is worth it because the buildings are incredibly colourful, and I couldn’t help but admire every road, such as Elevador da Bica and Pink Street. The pastel-coloured buildings stood out, but so did the shabby and worn-down buildings, charming in their own way. Many are still used as homes and it would be a shame if they were demolished to be replaced by trendy flats for the international nouveaux riche. The older buildings lent an urban authenticity to the city and stopped it from turning in to some Portuguese version of Miami’s South Beach or ‘Dubai-on-the-Tagus!’ The old and new complement each other, adding to the quaint charm. Travel magazines would probably use the label ‘rustic-chic’ but I prefer ‘Edgy Luso-urban’. Yep, we coin new phrases at Global Voyagers, we don’t resort to lazy labels!

There are many roads that stand out: the cobbled path, Costa do Castelo, leading up to the São Jorge Castle with its tasteful buildings that have been converted to restaurants, cafes, homes, and quirky shops selling ceramics, soft furnishings and souvenirs along the way. Whilst the roads, such as Miradouro das Portas do Sol (with its gorgeous viewpoint of the colourful Alfama) around the centre, too, as it amazes me how so many buildings, attractions and people can fit in one glorious city. You could try and see everything in one go but that wouldn’t leave you time to savour it, like a long, deep kiss.

The classic yellow trams passing through constantly add to the aural background. Known as a staple to Lisbon’s history, the trams have been around since the 19^th century when the city was among the smallest in Europe. In 1873, the company Carris launched the first horse cart in the city and with its first tram launch in 1901. Despite Lisbon seeming very with the times now, it was late on the bandwagon compared to others with the horse drawn cart. The trams, however, became a city feature and have been developed and modernised over time, but many of the classic trams are still prominent in the city.

I’m obsessed with trams:their traditional look and resistance to modernity make for a non-perfect bumpy and loud rides make a change from taking the metro. I love their character, design and how you can effectively get around on a vehicle which sometimes doesn’t have a modern exterior and interior. I should have really gone to the Carris museum to learn more about them! Riding a tram in Lisbon is a must if you want to delve in to authenticity. A rite of passage as you might say. The trams cost around 3 euro, depending on the route. I would say they were mainly used by locals if you don’t go on the touristy routes. In terms of space though, they’re not massive and the seats are pretty small but it’s a rather humbling experience. Humbling because it’s not a ‘out of this world’ experience but something wholesome and local. Although, the most popular route of tram 28 hits all the tourist sites, such as Basilica da Estrela and San Jorge Castle and inevitably fills with tourists.

Get off at Praça do Comercio in Baixa, the renowned square overlooking the water and a gorgeous spot to catch the sunshine and relax with a drink or two.Posing and preening here is par for the Praça. This square was the key spot for captains and merchants to plan sea voyages to Brazil, Southeast Asia and India. It features the iconic, bright yellow – the colour I associate with Lisbon!- archway to enter it and the surrounding yellow buildings were once the royal palace (they’re now government offices). The bright and sunny radiance of the square in general matches the colourful exteriors. I particularly loved how this square isn’t just beautiful but also a location for local markets, events and inviting restaurants.

San Jorge Castle(Castelo de São Jorge) is my favourite attraction in the city. I loved the historical significance– the hill it’s on has been captured over the years by the area’s Celtic tribes, then Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans…basically, anyone that ruled over the area or wanted to rule over the area –  and captivating views the first time I visited. And, the second time, I fell in love with it all over again. Set upon a stony hill, it takes either a lift or tram and a walk to reach the wonderful castle itself. From here I had a panoramic view of the city, the terracotta buildings and the glistening water of the Atlantic in the distance.  Visiting in early October, I didn’t think the castle would be busy, but I was wrong. The line wound down the cobbled streets! Luckily, I pre-booked tickets so I could jump the queue and I didn’t have to wait that long. I reckon the visitors were a combination of Instagram lovers and history buffs as I saw many like me wandering around snapping photos. Yet, there were many on guided tours, absorbing the information from the guides. 

