Welcome to Pai

Nestled in northern Thailand’s mountains is a little village called Pai. I first visited Pai in 2019 while travelling with my then boyfriend. We ended up staying for almost two weeks because we loved it so much. As soon as you arrive and step off the bus you can feel the village’s relaxed, mellow energy. I didn’t think I’d ever return to this place but three years later, while solo travelling around South East Asia, Pai unexpectedly called me back. Upon my return I already planned on staying for a while, however now that I’m here and settling in I have decided to stay for at least six more months. After four months of backpacking through Thailand and Bali I was craving a home to root down in longer than just a couple of weeks. With proper stability in mind my desire was to find somewhere affordable, immersed in nature, relaxed and with a creative community to connect with. Turns out Pai matches my list perfectly!

I highly recommend visiting Pai if you’re travelling through Thailand, particularly if you begin your journey in Bangkok as it’s easy to get to. All you need to do is hop on a bus to Chiang Mai and then take a bike or minivan through the mountains to Pai. The journey to Chiang Mai is around eight hours on the bus. Depending on which one you book with, they’re often air conditioned but don’t expect luxury. Online you’ll find tickets for this bus journey available for between £15 to £25. You’ll want to stay in Chiang Mai city for at least one night before making the final journey to Pai. It’s a three to four hour drive through gorgeous forests and mountains to get to the village. Word of warning: if you’re not a fan of curvy roads then be prepared for a wobbly belly. The minivan to Pai from Chiang Mai only costs around £5 and can be booked online or at the Chiang Mai bus station. As minivans go it is fairly comfortable and specifically organised to move tourists from the city into Pai centre with hourly transits available.

Compared to how I remember Pai three years ago, pre-pandemic, this village hasn’t changed much. Unfortunately, some places have shut down due to covid, but that was to be expected. Otherwise, the main difference is that it’s much less busy, which I consider a pleasant thing. There may not be a huge amount of tourists but there are plenty of settlers here. There are so many artists here, both locals and settlers, with quirky and colourful personalities and appearances. A really intimate and rich community inhibits these mountains and it’s no surprise travellers love to swing by for a relaxed week or two (or, like many, just end up living here as well). Something I adore about Pai is how integrated the local people, expats and travellers are. In my experience travelling around South East Asia I have found that many popular tourist destinations tend to have a clear divide between the locals and non-locals which often makes me feel uncomfortable. Here this isn’t the case and you can really feel the closeness of the community. Just going to a bar and watching a live show gives one the chance to observe the dynamics and friendly banter between the musicians, the audience and bar owners,  all sharing a love for Pai. From my previous visit in 2019, and my more recent explorations of Pai, I have discovered an abundance of lovely spots to check out. So, if you’re curious about Pai, read on and spark that interest all the brighter!

First stop is Walking Street, literally. This is where the bus will drop you off, giving you an instant taste of the main street vibe. Here is the most ‘touristy’ part of town where travellers can find plenty of cheap street food, clothing shops, tattoo parlours, restaurants and cafes. Most of this stuff is available on stalls which appear in the evening from about 6pm. You’ll find delicious and authentic Thai street food like meat skewers, roti, sushi, waffles, smoothies and much more. If you’re a coconut lover then the coconut mini- pancakes are a must! They don’t look like much, but those chewy buggers are absolutely mouth-watering and a total steal at just 20 TBH for four. On Walking Street you can expect to pay around 120 TBH for a meal, smoothie and a cheap desert (go for the pancakes!).There are also stalls that sell different kinds of jewellery, crystals, vintage clothes, art pieces and all sorts of bits and bobs to admire. A nice typical evening on Walking Street for me would look like grabbing some mango sticky rice from a stall to devour in front of some live music and then possibly ending the night with a hot cup of traditional Indian chai tea.