Founded in the 10th century by the Moors, Dom Afonso Henriques captured the city from the Moors in 1147 and the Castle became a home for successive Portuguese kings. It’s also where   Dom Manuel I received Vasco da Gama after his sea voyage, the first by a European to India in the late summer of 1499. I dare say neither man knew then the significance of what had been achieved…and its ramifications for colonialism, capitalism and, ominously, human rights and race relations. A visit to the Castle is more resonant and profound if you know your history.

Given its considerate length of history (it always blows me away how long the castle has stood there), it took a lot of restoration work to become what it is today: a proud National Monument showcasing and enhancing the relationship of the old and new.I adored all the arched holes in each of the walls across the castle as they made quirky frames for the great views.

Another early medieval building (from the mid 12th century) is Lisbon Cathedral(known as Sé), one of the oldest structures in the city and situated on top of a curvy hill, hidden away from the city’s crowds and noise. It was built in the reign of D. Afonso Henriques, after the Christian crusaders took back the city from the Moors, for the city’s first bishop: the English Crusader Giilbert of Hastings. Inside, the cathedral was done up in the usual bright, stained-glass windows and beautiful arched ceilings. The stain-glass windows depicted the patrons of Lisbon, Saint Anthony and Saint Vincent.Unlike other cathedrals, there wasn’t any art on the ceilings, just a pristine, tile-like pattern with no images, just simple stone. Although a tourist attraction, it wasn’t my favourite cathedral but sitting on the steps outside made for a moment of peace. A moment to watch the trams trundle past as the bustle of tourists walked up and down the hill.

Another one of my favourite things about Lisbon is the hipsterand arty scene, with sights catered to that market and encouraging tourists to see more of the quirky experiences. I do consider myself a bit of a hipster and enjoy roaming around arty shops, grabbing a drink at earthy-looking coffee shops and taking photos for “the ‘gram”. The two places that come to mind are the LX Factory and the Pink Street. Although, they’re built for tourists and may appear too hip to some, many of the shops and cafes are small businesses, thriving on tourist traffic.

LX Factory is a restored factory complex, originally built in 1846, and today is an assortment of art-deco shops, restaurants and cafes. I loved exploring LX Factory! I enjoyed mooching around art galleries and browsing the city’s talent on show at the homeware shops and vintage record stores. Prices varied depending on the shop and item but, really, you’re paying as much for the experience as you are for the merchandise.

Whilst LX Factory had an old-school look and many small businesses, Pink Street was Instagram-central. With a pink road painted on the floor, this strip is filled with bars and restaurants and obviously a major tourist attraction. At night, the place comes alive with music and wild tourists (hen dos and stag dos, for example) partying and drinking the night away, and enough choice of bars to enjoy a night out the way you like it. This isn’t really where you come to listen to Fado!

Stepping away from the joy of a night out in the city, the beach, Cais das Colunas in Lisbon is tiny but a small spectacle, next to the Praca do Comercio, perfect for escaping the city bustle and admiring the sound of the ocean even for ten minutes or so.If you want more beach time, grab the train to Estoril or Cascais. I loved sitting on the sand and listening to the waves, enjoying brief moments of relative quietude by the calm ocean, with the still hot sun beaming down. I wouldn’t say it’s appropriate for swimming as I didn’t see anyone doing so and watersports aren’t offered either. As it’s near to the Praca do Comercio, there are plenty spots to grab a Sangria or a bite for lunch and many stalls selling refreshments.It’s more ideal for picnics in that respect.

A little further away from the hub is Belém, also a great area to explore and popular with tourists. Most of the city bus tours include Belem for good reasons as the sights there are phenomenal. 

The most popular are the Belém Tower and Jeronimos Monastery. I got to experience these sights properly for the first time when I ventured inside. The Belém Tower was built as a fortress between 1514 and 1520 by the Portuguese architect and sculptor Francisco de Arruda and commissioned by King Joao II – and that beauty shines through even today, the historical significance(it’s from the Tower that Portugal’s great discoverers set off on their epic voyages) and the gorgeous water views just make it all the more enchanting. I loved how rustic the building looked from the worn-down stonework but the aging beauty went hand-in-hand with the melancholia too: lots of sailors would leave here never to return.Glory doesn’t come without huge sacrifices. The top balcony opens to a stunning view of the water’s edge.Try and imagine those Portuguese armadas made of carracks, naus and galleons heading off in to the unknown… It made waiting for around an hour to get in and the 8.50-euro price tag worth it. 