I think what many people are drawn to Pai for is the incredible scenic nature. The village is situated in a valley surrounded by the most gorgeous forest covered mountains hiding a number of waterfalls, hot springs, caves and treks! For a killer view I recommend taking a bike and scooting through the mountains to find a place called Two Huts. From this serene spot you can kick back with a smoothie and take in the incredible view. I like to find a good viewpoint and take a sketchbook to draw and appreciate the scene in front of me. Even just driving through the mountains with no destination is a typical Pai endeavour which will fill you up with awe at the green all around. A word of warning when exploring the mountains: be weary of flooding when the rains are pouring (by golly do they pour!). It’s sometimes worth asking a local if your destination could be dangerous to reach in rainy times.

A must-visit spot is Pai’s canyon which is around a 20 minute bike ride out of town. This is a cool spot to hike around with beautiful panoramic views to marvel at. As someone scared of heights I do struggle to explore some parts of the canyon as the drops are so steep, but if you’re braver than me there’s so much to explore. I recommend coming here either at sunset or sunrise to be treated to some stunning sky views all around you. It’s super silent early in the morning with only the sound of birds and the breeze in the trees. If you’re into meditation then this is the perfect place to feel truly harmonious with the natural world in its stillness and quiet. Be sure to take your camera because it’s a prime place for some gorgeous photos!

I wouldn’t class Pai as a party place as there are no clubs, however there certainly is some cracking nightlife. Every night of the week there is live music from smooth jazz to up-beat acoustic to immersive soundscapes. There is also a whole road of popping bars to bop around just off the end of Walking Street. With cannabis now legal all over Thailand, smokers are in luck as it can be found for sale at many bars and shops. Thailand is generally a very relaxed and cannabis-appreciating country and I reckon Pai is Thailand’s stoner capital for both the locals, backpackers and expats. All venues I have listed below have cannabis available.

If you want a sociable and lively atmosphere then Spirit Bar is a cool, colourful place to check out in the evening. It’s located on Walking Street but pretty easy to miss so look out for the sign. The bar is right at the end of a long alleyway which has been decorated with UV paint to light up your way in the night. Spirit Bar hosts local musicians every single night. The staff are super- friendly and you can really feel that they enjoy their work, frequently dancing to the music behind the bar. The sense of the Pai community spirit can truly be felt here. The environment they have created is something special and lounging around in their cosy space under the cool UV painted walls is such a vibe. They have a great range of cocktails and other drinks to try out at not too bad of a price. Definitely reserve at least one evening of your visit for an evening at Spirit Bar.

The Good Life Datcha is a cosy, quickly place hidden away from the town centre. It’s a pretty diverse attraction serving as a restaurant, bungalow accommodation, a workshop space and more. On weekends a small local market and live music can be found outside The Good Life Datcha where sellers have second hand clothes, handmade jewellery, homemade foods and items on offer. This is a great opportunity to connect with local people and support their businesses and charities. You can find events at Good Life Datcha like free morning meditations, ecstatic dance evenings and jam sessions. They have a small library you can nosey through on a rainy day with a cup of kombucha and a slice of freshly baked cake from their cafe. The food they serve and sell promote natural eating and healthy living. You can buy all sorts of different herbal teas, tonics and nibbles! They even have a herbal steam sauna and ice bath available for 100 TBH. It looks pretty small from the outside but don’t be misled by this appearance. There are plenty of cute nooks to chill out in so I suggest exploring round the back past the cafe to find a snug seat. Lots of interesting people are attracted to Good Life Datcha. Musicians, locals, backpackers as well as older expats who have lived in Pai for a long time. One man I met at the cafe as I was sipping on a coconut has lived here for several years and was known in Pai as the ‘Cannabis King’. It turns out this man was full of knowledge about the plant, not just as something to smoke and get high from but also its extensive history and uses as a valuable plastic-replacing material. I was blown away by the weed wisdom this ‘Cannabis King’ was imparting to me. I suggested he hold some kind of educational workshop at the venue but, unfortunately, he didn’t seem overly excited by the suggestion. It seems the older, long-term settlers of Pai just want to relax and smoke these days and I really don’t blame them. If you’re ever in Pai give The Good Life Datcha a little Google search and find the time to visit this quaint place.