The Jeronimos Monastery also had a long line, and although it took less time to reach the entrance, the attraction surprised me. The monastery was built to honour Portuguese discoveries during the country’s expansion in the 15th and 16th centuries. The construction began in 1501 and took a century to complete in total, commissioned by Manuel I after Vasco da Gama’s return from India. The craftsmanship that went into this building was momentous. I loved the cream-coloured walls with fine detailing of swirls and intricate curls that worked in unison to breathe life into what’s been labelled a ‘Portuguese Gothic Manueline architecture style’.I went on a bright sunny day in the afternoon and the cream-coloured walls reflected the light beautifully, enhancing its glory. It was the first time I came across this style and its unique look made a deep impression on me.

Falling in love with Lisbon wasn’t only about the sights; the food scene alone is enough to tempt people to visit. As the city caters to both traditionalists and tourists, the curious and those set in their ways, the choice of cuisine serves all groups, with a wide offering of Portuguese restaurants and Insta-friendly brunch places. Plus, you’re likely to find restaurants serving various European cuisines, quirky bars, gelato shops and vegan spots to suit every taste and lifestyle. The beauty of Lisbon is its diversity: this is where you come for authentic Luso-African, Luso-Macanse and Luso-Indian food, for example. Oh, and of course, Brazilian Caipirinhas!

The most satisfactory way to embrace the city’s flavours is to visit the Timeout Market. We saw this recommended everywhere before heading there, and I can admit IT WAS A DREAM. The market was busy and it was difficult to get a table, although it was worth the wait to sample all the wonders of the world’s cuisines and the best handpicked from the city. It seemed impossible to pick the right stall, however, I ended up choosing a delicious prawn and bean stew with crusty bread. I’m not entirely sure if it was a Portuguese dish as it was called ‘prawn and bean stew’ and it cost me around 7/8 euros. To finish, the Gelato Davero stall served up generous portions of ice cream in unique flavours, such as custard for an affordable price of 2-3 euro.

The seating arrangements were very much on a ‘first come, first served basis’. There were many long tables with chairs and taller tables with stalls and honestly, you’re lucky to get somewhere to sit as the market is very busy at prime time. You end up sitting next to many other people dining there, like a cafeteria style as we did, although I didn’t end up speaking to any. Most people seemed in their own world with those they’re dining with.The room was filled with a diverse range of people, families, groups of young women, couples, and older people, meeting up to grab a bite to eat. I couldn’t distinguish the locals from the tourists, they both seemed to be enjoying themselves. Good food is a good anonymiser.

The vendors were friendly; however, they didn’t have the chance to be personable as the lines were too busy and they had too many people to serve. It was more like a ‘place your order-pay-collect-find somewhere to sit’kind of place.There were plenty of options for those who like an alcoholic drink with their meal.

Back in the city, my favourite brunch and lunch places include Zenith Brunch and Cocktails, Floral and Fauna and The Green Room. 

Zenith brought in crowds of tourists and doubles up as a brunch venue with many mocktails and cocktails to enjoy at all times of the day. The décor was an Instagrammer’s wet dream, with neon signs, plants and classic wooden tables and what’s commonly described  as ‘a buzzing atmosphere’. The price really depended on what you chose, but the average is around £10 and the service very attentive. I enjoyed the delicious smoothie bowls and fresh juices and wish I had more room in my stomach to eat the pancakes on the menu too. The menu also offered a range of toasts, tacos, nachos, salads, egg dishes and burgers.

Although, Floral and Fauna ticked wholesome and sweet pancakes off my list, serving up a stack of chocolate and peanut butter goodness in an eco-friendly, wooden interior. The décor was basic yet natural with wooden tables, a Scandinavian design and plants everywhere. Service was friendly, attentive, and welcoming as if you were a local, visiting regularly. Customers varied; the cafe actually had a lot of families in there with young to older children. 

The Green Room is the complete opposite, a plant-based restaurant offering the introduction of greens and fresh vegetables for a lunchtime feature. I loved the chickpea pesto burger here!It wasn’t a Portuguese menu really, it reminded me more of a quirky vegan café I’d visit in London, without the Hoxton pretention and attitude, of course. The prices in Floral and Fauna and The Green Room were very similar to Zenith, expensive but expected for the city and the level of food quality.

Dinner favourites include Tapa Bucho and Lupita pizzeria. The Tapa Bucho is a beloved tapas place near the city centre and probably the best Portuguese tapas I had during my time in Portugal. I particularly loved the garlic prawns and the potatoes bravas; and, the croquettes were like placing morsels of culinary heaven on the palette. I loved the service here as the staff were so kind and ensured we had everything we needed. The décor outside was simplistic and natural, surrounded by plants. The focus here was on quality foodrather than slick, expensive and on trend decor.

Lupita pizzeria was a random find but one of gold dust as the pizzas were authentic, thin and delicious – the way every Italian pizza should be.Being half-Italian, I’m quite fussy about my pizzas!The pizzas varied in prices, from £8-£12 and the service was quick. The décor wasn’t much to go by with minimalist stalls and tables.But, when the pizza is this good who cares about décor!

Tapa Bucho was incredibly affordable as we got a lot of good quality food and drink for around £35. The place was buzzing with lots of tourists, and we sat outside on the balcony, taking in the fresh, salty, moist Lisbon evening air.It was as if the city and Nature were flirting with you. I could make out the tops of other rugged and classic Lisbon buildings, homes and hotels through the copious shrubbery up on the balcony.

Dessert and ice cream are a must in the city, with plenty of options available. I had to try the claimed ‘best chocolate cake in the world’ at Cafe Landeau Chocolate (opened in 2010) in LX Factory. This cake, made from a family recipe, was scrumptious; a combination of chocolate mousse and cake with a rich and sumptuous taste, leaving me wanting more of the Landeau Chocolate cake (costing around 4 euro for a slice). In Lisbon, even the desserts get you hot and bothered! The café only offered an array of beverages to go with the cake, such as tea and coffee. Cafe Landeau Chocolate’s décor reminded me of sitting in someone’s dining room or lounge with their quirky yet homely interior. For those more in to ice cream, gelato across the city is of top quality at Pastelaria Santo Antomino and Gelato Therapy. Gelato Therapy is a chain and Pastelaria Santo Antomino, a standalone eatery.

The creamiest and flavoursome gelato is in metal containers, and at those two gelaterias the ice creams lived up to high expectation. Gelato stored in metal containers is usually better quality as it’s kept at the right temperature.I enjoyed the delicate flavours of chocolate, hazelnut, banana and more. 

Whilst food is ranked high in the city for many reasons, nightlife is prevalent across Lisbon with the array of bars and clubs available to explore. I’m not a massive fan of partying or drinking but I couldn’t resist seeing what the bars are all about. Topo is a rooftop bar with electric energy(you’re moving and swaying almost as soon as you walk), making you want to dance as you chat to loud (although I was too busy chatting and taking in the views of the old buildings and residential side of the city) dance and R&B tunes. Dudes who don’t want to dance can hang out in the retro gaming area and couples or hook-ups moving in for a kiss can head to the balcony to enjoy the gorgeous view of the city (It’s a lovely spot for a romantic drink).The gaming area is a room filled with all the retro-style arcade machines where you can play old-school games like Super Mario. I was surprised to know that the venue lacked a DJ. I think adding a good DJ would enhance the atmosphere even more.A machine can’t sense the crowd’s mood and energy.The bar was completely packed as most of the booths and seats were filled and by the looks of it, it’s a popular bar for locals and tourists. It wasn’t an over-the-top place, people weren’t trying too hard to flaunt and there were none of the affectations of a London bar, which was refreshing. People weren’t trying hard to be sexy…which was kind of sexy.In terms of pricing, it depends on what you get, beers can be around £2, whilst cocktails around £10.

That’s Lisbon in a nutshell for me. It’s extraordinary how revisiting a city brings a level of familiarity but also a renewed sense of curiosity to discover what you haven’t seen or learned before. Lisbon has a tendency to trigger a domino effect of curiosity, constantly offering something new, leaving you wanting more. It’s a city to fall in lust with and love all over again from one visit to the next. Till, the next time for the haven of trams, quality food and hilly, cobbled roads.Maybe next time I’ll even have a cold shower and visit some of the museums!