For an upbeat evening a popular place to enjoy live music at is Jazz House which can be found on a road just off Walking Street. It’s such a pretty venue with cushioned seats and hammocks available to rest and enjoy the regular musicians who come and sing their hearts out each night. If you’re a musician yourself Jazz House also hosts open mic nights once a week allowing anyone and everyone to take the stage and share their talents! Since Pai tends to attract such interesting people the performances can be pretty unique. One open mic performance was a man playing a space drum while two women danced together on the stage, so beautiful! The prices here aren’t super cheap but you’re paying for the drinks, great vibes and live music too.

My final recommendation for some seriously good vibes is one for the chai lovers. The small and incredibly cosy Art Chai Cafe is located behind Walking Street, making it very easy to miss for tourists and therefore an often empty and calm place to chill out. This place definitely lives up to their name when it comes to their fresh, homemade and flavoursome chai. It’s the best I’ve had by far! Live music can frequently be enjoyed at Art Chai Cafe, normally acoustic sets from local musicians. Its small size is intimate and you’re bound to pick up an interesting conversation with someone in this cute little space. I went to Art Chai cafe with a friend one evening with some paints and paper. We had a lovely evening listening to a local acoustic duo covering rock classics, painting mandalas and sipping on their delicious hot chai. A man sat on the table next to us showed appreciation of our paintings and ended up showing us photos on his phone of his own creations. They were bright, psychedelic acrylic pieces, very detailed and very trippy. The owner of Art Chai Cafe is a super-friendly local man with face piercings and cool tattoos. He is also an incredible artist and his stunning paintings and creations deck out the cafe. He’s produced gorgeous large murals that cover walls, adorable hand crafted decor hanging from the ceilings and the interior design shows his attention to detail. It all creates a really pleasant environment to soak up during your visit.

There are many options for accommodation in Pai, from calm river-side bungalows to sociable hostels. I find my stays on booking.com, however you can use a multitude of online options such as hostel world, AirBnb and even Facebook to find somewhere to sleep. Word of mouth is also a great option to locate your stay by asking other travellers where they recommend.

When I first landed in Pai I stayed at a hostel called Tribal. If what you’re after is some place sociable and fun but also relaxed and not too busy then Tribal could be a great fit for you. It’s in the village and only a 20 minute walk to Walking Street and a much faster bike ride. This cheap accommodation has a dorm, rooms and bungalows available. It’s on a large, green piece of land with pond and a really cute wooden structure in the middle where people connect. Here you can hang out, order drinks, play music and even a game of pool. I stayed in the dorm here and met some really cool people! It was the perfect first place for me to stay to be greeted by kind faces and a calm environment. The dorm was pretty comfortable, nothing fancy. You can rent a bike from this hostel, which is always a plus! There’s also a few really adorable dogs that live at Tribal who might follow you around if they like you. Generally Tribal is known to be a good hang-out place and sometimes at weekends people from outside the hostel come by to enjoy the pool table and bar.

Somewhere farther into the mountains is a gorgeous budget-friendly accommodation called Chilling Hill Guesthouse. Although it is situated up in the mountains it is also only a 20 minute walk to town. Also, there are some great restaurants, shops and cafes right on the doorstep so you don’t even have to go into the village to get food and drink. This simple and small guesthouse offers an incredible view and also free coffee! If you want somewhere very calm, quiet and comfortable then this is your place. There are hammocks to doze off in and a great space in front of the mountain view where you can do some morning yoga. Here you can book a bed in a small dorm, a room or a bungalow. The room I lived in was small, simple, clean and comfortable. The guesthouse is nothing fancy with no frills, yet it offered me everything I needed and more (hello free coffee). There is also a kitchen available for you to cook in. During my stay there I loved waking up early, getting a cup of coffee and journalling with the lush view of Pai in front of me. It was so peaceful and pretty. The owner and staff are also lovely and kind women who greeted me with a smile everyday and made me feel very welcome.

Pai has plenty of cheap local restaurants everywhere. You can get a Pad Thai for around 40 TBH on average which comes to around £1. I very much enjoyed a pineapple fried rice plate at a local restaurant called Two Sisters. It’s a small joint in the mountains ran by a kind family with a simple Thai menu. My dinner was 50 TBH and I even received a free fruit salad, which was such a sweet addition to the meal!

For the vegans out there I think Bom Bowls is a smashing option. The space is cosy with nice seating and a cute aesthetic. If you climb the stairs up to their second floor you can enjoy your order with a stunning Pai view as this cafe is accessed across the river in the mountains. They are most known for their smoothie bowels and I have to give a loud shout-out to their mouth- watering Snickers bowl. It is as good as it sounds! The pricing pretty good considering the quality of the food and the great views with the bowls going for 100 TBH each. They also offer a delicious range of vegan pancakes, salads, ice cream and typical Thai meals.

Hidden within the village is my favourite place to eat and drink: Om Garden. Here they serve meals and drinks for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It’s a pretty popular place and rightfully so! This adorable spot doesn’t look like much on the outside but on the inside is like some kind of a fairy jungle paradise. You’re completely immersed in nature here. One morning I was causally sipping on my coffee and a huge lizard suddenly fell out of a tree and plonked onto the ground in front of me. Om Garden is slightly on the pricier end with meals mostly priced over 100 TBH. However, the food is healthy, nutritious, delicious and in my opinion totally worth it. They have a range of foods from both Thai and Western culture, from Americano coffees to carrot and beetroot smoothies, rice dishes to burgers. At Om Garden I have enjoyed a super delicious hot coconut porridge which came with a decent amount of fresh fruit on top. My last lunchtime meal there was their fish fillet with coconut rice and avocado plate which was just as yummy as it sounds!

Sometimes it’s nice to give back when you travel, so I wanted to involve a project that travellers often contribute to here in Pai. Sadly an issue in Thailand is the wellbeing of stray dogs that roam the street. It’s common for people to temporarily settle in Pai, adopt a dog and then abandon them when they decide to pack up and move on. At Pete’s Mission dogs are rescued, treated, loved and re-homed. It’s a dog rescue shelter located outside of the village, just a short bike ride of 20 minute walk away from the centre. Pete’s Mission is open for anyone to visit and give the dogs some love by taking them out on walks through the mountains and give the furry guys plenty of head and tummy rubs. The founder, Ryan, is a settler from Australia and dedicates his life to vulnerable pups. If you have the time to show Pete’s Mission some support, whether that’s by donation or visiting to give the dogs some attention, please do!

Due to its small size, driving a scooter is not a must if you want to get around Pai town and see some nearby nature. However, if you want to venture outside of the village to visit more natural beauty (and I recommend that you do) then a scooter is definitely necessary. If you decide to drive a scooter and it is your first time on a bike then I highly advise taking it slow and steady. Although the roads in Pai are well constructed and maintained and there isn’t much traffic, crashes still happen when tourists get a bit too excited on their bikes. It’s fun to ride fast but it’s just not worth the results if something goes wrong.

I also want to mention the elephants available for tourists in Pai. You can find them in the mountains by the roadside in small shelters and often chained to the ground. In my personal opinion, from what I can see, these are not ethical places and I don’t recommend supporting them by paying for any time with the elephants. This isn’t to say Thailand doesn’t have ethical elephant sanctuaries, it’s just that the ones I have come across in Pai have always made me feel sad as the animals are mistreated and clearly unhappy.

My final word of warning is regarding cannabis and mushroom intake. It’s very easy to get your hands on such substances however many people don’t know their limits and end up having pretty bad experiences. Specifically with the weed edibles and mushrooms. If this is something you want to experience then I recommend doing your research on what you’re taking and how much of the substance is in a weed brownie or mushroom milkshake to avoid a bad trip. Otherwise, have fun my friends!